New Turbo on - still sluggish on hills - fuel?

[Lar_s]

OK, took forever to locate and get a new turbo, had that installed, road tested with the computer and all seems well. Unfortunately, it's still sluggish on hills.

If you've followed this thread I've also got algae or bacteria growing in the tank, though you'd think with 0 and below temps they'd hibernate. I changed both fuel filters 100 miles ago and the fuel looks clean in the plastic see through cup, though when I changed them, the inside part of the filter contained a dark matter (bacteria ?) Could this be enough to make it really sluggish on hills? I charged the tank with biocide, though perhaps not enough. Should I recharge the tank and change to new filters?

I've also changed the air filter 100 miles ago. No black smoke out of the exhaust.

BTW, the turbo only had chips out of the cold side, the hot side looked good.

Advice please.

[C-Leigh_Racing]

You know, Airstreamer may be on to something. Take theses kids getting a diesel pickup, first thing they do is new exhaust & big air intake system, cause a diesel will suck up some air, way more than a gas engine, so check the filter & intake tubes to make sure they not getting sucked flat & restricting air flow.

I know an old Ford 7.3 diesel pickup, you let the filter get a little dirty & it will cause the intake tubes to suck flat when you rev the engine up.
Neil

[Lar_s]

Not sure on fuel system, sorry.

[dougmac]

Do you know if your ISL has a common rail or a caps fuel system? An '04 could have had either system.

[Airstreamer67]

Quote: "Agree with oil test. Maybe I can siphon some out and send it in."

The best time to send in the oil sample for analysis is when it is being changed after many miles on it. This will allow any problems to show up.

Best of luck with your problem.

By the way, if microbes are the reason for the power loss, it will probably show up as low fuel pressure. If you can get a fuel pressure gauge installed on your rig and compare the fuel pressure under load with design parameters, you will be able to tell if there is an obstruction in the system from the microbes or bad fuel pump or whatever.

[RayChez]

I also noticed loss of power on my 3126-E Caterpillar engine. I was wondering if maybe I had a exhaust leak because when I first start the coach I can here something like a tappet clicking or maybe an exhaust leak. I have been wondering how I can tell which it is.
I did change the fuel filter and the air filters when I got back from that trip. I have not used the coach since then so I am not sure if I got the power back. But I am still concerned about the clicking. It is hard to tell the difference between a lose tappet and an exhaust leak. Any thoughts on what to look for if it is a exhaust leak.

On a 7 percent grade about a mile long by the time I got to the top I was only doing 15 mph with the pedal to the medal.:S

[Lar_s]

No dino test yet. The air cleaner was really clogged because it had been in the body shop due to hitting a deer mid day in Alabama last winter.. I was not pleased to see all the crud and I'm pretty sure that was what caused the turbo problems, though I can't prove it.

Monday I'll see about the tank pull and cleaning. Still not sure about fuel polishing in this area. Weather isn't cooperating as far as changing filters and road testing right now.

Agree with oil test. Maybe I can siphon some out and send it in.

Thx

[CA_Traveler]

Bill.Satellite wrote:
I have struggled with that issue with a Detroit 8V92 DDEC I for too many years. I am sure it's a wiring issue as everything else has been checked and the engine was even replaced. No matter, I still have no power when it counts. Run down the road at 75 all day long....climb a hill at 25-40 MPH when I used to climb the hills and pass all the 18-wheelers!
Prevost will not help and Detroit will not help so we just keep plugging away at any suggestion from anyone anywhere hoping someone will trip over the actual solution.

Have you had it checked on a dynamometer to see if it shows up vs on a grade?

[Airstreamer67]

The wear on your replaced turbo could indicate a problem with the air cleaner, which could also produce wear on other engine parts such as rings, etc. and lead to reduced power levels. Such wear would show up on the cold side of the turbo, not the hot side.

I would make sure the air cleaner and its related tubing and connections are in good shape and not leaking. Also, an oil sample sent to Blackstone Labs at your next oil change can tell you of any such problems for about 30 bucks.

[Lar_s]

Still in the frozen 4' of snow north up here so moving slow on this project. I think it's probably right that I'll have to have the tank pulled, cleaned and re-installed. Don't think anybody up here does fuel polishing. The project continues.

Thx for all the imput.

[MM49]

When you have the bio problem in the tank cleaners will initially make the problem worse by loosening all the gunk up. The result will be the fuel pick of screen in the tank will clog. The growth is biological. Have the tank removed and steam cleaned. Do the same for the fuel sock assembly, fuel heater and pick up filters. Not an easy project.
MM49

[mpierce]

You can have a partially plugged or collapsed fuel line from the tank to the pump. Have you tried running another line?

[Happy_Prospecto]

Do yourself a favor and go to a Performance Diesel Shop that caters to the Light Truck/RV crowd. Tell them your problems and what you have done. Let them run your rig on a Dyno with their test equipment. At the very least your fuel tank should be dropped and cleaned and the fuel system checked by a pro instead of a guesser.

[Lar_s]

The boost was steady and strong on the road test with computer attached so think the gasket is OK.

Yeah, the turbo was $1530 and took 6 weeks to find one, that was the real bummer... well, the cost too.

I have the old turbo. Anyone know where I can sell it so someone else can have it rebuilt?

[C-Leigh_Racing]

Had a friend few years back, his diesel coach with Cummins was low on power. Went to a few shops & each time they would work on the injector pump & give it more fuel. It got to a point it smoked quite a bit, pulled pretty good, but would run hot in the summer time.
Finely he had enough & carried it to a Cummins shop, come to find out the intake gasket was blown & loosing boost so no wonder the engine was low on power.
Boy when he got it fixed, you talk about a diesel coach would carry you for a ride, was like riding in a car or pickup it had the pump turned up so much. Later he took it back & had the pump turned down a bit to keep from melting the exhaust manifolds.

Probably wouldnt hurt, to get the injector pump checked out, could be something simple as the fuel stop(engine cut off) not opening up all the way & restricting fuel.

Any of you diesel folks, know how to make a Cummins or Cat diesel run like a Detroit.
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Pull the engine stop about half way out, or until you feel the engine slowing down with your foot on the gas pedal flat on the floor & it will run just like a Detroit.
Neil