Norcold N611 Fridge 5 flashes

[holdn2aces]

Norcold N611 triggers trouble code 5 flashes, I reset it and 4-6 hrs later same code is displayed. I reflash the board and again it runs for 4-6 hrs code displays again. The freezer works very well,it can make ice cubes if I continue to reset it within resonable time. Is the board faulty or the controls, I am at a loss.

[dougrainer]

holdn2aces wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

holdn2aces wrote:
Doug, this unit is in a Jayco 30JTX, the reefer is not in the slide portion. I have investicated more and was going to try the suggestion you proposed next weekend when I get back to my trailer. I do not have an amp meter to test how many amps the heater is drawing but will try to get one for next weekend to confirm if the heater is within spec. Do the control boards go on these often?

Amp meter is not needed. The Heat element either works or it does NOT. So, if it gets hot it is working. Control board failure is not that common. Doug

Went to my RV this weekend and forgot some tools at home to bypass board by connecting heater direct to AC. What I did do was disconnect the AC and ran the fridge on Gas. After several hours the fridge stopped and trouble code 5 flashes was displayed. The fridge and freezer were at operating temprature when it tripped the code. I tried to restart it by cycling the switch with no luck, I then tried to reflash (AC Disconnected)the board as I have done several times before with no luck, I then disconnected the 12 volt + connector and reconnected it right away and the it tripped the board as if I had reflashed it. I decided at that point to run it on AC and save my Gas. After 40 minutes I touched the metal surrounding the heater element and could not leave my hand on it for more than 5 or 6 seconds. I did check the resistance of the AC heater element and it was 47 K ohms. I checked the resistance of the thermistor with warm water and Ice cold water and I did have different readings but never got to the specs that I had. I was going to let it run in the Bypass mode but ran out of time, I will try this next time up unless someone has any other sugestions. I do not think the cooling unit is faulty because it does make ice when it runs. Do you still think I need to power the heater directly?

Yes, Power the 120 direct. But, You STILL need to get the REAL temps in the freezer and refer with a DIGITAL type thermometer. The Thermister test is not valid. You can have a Thermister that OHMS out the correct readings and still be bad. Doug

[holdn2aces]

dougrainer wrote:

holdn2aces wrote:
Doug, this unit is in a Jayco 30JTX, the reefer is not in the slide portion. I have investicated more and was going to try the suggestion you proposed next weekend when I get back to my trailer. I do not have an amp meter to test how many amps the heater is drawing but will try to get one for next weekend to confirm if the heater is within spec. Do the control boards go on these often?

Amp meter is not needed. The Heat element either works or it does NOT. So, if it gets hot it is working. Control board failure is not that common. Doug

Went to my RV this weekend and forgot some tools at home to bypass board by connecting heater direct to AC. What I did do was disconnect the AC and ran the fridge on Gas. After several hours the fridge stopped and trouble code 5 flashes was displayed. The fridge and freezer were at operating temprature when it tripped the code. I tried to restart it by cycling the switch with no luck, I then tried to reflash (AC Disconnected)the board as I have done several times before with no luck, I then disconnected the 12 volt + connector and reconnected it right away and the it tripped the board as if I had reflashed it. I decided at that point to run it on AC and save my Gas. After 40 minutes I touched the metal surrounding the heater element and could not leave my hand on it for more than 5 or 6 seconds. I did check the resistance of the AC heater element and it was 47 K ohms. I checked the resistance of the thermistor with warm water and Ice cold water and I did have different readings but never got to the specs that I had. I was going to let it run in the Bypass mode but ran out of time, I will try this next time up unless someone has any other sugestions. I do not think the cooling unit is faulty because it does make ice when it runs. Do you still think I need to power the heater directly?

[gordypig]

Cooling unit is bad. I replaced one this past weekend, with the same problem.
695.00 installed Amish built 3-year warranty

[dougrainer]

Travel2build wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
Then you need an amp meter 2.6 amps is spec. Doug

I don't think my meter checks amps. I have an ideal 61-310. I am not electrically educated. Never had a need. I could swap out any part and put anything back together. But knowing what is wrong electrically baffles me.

The fidge has been on 2 days now, still just warm at rear but inside is cold enough and freezer is frozen.

I am still skeptical. Why did it stop working 2 weeks ago. All I did was switch to propane, a week later check voltage on the heater terminals at board and left heater disconnected. Tried to check ohms but I am clueless what the numbers mean or if I did it right and it is within spec. Then 4 days later hooked the heater back up and tried it on electric and it seems to be working.

Then your 120 element is working. BUT, the freezer should be BELOW 10 degrees and the refer below 40 degrees. Get those temp read outs and see if they are good. Doug

[Travel2build]

dougrainer wrote:
Then you need an amp meter 2.6 amps is spec. Doug

I don't think my meter checks amps. I have an ideal 61-310. I am not electrically educated. Never had a need. I could swap out any part and put anything back together. But knowing what is wrong electrically baffles me.

