Lube a fresh water drain valve?

[desertmoose]

We just picked up an older trailer. It's a 97 model. While going thru it, I disinfected the water system with the added bleach approach.

Last night, I went to drain the fresh water tank. The drain valve is accessed by removing the dinette seat board. The valve is attached directly to the bottom of the tank with a hose extending thru the floor. The valve is a molded white plastic with a L shaped turn handle.

Trying to turn the valve, I was sure I was about to break the handle off. It's real hard to turn. I only got it to turn about 90* before I stopped in fear of busting the handle right off. The water is just barely dripping from the discharge hose.

So, it will drain eventually, but I want it to work right. Short of lifting the tank and putting a new valve in, is there any fresh water safe lube I could apply that will get into the valve, free it up, and not degrade the plastic?

I considered a spray silicone, but if it gets into the valve, but would it probably get into the water tank also?

Thanks, Sam

[ernie1]

If you use plumbers grease, make darn sure it's silicone and not petroleum based. I've seen them sold both ways.

[John_Joey]

desertmoose wrote:
I considered a spray silicone, but if it gets into the valve, but would it probably get into the water tank also?

Thanks, Sam

That's what I do. If it could get into the water then you would have a leaky drain since water would be coming out the same way the silicone would get in.

The real answer is if you can take the drain apart after a little silicone, then use some plumbers grease on the O ring.

[bucky]

Great thinking on the olive oil.

[desertmoose]

Well, when I got home, there stil was over a half tank of bleach water.
Got a small paint brush and a bit of olive oil. Painted around the joint on the valve several times. then carefully worked it back and forth on the 90* arc it would turn. Then suddenly it gave a pop and went further. I ended up being able to open it 180* to full drain.

Not sure how long it will work before the olive oil gets gummy and sticks it together again, but at least it's working while I get the rest of the trailer going.

Sam

[midnightsadie]

just for fun apply a little heat .

[desertmoose]

mrgreetis wrote:
If you are able to get it open could you just put a separate valve on the drain hose end? Or even a cap? Then you wouldn't need to mess with the tank plumbing.

Mike

Good idea. I'll take a look at the hose tonight. Then pray I can get it open without snapping the handle off at a not open or closed position.....

Of course, that would answer the question of pulling the tank or not.

Sam

[mrgreetis]

If you are able to get it open could you just put a separate valve on the drain hose end? Or even a cap? Then you wouldn't need to mess with the tank plumbing.

Mike

[desertmoose]

Joe417 wrote:
I had the same problem.

New valve was $3.50 on ebay. Special lubricant probably cost as much.

That's probably what I'll end up doing. Biggest concern is to remove and replace the drain valve, I have to pull the tank.... which might end up with a leak from the fill and supply connections when reinstalling.

hate to disturb any connections that aren't leaking on a 19 year old trailer....

I was hoping there was a way to fix it without pulling the tank.

Sam

[Joe417]

I had the same problem.

New valve was $3.50 on ebay. Special lubricant probably cost as much.

[joshuajim]

plumbers grease. Available at any home center.

[schlep1967]

Not sure if it the best route to go but you can buy food grade silicone spray. Linky

I would not put any petroleum based lube products on it.

[midnightsadie]

see if the valve can be taken apart . most liklely not, see if its threaded on? or enough room to cut off glue new one on. I might be a quarter turn valve only goes a quarter of the way , put the garden hose on it blow backwards. ok just some things to try. good luck.