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Lug nuts seized, they have caps!!

raroberts
Explorer
Explorer
a little over two years ago I replaced my steel, rusting, trailer wheels with new aluminum wheels. The lug nuts were rusting too, so I bought the good ones (I thought) that were stainless steel. I had a blowout while on a trip and when I tried to take the nuts off one of them was very tight. I put a pipe over my breaker bar to make a long lever and the nut stripped (I thought). After many tries I finally pounded a smaller socket on the nut with a hammer and got the nut off. Upon inspecting the nut I was surprised to realized the nuts had a cap over the nut and it was the cap that was sliding over the nut. I looked at the rest of the nuts and the caps were all loose. I am posting this for you information,,take a look at your lug nuts the next time you take yours off. You do not want to be put in the same situation I was. I think I was very lucky to be able to get that nut off. Get solid nuts.

I do have a question. Does anyone know of a website that has good prices on good nuts? I need 48 of them.
08 F450 4X4 Lariat
07 Stellar 37' 5W Toyhauler
95 XR600R
03 XR400
07 660 Rhino
75 Z1B
27 REPLIES 27

Airstreamer67
Explorer
Explorer
I use a torque wrench on my vehicles and trailers, and I lube the nuts and studs too, with engine oil or grease. I derate the torque values by 30% because of the lube factor.

I've never had a stuck nut or one too loose in all the years I've been doing this. Prior to that, I sometimes had a difficult time removing rusted, screeching lug nuts. No more.

John_Joey
Explorer
Explorer
X2 on it's not over kill. My old 460 F53 was known for breaking studs because of over ambitious (built like bull) tire monkeys.
Thereโ€™s no fool, like an old fool.

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
It's not overkill, I do the same thing. I have a bending beam torque wrench that lives under the rear seat of the truck. Also an extension so I can get to the lug nuts on the dually wheels. They're going to be tightened by hand anyway so it's no big deal to use a torque wrench instead of a breaker bar.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

Tachdriver
Explorer
Explorer
RJsfishin wrote:
The question was to lube or not. Over tightening is another topic.
Come on you ole timers,...........do you really use a "tork" wrench on lug nuts ?? Head bolts, and valve bodies yes, but when the day comes where I loose the "feel" of tightening a lug nut (w/ or w/o lube) short of stretching it, just put me 6'under !


I use and keep a torque wrench in the truck specifically the trailer. I know, I know its overkill but I have made it so convenient that there is no excuse.

The reason I use it is that I cannot tell when the nuts are tight enough. I remember taking wheels off my truck to do a brake job and the nuts were so tight it took a six foot breaker bar, 3 grown men and a Chihuahua to remove it. :B

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
How many people know when to say when ?

When a lug nut cannot be spun down with the fingers (well, almost)?

Then go out and buy (32?) new lug nuts? Price lug nuts lately?

Special TORQUE SENSING extension adapters are used these days not a torque wrench.

Use lug nuts dry on dry threads down here and you are looking at 32 broken studs inside a year's time. Tropical salt air is m-e-a-n. Starting with new lugs on good threads (able to almost spin down with the fingers) if the nuts ever start to back off (without being corroded) harder, then you're doing something el wrongo.

Years ago I purchased a 12 volt INERTIA TYPE impact wrench from Harbor Fright. I set the digital LED torque to 80 lbs and then finish tightening with a 38" breaker bar and torque limiting extension.

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
The question was to lube or not. Over tightening is another topic.
Come on you ole timers,...........do you really use a "tork" wrench on lug nuts ?? Head bolts, and valve bodies yes, but when the day comes where I loose the "feel" of tightening a lug nut (w/ or w/o lube) short of stretching it, just put me 6'under !
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

Stranger
Explorer
Explorer
A Prius has enough poop to loosen wet lug nuts?
Who'da thunk it? :B
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving
safely in one pretty and well preserved piece, but to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out and defiantly shouting "Wow, what a ride!".
2012 Mesa Ridge 345RLS
2002 RAM 3500

sum1
Explorer
Explorer
RJsfishin wrote:
Yeah, like an owners manual knows everything !!
I have never heard of even one who had nuts come loose from never seize.
Yup. What RJ said. I always use it on the taper, as well. Reduces galling. And as others have said, do not let some idiot "sock'em down good" with all the power his impact can give.

hammer21661
Explorer
Explorer
bucky wrote:
I always use Deese Nuts.
Grow up.
2018 Ram 3500 SRW crew cab long bed 4x4 diesel Lariamie 1-2018
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2000 Yellow Lab mix Dog, Earl,The One who gave me Unconditional Love picked up 9-12 or 13, 2001 till 2-7-2014 may he r.i.p.

drsteve
Explorer
Explorer
beemerphile1 wrote:
Maybe not but I have seen ruined lugs that were stretched by over torquing. When a bolt is tightened it actually slightly stretches the bolt which creates the tension that keeps it tight.

If a bolt is lubed it is easy to over tighten. Once over tightened the bolt (lug) will fail due to being stretched to the point the elasticity of the metal is destroyed. Yes, I've seen it happen.

That is exactly right. I believe it is also the reason some manufacturers explicitly advise not using lube. I've found that keeping threads clean will avoid most problems. A wire brush works well. And, if you rotate TV tires regularly and service trailer bearings and brakes yearly, the nuts won't have time to freeze. ๐Ÿ™‚
2006 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab 2WD 6.0L 3.73 8600 GVWR
2018 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 223RBS
1991 Palomino Filly PUP

down_home
Explorer II
Explorer II
When buying wheels for heavy vehicles, all they make are wheels hub centric and use shoulder nuts. they heavy ones like our MHs use an attached washer. The manual says t lube the shoulder of the bolt but not under the washer.
I bought, new wheels for a car several years ago. they were supposed to use shoulder nuts with washers. They used cone nuts. The wheels didn't ride right. when I attempted to take them off, I found out. Over two hundred pounds of torque to remove them. Dealer replaced the wheels and nuts.
Hard to shop for the right nuts or wheels some times. The Dealers mostly want to sell the same Chinese junk, maybe with different labels even. Many don't even know what the fuss is about.

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
RJsfishin wrote:
Yeah, like an owners manual knows everything !!
I have never heard of even one who had nuts come loose from never seize.


Maybe not but I have seen ruined lugs that were stretched by over torquing. When a bolt is tightened it actually slightly stretches the bolt which creates the tension that keeps it tight.

If a bolt is lubed it is easy to over tighten. Once over tightened the bolt (lug) will fail due to being stretched to the point the elasticity of the metal is destroyed. Yes, I've seen it happen.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

Tachdriver
Explorer
Explorer
RJsfishin wrote:
Yeah, like an owners manual knows everything !!
I have never heard of even one who had nuts come loose from never seize.


Agreed, however the torque should be adjusted if you do use anti-seize. Engineers design and forward the specifications to the technical writers who write the operating/repair manuals. Then there are manuals that don't address whether you can you use it or not which can be quite frustrating.

bucky
Explorer II
Explorer II
I always use Deese Nuts.
Puma 30RKSS