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Pls define "solar ready" in terms of RV industry

CopilotCompanio
Explorer
Explorer
Does this mean there's a place to plug in a solar panel & they've run cable to the battery bank? Does it imply there is a trickle charger? Does this phrase imply the coach is equipped with an inverter? Does it imply there is a visual panel for managing & monitoring all of the above? Is the definition standard in the industry or does it vary by manufacturer?

Thanks, in advance, for your replies.

/CC
DH: Designated Curmudgeon
Lupรฉ the Rescue Dog: Self-appointed Tattletale
DW: Copilot & Companion
No offense intended. Sarcasm is my strong suit.
17 REPLIES 17

Vintage465
Nomad
Nomad
My Creek Side came with two heavy solar wires from the roof top "quick connect" to a location convenient for a controller and two #8 wires to the battery. So mine is actually Solar Ready and now has a Samlex 30a Controller and 300w of panels. Works like it should or at least I never seem to run out of power if I don't do something stupid.
V-465
2013 GMC 2500HD Duramax Denali. 2015 CreekSide 20fq w/450 watts solar and 465 amp/hour of batteries. Retired and living the dream!

Cydog15
Explorer
Explorer
RJsfishin wrote:
For all yous that condemm anything a factory does, what do you consider to be undersized wire ? In reality, 10 ga is good for 3-400 watts, which even in parallel, puts the running voltage from the panels at about 18 volts. And most the installs use series, which could then make 10ga wire overkill.

Bingo even with administrator admonishment lol

CopilotCompanio
Explorer
Explorer
I appreciate all the replies. Since I'm probably not gonna pull cable by myself, I'll pay close attention to what gauge wire they've used. I suspect that will quickly become my limiting constraint. Very helpful replies. Thank you.
DH: Designated Curmudgeon
Lupรฉ the Rescue Dog: Self-appointed Tattletale
DW: Copilot & Companion
No offense intended. Sarcasm is my strong suit.

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
For all yous that condemm anything a factory does, what do you consider to be undersized wire ? In reality, 10 ga is good for 3-400 watts, which even in parallel, puts the running voltage from the panels at about 18 volts. And most the installs use series, which could then make 10ga wire overkill.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
1. It means that they ran the 2 wires from the battery area to the roof area
2. It means that they ran the wires from the battery area to a spot on an inside wall and then ran 2 more wires up to the roof. This spot is for the Controller if used.
3. It can mean wiring for anything from trickle charge for the batteries to a LARGE charger type solar which they will run 8 to 12 gauge wiring depending on what they felt they wanted to offer.
4. It all depends on the OEM and your particular RV. Doug

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
pianotuna wrote:
In 2004 the pre wire for solar on my unit was #10 wire.
Same here in 2002. It carries up to 600w @ 100VDC. Works fine.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

CJW8
Explorer
Explorer
It means they were kind enough to run some pull wires so you can install sufficiently sized cables.
2003 Forest River Sierra M-37SP Toy Hauler- Traded in
2015 Keystone Raptor 332TS 5th wheel toy Hauler (sold)
2004 Winnebago Vectra. 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

In 2004 the pre wire for solar on my unit was #10 wire. I worked with this and used an MPPT controller. Line losses are less than 1%.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

dons2346
Explorer
Explorer
Trackrig wrote:
It means they ran two undersized wires down from the roof to someplace near the batteries. It's more of marketing gimmick than anything else. Usually their solar ready means you can install 100W to maybe 200W and use their wiring. You'll still have to install a small controller which will still require some hole drilling and additional wires being installed.

Bill


Yup. If I was an installer, I would not use anything that I didn't install. No way would I warrant an installation with someone else's junk wire.

mike-s
Explorer
Explorer
I suspect Zamp provides free "solar ready" kits to manufacturers. It's a win-win for both. The manufacturers get to advertise "solar ready," and Zamp more than makes back the couple of dollars it costs per unit if they sell their overpriced panels/controllers to even 1% of the owners. Many of them don't know any better, or are simply willing to overpay for something which is "plug and play."

CopilotCompanio
Explorer
Explorer
Many thanks for all the replies, as usual.
DH: Designated Curmudgeon
Lupรฉ the Rescue Dog: Self-appointed Tattletale
DW: Copilot & Companion
No offense intended. Sarcasm is my strong suit.

Cydog15
Explorer
Explorer
red31 wrote:
http://www.zampsolar.com/rv-solar-kits/solar-ready-rv-solar-kit-srrv/


I would use Zamp panels regardless who did the pre-wiring and would think it could be upgraded to better wire if it's not already Zamp ready (or equivalent) using the same holes.

doughere
Explorer
Explorer
It means whatever the manufacturer feels like doing.

Doug

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
It must vary by RV brand and model. Our Komfort (no longer made) came with #8 wire for the solar pre-wire. One pair from roof (actually was dangling in the fridge vent ready to be hauled up to the roof) to the kitchen where it was taped to another pair going from the kitchen to the battery area up front, dangling there.

The idea was to put the panel(s) on the roof and attach the pair out of the fridge vent, insert the controller in the kitchen area between the roof pair for input and the battery pair for output, attach lugs to the battery end wires and connect to battery.

This left the controller miles from the battery, so the other way is to join the two pairs where they meet in the kitchen so it is one long pair from roof to battery area, put the controller there with that long pair as input, use short wire you supply from controller output to battery with a fuse you supply on the pos wire near the battery.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.