The fidge has been on 2 days now, still just warm at rear but inside is cold enough and freezer is frozen.

I am still skeptical. Why did it stop working 2 weeks ago. All I did was switch to propane, a week later check voltage on the heater terminals at board and left heater disconnected. Tried to check ohms but I am clueless what the numbers mean or if I did it right and it is within spec. Then 4 days later hooked the heater back up and tried it on electric and it seems to be working.

[dougrainer]

Then you need an amp meter 2.6 amps is spec. Doug

[Travel2build]

dougrainer wrote:

Travel2build wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

holdn2aces wrote:
Doug, this unit is in a Jayco 30JTX, the reefer is not in the slide portion. I have investicated more and was going to try the suggestion you proposed next weekend when I get back to my trailer. I do not have an amp meter to test how many amps the heater is drawing but will try to get one for next weekend to confirm if the heater is within spec. Do the control boards go on these often?

Amp meter is not needed. The Heat element either works or it does NOT. So, if it gets hot it is working. Control board failure is not that common. Doug

It is warm when i feel the metal shroud around the heater. I know its always been warm but never actually felt it. Is warm enough?

If you hold your hand to the casing for more than 10 seconds, it should be hot enough to make you let go. Doug

Warm to touch after 1 day. Can hold my hand as long as I want about the viewing hole for the flame.

[dougrainer]

Travel2build wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

holdn2aces wrote:
Doug, this unit is in a Jayco 30JTX, the reefer is not in the slide portion. I have investicated more and was going to try the suggestion you proposed next weekend when I get back to my trailer. I do not have an amp meter to test how many amps the heater is drawing but will try to get one for next weekend to confirm if the heater is within spec. Do the control boards go on these often?

Amp meter is not needed. The Heat element either works or it does NOT. So, if it gets hot it is working. Control board failure is not that common. Doug

It is warm when i feel the metal shroud around the heater. I know its always been warm but never actually felt it. Is warm enough?

If you hold your hand to the casing for more than 10 seconds, it should be hot enough to make you let go. Doug

[Travel2build]

dougrainer wrote:

holdn2aces wrote:
Doug, this unit is in a Jayco 30JTX, the reefer is not in the slide portion. I have investicated more and was going to try the suggestion you proposed next weekend when I get back to my trailer. I do not have an amp meter to test how many amps the heater is drawing but will try to get one for next weekend to confirm if the heater is within spec. Do the control boards go on these often?

Amp meter is not needed. The Heat element either works or it does NOT. So, if it gets hot it is working. Control board failure is not that common. Doug

It is warm when i feel the metal shroud around the heater. I know its always been warm but never actually felt it. Is warm enough?

[dougrainer]

holdn2aces wrote:
Doug, this unit is in a Jayco 30JTX, the reefer is not in the slide portion. I have investicated more and was going to try the suggestion you proposed next weekend when I get back to my trailer. I do not have an amp meter to test how many amps the heater is drawing but will try to get one for next weekend to confirm if the heater is within spec. Do the control boards go on these often?

Amp meter is not needed. The Heat element either works or it does NOT. So, if it gets hot it is working. Control board failure is not that common. Doug

[holdn2aces]

Doug, this unit is in a Jayco 30JTX, the reefer is not in the slide portion. I have investicated more and was going to try the suggestion you proposed next weekend when I get back to my trailer. I do not have an amp meter to test how many amps the heater is drawing but will try to get one for next weekend to confirm if the heater is within spec. Do the control boards go on these often?

[dougrainer]

Connect the 120 element to an extension cord and run for 24 hours. This bypasses the controls. IF it does not cool correctly, the Cooling Unit is bad. The NO CO (5 flashes) is a cooling unit protection. Is this refer in a slide room? Doug

[Old-Biscuit]

holdn2aces wrote:
I have leveled the trailer, do you think the cooling unit is faulty because after a reset it works very well, I can even make ice? I removed the roof vent cover and the vent is clear.

Was it level before?

Having it trip after 4-6 hrs.......resetting and then tripping again sounds like blockage. Unit turns on..begins cooling but due to blockage is finally reaching a point of no cooling detected so it trips.

Off level operation causes a slow down in fluid to vapor to fluid and begins to crystallize which builds up.........effect is accumulative

Vent is clear.......how about the air flow from lower vent across backside of cooling unit to roof vent.
Any obstructions OR excessive gaps/areas (dead air spaces)?

[holdn2aces]

I have leveled the trailer, do you think the cooling unit is faulty because after a reset it works very well, I can even make ice? I removed the roof vent cover and the vent is clear.