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Mounting solar on rubber roof

Salvo
Explorer
Explorer
What's the best method in securing solar on a rubber roof trailer? This will be a flat install. Z-brackets are already ordered, but if there's something better...

It is for my son-in-law's new toy hauler.

Sal
23 REPLIES 23

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
we have a rubber roof over the OEM fiberglass
under the roof is plywood
finding rafters ? .. good luck
believe me use good roof sealant under the Z brackets screw them down
once it is dry nothing is coming loose
i have roof full panels, fasten down this way


click on picture to enlarge image
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

mena661
Explorer
Explorer
Salvo wrote:
Can you locate the rafters with a stud finder?
I was able to find them on my roof (rubber also).

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
Salvo wrote:
Can you locate the rafters with a stud finder?

With a good one - which I don't have - probably so. Located studs with a 50 cents rare-earth magnet and manufacturer's drawing. The drawing is nice to have as stud finders don't work well on wood rafters, especially when they are under 3/8" ply. With mere 1.5" rafter the stud finder won't locate the center accurately. Not important with 3 screws per bracket and flat install.

Salvo
Explorer
Explorer
Can you locate the rafters with a stud finder?

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
Yes, I keep posting it because it's true. Z-brackets are made for shore homes, to be installed permanently on the rails. In RV you need to be able to get under the panel for cleaning, and you WILL have to do a roof rubber replacement or re-coating at some point. With Z-bracket bolted into the panel frame bottom and #10 screws through the foot of the Z into plywood, the only way to remove the panel is to rip #10 screws out of the ply.

Use L-brackets instead. 1/8" aluminum angle 2x2, 3x3 or 4x4, 6" long. Drive two or three screws #10 into the ply, with plenty of roof sealant under the bracket and over the screw heads. One machine screw goes into the side of the panel frame at each corner, you might need stainless rivnuts (aka nutserts) in the frame if you can't get under the panel - 2x2 angle leaves about 1" gap. With 3x3 angle you can insert machine screw or clevis pin from either side, no rivnuts required.

Check installations by Mr.Wizard and Bigfootford in the link above.

Mr. Wiz used a double-sided sticky tape under the bracket because his roof is fiberglass, but on the rubber you need a roof sealant.

Short vertical "legs" of Bigfootford you don't need if you don't plan on tilting, though they are handy to raise the panel higher and to insert machine screws in the frame without using rivnuts.

To hit the rafters with #10 screws - you may try. Luckily 120v panels have - usually - 65" length and most rafters are on 16" centers, so this is possible. With a flat mount and 3 screws in each bracket I don't think this is necessary though. Roof normally has 1/2 or 3/8" OSB (kind of a particle board), or occasionally a real plywood. So you don't need screws longer than 1" if you don't hit the rafters. If yo do, you will need 2"-2.5" screws.

If your manufacturer is still in business, phone them and ask to email you the drawing of roof assembly where it shows rafters. Just tell them the truth that you are installing solar panel.

Slanted to drain the sand and water off - if you install panels lengthwise, with panels on the slopes, i.e. panel doesn't cover the crown of the roof, with brackets of the same height the panels will automatically become slanted.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Make an effort to have them a bit slanted to shed water.
See signature for mine. z brackets are probably better.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
ISTR Almot keeps posting that Z brackets are no good, you need L brackets or whatever they are.

If you have access while on the road, here is that members' installation examples collection

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25705772
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

hmknightnc
Explorer
Explorer
I always thought those single screw Z brackets were pretty iffy. I made my own using 1/8"x2" Aluminum Angle Iron 2" wide each. 2 SS screws into each at roof, drill 1/4" hole in side of solar panel frame and use 1/4" SS bolts to the angle iron.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi Sal,

I'd make ever effort to find the "rafters" and screw into them, using liberal amounts of dicor. That is how my panels are fastened. I used three screws per side with angle aluminum to "stiffen" the panels.

If it is a new unit the maker should be able to provide measurements for the rafter placement.

I hope your son is excited!
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.