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Need Good Sources for Quality Bulk Solar Cable

crcr
Explorer
Explorer
I'm building a solar system on our TT. I am going to buy my own MC4 connectors, crimpers, etc, and build my own custom length cables for connecting the roof solar panels to the roof combiner box.

I'm having trouble finding quality 10 gauge UV-resistant cooper (not copper clad aluminum) cable designed to attach MC4 connectors to, in say 50 ft lengths (or where it can be ordered by the foot). Anyone have good source(s) to recommend for this? Sometimes I find some cable that looks good initially, but then find one or more reviews that state that the cable they received was 12 gauge, not 10 gauge.

Another question -- I'm finding both 19 strand and 7 strand cables -- what are the pros and cons of each (I presume that 19 strand is more flexible), and which is designed to work well with MC4 connectors?

Thanks for any input!
34 REPLIES 34

Ed_Gee
Explorer
Explorer
crcr wrote:
ktmrfs wrote:
Ed_Gee wrote:
Recommend this place for high quality solar materials:
AM Solar


x2.


Thanks. Nice looking wire, but two problems with it -- that is 10 gauge -- I'm looking for 8 gauge as mentioned in my last post. And even at that, this 10 gauge roof wire is pricey at $3 a foot plus shipping!


OK, but in your original post you said you were looking for 10 ga.UV protected wire, which is what my link took you to.
P
Ed - on the Central Oregon coast
2018 Winnebago Fuse 23A
Scion xA toad

crcr
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
#10 is not big enough unless you are going to MPPT controller with a high voltage input. Even then you may wish to do #8 or #6.

Try Home Depot. You can select UV and gauge 6-2 or 8-2


Thanks. I'm using a PVM controller, so yeah, definitely want to run #8.

I already checked with my local Home Depot stores, and they do not stock UV resistant wire.

crcr
Explorer
Explorer
C Schomer wrote:
I redid my panel wiring last summer and I put any exposed wire in conduit. I also cut out all the plug connectors and crimped/soldered. One off those plugs easily pulled apart... Very poor internal crimp. Craig


What type of conduit did you use, plastic electrical?

crcr
Explorer
Explorer
BFL13 wrote:
crcr wrote:
BFL13 wrote:
I used ordinary #8 black and red, no UV. The red goes pink after a while if left exposed. I used plastic split wire sleeving over the exposed wires on the roof. No UV protection in that either AFAIK, but will replace when that deteriorates. If the 1991 RV outlasts that!


Thanks, yeah, I was considering doing just that! So you covered the wires with commonly available split wire loom?


Yes. I was able to pair the black and red #8s into one split loom from each panel. Can't remember size of loom , 1/2" ? Used Eternabond strips here and there to hold it down

A good lesson learned the hard way, is leave the panel pigtails to stick out past the panel when the panel is lying down. Now you can add your wire to that. It gets complicated if you have to add your wire to the panel first before laying it down, and then you can't get at it if your connection isn't connecting right.


Thanks. So what type of connections did you use from the pigtails?

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
#10 is not big enough unless you are going to MPPT controller with a high voltage input. Even then you may wish to do #8 or #6.

Try Home Depot. You can select UV and gauge 6-2 or 8-2
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

C_Schomer
Explorer
Explorer
I redid my panel wiring last summer and I put any exposed wire in conduit. I also cut out all the plug connectors and crimped/soldered. One off those plugs easily pulled apart... Very poor internal crimp. Craig
2012 Dodge 3500 DRW CCLB 4wd, custom hauler bed.
2008 Sunnybrook Titan 30 RKFS Morryde and Disc brakes
WILL ROGERS NEVER MET JOE BIDEN!

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
crcr wrote:
BFL13 wrote:
I used ordinary #8 black and red, no UV. The red goes pink after a while if left exposed. I used plastic split wire sleeving over the exposed wires on the roof. No UV protection in that either AFAIK, but will replace when that deteriorates. If the 1991 RV outlasts that!


Thanks, yeah, I was considering doing just that! So you covered the wires with commonly available split wire loom?


Yes. I was able to pair the black and red #8s into one split loom from each panel. Can't remember size of loom , 1/2" ? Used Eternabond strips here and there to hold it down

A good lesson learned the hard way, is leave the panel pigtails to stick out past the panel when the panel is lying down. Now you can add your wire to that. It gets complicated if you have to add your wire to the panel first before laying it down, and then you can't get at it if your connection isn't connecting right.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

crcr
Explorer
Explorer
BFL13 wrote:
I used ordinary #8 black and red, no UV. The red goes pink after a while if left exposed. I used plastic split wire sleeving over the exposed wires on the roof. No UV protection in that either AFAIK, but will replace when that deteriorates. If the 1991 RV outlasts that!


Thanks, yeah, I was considering doing just that! So you covered the wires with commonly available split wire loom?

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
I used ordinary #8 black and red, no UV. The red goes pink after a while if left exposed. I used plastic split wire sleeving over the exposed wires on the roof. No UV protection in that either AFAIK, but will replace when that deteriorates. If the 1991 RV outlasts that!
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

crcr
Explorer
Explorer
ktmrfs wrote:
Ed_Gee wrote:
Recommend this place for high quality solar materials:
AM Solar


x2.


Thanks. Nice looking wire, but two problems with it -- that is 10 gauge -- I'm looking for 8 gauge as mentioned in my last post. And even at that, this 10 gauge roof wire is pricey at $3 a foot plus shipping!

ktmrfs
Explorer
Explorer
Ed_Gee wrote:
Recommend this place for high quality solar materials:
AM Solar


x2.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

Lwiddis
Explorer
Explorer
10 gauge wouldn't be my choice for long runs. 7 feet is the max for 10 amps with a 2% drop WindyNation says at https://www.windynation.com/jzv/inf/choosing-right-wire-size
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

crcr
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for all your replies. Much appreciated.

I just got to looking at the wire leads with MC4 connectors on the solar panels I just bought, and I don't think the wire is even close to 10 gauge, seems smaller. So now I'm thinking that maybe I'll just un-solder those pigtails from the junction boxes on the solar panels and as someone here suggested, solder in my own wires to the combiner box. Therefore no MC4 connectors needed.

So if I do that, I'm thinking that I would prefer to just go to 8 gauge wire. But I'm having some difficulty finding 8 gauge UV resistant copper wire in bulk, say 50 ft rolls. Any suggestions as to where I could buy 8 gauge UV resistant copper stranded wire reasonably? I've checked on the sources mentioned, and so far didn't find any.

time2roll
Explorer II
Explorer II
I would buy some MC4 extension cables on amazon with connectors already attached. Cut in half with the connectors to the panel and the cut end in the combiner box.

Even better with panels in series and skip the connections in the box and pull the MC4 direct to the controller.

Tom_M1
Explorer
Explorer
If this is a permanent install you don't need connectors. Just wire direct from panel junction box to combiner box. Any connector will add a bit more resistance to your run. If connectors are needed, I would suggest using Anderson Powerpull SB50 connectors. The contacts can be crimped or soldered.

https://powerwerx.com/anderson-sb-connectors-sb50-50amp
Tom
2005 Born Free 24RB
170ah Renogy LiFePo4 drop-in battery 400 watts solar
Towing 2016 Mini Cooper convertible on tow dolly
Minneapolis, MN