Lost power to drivers door functions - need diagram

[BobsYourUncle]

TV in sig, 2007 Classic GMC 3500 dually, 326,000 kilometres, over 200,000 miles on it.

I have lost power to most everything in my drivers door.

The only thing I can do is control the drivers side mirror only. Can't control passenger side. And the speaker works.

Everything else is dead. No window control, no door locks, no in door light when I open the door, nothing. No remote lock / unlock of drivers door.
The sensors that detect the door being open are dead,
My alarm system notifies me the door is open when it isn't.
The dome light was staying on and I could only use the dash button to turn it off. Today the dome light is off on its own, but won't come on when I open the door.
Yesterday when this whole condition started, the key in ignition chime would sound with the door shut. Today it doesn't.

I need to find a wiring diagram that shows the door circuits and where they all go etc. Need to read it and learn where the power comes from and where it goes in the door so I can trace it, probe it to find a break.

Without overlooking the simple, I don't believe that each door electrics is fused individually. I think that if you lose power to the windows or door locks, it's all or nothing. I could be wrong.
The passenger side door controls work fine.

I strongly suspect that there may be a break in the power feed wire to the door electrics. And I suspect it may be inside the rubber tunnel that goes from the body to the door. Reason I suspect this is that the truck is 10 years and 4 months old and in constant use. Doing a little simple math estimating the door opens and closes at least ten times a day, likely a lot more, indicates that the door has opened and closed 40 to 50 thousand times in its life so far.
This means that rubber thing with a mittful of wires has seen enough flexing to perhaps cause a wire to break and lose contact.

Anyone here up on or familiar with the electrics of a truck like mine?

In my younger years I have rebuilt wiring in old cars, troubleshot many many wiring problems and fixed them so I'm no stranger to this.

But I do know and understand that with the computer controlled everything, there are single wires that will feed a number of circuits depending on impedance, load, voltage etc.

If anyone knows where I can either download or just view a schematic, I'd appreciate that info, thanks.

Also, anyone know if the door harness is modular? That is, does it plug in to the main harness or terminal block so it can be removed for replacement or repair. I may have to pull it out to chase the power wire to locate a break.

Sorry for the short novel...:B more info is better!

[BobsYourUncle]

westend wrote:
You know what works really good in those door boots for the wires flexing--warm butter. :B

ROFLMAO!!! :B
I'll never live the "butter incident" down! I still laugh whenever one of you guys ribs me about it!

[BobsYourUncle]

MFL wrote:
Thanks for the update Bob!!

Yes, you are obviously a handy guy, capable of fixing many things! I have enjoyed reading many of your posts. Like your sense of humor, even when you have things going wrong.

Jerry

Thanks Jerry
🙂

[westend]

You know what works really good in those door boots for the wires flexing--warm butter. :B

[drsteve]

$466. And it has to be ordered in from Pluto or some place. I thanked the helpful parts guy and declined.

They don't carry it in the warehouse because nobody buys one, they just fix it like you did. Nice job! Thanks for letting us know how it turned out.

[MFL]

Thanks for the update Bob!!

Yes, you are obviously a handy guy, capable of fixing many things! I have enjoyed reading many of your posts. Like your sense of humor, even when you have things going wrong.

Jerry

[BobsYourUncle]

*Update on problem:

It was so blinkin cold here that I really didn't feel like diving into it and freezing my a...a.. Adam's apple off.:B

But with a recent chinook most of our snow is gone and it's nearly T shirt weather.

I tried the battery disconnect thing. Didn't do anything. Was going to try the extra ground but didn't do it.

Had some time today and I pulled apart the boot that goes from the door to the body.
Not a lot of room in there but I managed to tear away the black tape wrapping and expose the wires. I found one brown wire completely severed from flexing wear. 3 other wires are partially broken, the insulation is cracked and bare wire exposed.

I got about a 2 inch piece of 18 ga wire and made a bandaid splice to the broken wire. Twisted it together and taped everything up.

Tried it out and I have all my electrical back again. 🙂 Yahoo!

Went to the dealer today for an oil change and fuel filter and while I was waiting I asked at the parts dept how much for the door harness. $466. And it has to be ordered in from Pluto or some place. I thanked the helpful parts guy and declined.

So I have the problem nailed down. It will work with the bandaid fix for a short while but I must pull the harness out and properly solder and shrink tube in several splices.
Going to do the splices in the door with about a ten inch piece going into the body. That way the joints will not be inside the flex boot.

Cheap fix, it'll just take a few hours of my time to do it.
Sure glad I have spent my adult life fixing stuff and know how to do this.

Thanks to everyone for your input and wonderful suggestions!
🙂

[drsteve]

Sure was a lot easier to figure out and work on!

Yes, I remember tuneups every 15,000 miles, trying to get the dwell angle and the timing just right, and dialing in finicky carburetors, not to mention replacing the entire car when it reached 100,000 miles. All you need to figure out today's vehicles is an inexpensive code reader, or a trip to any parts store, where they will read the codes for you, then you search the internet for the code, and there you have it.

[Canadian_Rainbi]

BobsYourUncle wrote:
All this computer stuff and the complication of it all.....
I remember all the years of turning wrenches on the 60's cars!! Sure was a lot easier to figure out and work on!

And the radios, TVs etc had tubes, resistors and capacitors that were not only big enough to hold and replace, they were big enough to see!

[BobsYourUncle]

All this computer stuff and the complication of it all.....
I remember all the years of turning wrenches on the 60's cars!! Sure was a lot easier to figure out and work on!

[mobeewan]

I have a 2003 Silverado K1500 extended cab. Left door switch module failed completely about 2 years ago. Ordered new one from dealer was over $150 IIRC. They said it would also cost over $100 to reprogram it for remote entry. Replaced it myself and everything was working again including the remote entry key fobs.

I think the remote entry may work through the right side door module.

As for the fobs, I had to replace one this past fall. It was the one used most often and was failing to lock and unlock doors part of the time. Got a new one at Ace Hardware with instructions for resynchronizing the new fob. Only problem was the other fob stopped working. However, figured out all fobs old and new, must be resynchronized at the same time.

Don't know if the dealer lied about reprogramming the remote entry to make more money off me or if it actually needs to be done when replacing the right side module. May have to do with the vehicle computer.

[drsteve]

Google search indicated that the most common cause of this is the switch module, followed by a broken wire.
Good luck.

[schlep1967]

I would be focusing on the bend point in the wires going from the truck to the door. Disconnect the battery and do some continuity checks on those wires from one end to the other. The intermittent failures you are seeing would match a broken wire at the bend point. One time there is enough connection and the next there is not.

[Lantley]

I believe I have the same truck and had the same problem a few years ago.
My entire switch module got wet during a heavy rain. I was camping trying to get parked in a downpour. I was trying to avoid getting the entire combo stuck in the mud. Drivers door was open during the downpour allowing switch module to get wet I digress....
Anyway entire switch module had to be replaced. $250.00 or so for the part..ouch

[BobsYourUncle]

Thanks for the help guys.
I'll try the battery disconnect thing, it's a he cheapest! Along with the extra ground.
I doubt it's the switches becaus it all failed at the same time. However, if the power goes to one switch before the others it could be a continuity problem.
I'll have to get in there with a probe on the hot side of the switches to see.
If I had a schematic I hat would help. Maybe I could stop by a dealer and get a copy.

Thanks