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PEX pipe and fittings

hybrid_dw
Explorer
Explorer
Starcraft Antigua 2005, Water manifold made of PEX and those one-time crimp hose clamps leak. See pics below. the black plastic PEX "T" somehow cracked on a diagonal across the intersection and streams water. I go to Home Depot and match the same size PEX "T" with a PEX brass "T". I decide to use "real" hose clamps, you know the worm type adjustable screw so that I can re-use, relocate adjust, etc. Now all three locations where the PEX is clamped over the pipe onto the fitting leak. I have them cranked down beyond tight. WTH? I imagine I should replace the whole manifold due to age but what works best here? Any help?



51 REPLIES 51

jfkmk
Explorer
Explorer
I too have used sharkbite fittings with 100% success. Didnโ€™t trust them initially either, but I do now!

path1
Explorer
Explorer
Those worm drive clamps... you're pre posting about water damage. Change out for right stuff. Pressure test with air. You got pressure gauge on your air compressor? What is your spec for pressure side of plumbing for your year model?
2003 Majestic 23P... Northwest travel machine
2013 Arctic Fox 25W... Wife "doll house" for longer snowbird trips
2001 "The Mighty Dodge"... tow vehicle for "doll house"

fitznj
Explorer
Explorer
My vote goes to Sharkbites as well (using new PEX pipe); If you make a mistake, then the "C" tool can remove them and you can fix your mistake;

I did not trust them initially - but now after 10? years they are still working
100%. Never had a leak
Gerry

Rick_Jay
Explorer II
Explorer II
I don't believe those radiate style clamps will work with PEX.

1.) You can either rent/buy the pex banding tool. Tool is expensive, bands are cheap. But, you can't reposition/reuse connections.

2.) Buy the Sharkbite style connectors and the proper PEX cut off tool. If you do, you might as well buy all new PEX pipe, too. It's cheap. Plus, for the Sharkbite style to work, the OUTSIDE surface of the pipe must be free of scratches, the pipe cut perpendicular and no rough edges. The cut-off tool works very well.

You can reposition the pipes after they're connected, so you can rotate parts AFTER they're in place. It can make assembly MUCH EASIER in hard to reach areas. JUST MAKE SURE THE PEX PIPE IS FULLY SEATED BEFORE SUPPLYING WATER PRESSURE.

I didn't trust them at first, but now I swear by them. I've had several installed on my rig for about 13 years now. No issues.

I keep several of the connectors and shut-off valves with me in my RV spare parts kit. If a pipe/faucet leaks or the potty starts leaking or whatever, I can quickly cut the PEX pipe feeding it, put in a shut-off valve and re-pressurize the water to the rest of the rig.

Good Luck,

~Rick
2005 Georgie Boy Cruise Master 3625 DS on a Workhorse W-22
Rick, Gail, 1 girl (27-Angel since 2008), 1 girl (22), 2 boys (23 & 20).
2001 Honda Odyssey, Demco Aluminator tow bar & tow plate, SMI Silent Partner brake controller.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
I would have new pex with sharkbite/gatorbite fittings, Ts and valves.

Worm drive is for low pressure rubber hose... not pex.

1995brave
Nomad
Nomad
Friend of mine just went through this. Had him go to HD or the local RV Store and pick up the white plastic ones that have the twist on clamps. Worked great and only cost him $20. A plumber wanted to charge him over $250 to repair it. You can use SharkBite(expensive).

GordonThree
Explorer
Explorer
I don't think you're supposed to re-use pex that's been crimped and then un-crimped. I never have, but luckily my location is very easy to get at.

My vote is replace all the short pieces that are involved with leaks. Also the crimp connectors are going to be tighter than a hose clamp, which are designed to clamp softer rubber-like material hoses. JMHO
2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
2020 RAM 1500, 5.7 4x4, 8 speed