Preventing freezing pipes during the shoulder season

[swimmer_spe]

I plan on using my trailer well into November. I want to still use the water system without a burst pipe.

Typically, it does get a little below freezing. Besides draining the lines, or keeping the furnace going 24/7, how can I reduce the chances of ice forming in the lines?

Would it be better if the lines were under pressure or not?

In short, I don't want to winterize the water lines yet, nor do I wan a burst pipe.

[KM_Rolling]

GordonThree wrote:

KM Rolling wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Replace the return air grill for the furnace with a twin window fan. I have mine on a thermostat at the water pump. It draw a scant 27 watts so is easily run on an inverter.

Interested in this, can you explain in more detail, and/or do you have some photo's?

KM,

Does your trailer have duct heat?

It does not.

[KM_Rolling]

pianotuna wrote:
Here is an example of what I use:

dual fan



I've tested this to -27 C (-17 F)

KM Rolling wrote:
Interested in this, can you explain in more detail, and/or do you have some photo's?

Thank you!

[KM_Rolling]

pianotuna wrote:
For a long thread on winter camping surf here:

https://forums.goodsamclub.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24160748.cfm

Great thread. Thank you for the link!

[pianotuna]

For example,

It was -2 c (28 f) for a high here today. I drove my class C 280 kilometers. It was at 18 C (64 f) at 2 p.m. At 10 p.m. it was at 4 c (40 f). I have started the generator and am running electric heaters. In 30 minutes I will turn on the furnace at the lowest possible setting, and turn off the generator. Not doing so would certain freeze the pipes by morning because the forecast low is -7 c (19 f).

[pianotuna]

Nothing. I thought the RV was going to be in use.

If it is not in use you must must must winterize.

TurnThePage wrote:
pianotuna, I'm completely missing your point. It looks interesting, but what does that do to prevent freezing in the plumbing of an unheated RV?

[pnichols]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Replace the return air grill for the furnace with a twin window fan. I have mine on a thermostat at the water pump. It draw a scant 27 watts so is easily run on an inverter.

... Or block the stock furnace return air grill opening into the coach interior and make an opening somewhere else down near the floor for the furnace's return ... thus forcing the return air to travel throughout the backsides of the coach cabinetry where a bunch of water pipes and the tank are located in interior voids behind the cabinets!

For instance, our small motorhome is perfectly setup to do this if we ever want to drycamp in the winter months up North or up high. The entire fresh water system tank and pipes are in the interior and in voids where furnace incoming air could be drawn past them if I change the furnace's incoming air draw-point.

Both our grey water tank and black water tank have 12 volt heating pads on their bottoms for possible use drycamping in cold weather. I'd just have to run one of our two generators a lot each day to keep the batteries up.

[mchero]

As stated above, the propane furnaces used in RV's are very inefficient. Plus, the forward furnace in our rig supply's heat to our water bay BUT is piped on the opposite side of the actual valves and such. Cant get enough heat to prevent from freezing thus the need for electric heater in the water bay.
Will use unvented propane heat during the day with proper venting but won't use at night while sleeping.

[pianotuna]

Hi GordonThree,

Since I have a fixed tank, filling propane is a bit of a pain.

http://www.maxmcarter.com/fuels/fuelscalc.html

The above is a calculator that may help decide whether propane is cheaper to use than electricity.

[GordonThree]

Isn't electric more expensive than propane at long term sites? I know it's usually free at transient government parks but I've seen several private parks listing electric heat and air conditioning costs extra.

[mchero]

Your going to go thru allot of propane using that very inefficient rv furnace! I have two of them!

I use a ventless propane heater with a window and roof vent cracked open. Never run it while sleeping.
I'm currently looking at a low amp draw electric heater with freeze protection to use in the wet bay.
Will be installing 30 amp service, possibly 50 amp.
Still resurching two electric heaters for the interior to run during the evening hours.

[TurnThePage]

pianotuna, I'm completely missing your point. It looks interesting, but what does that do to prevent freezing in the plumbing of an unheated RV?

[time2roll]

swimmer_spe wrote:
I plan on using my trailer well into November. I want to still use the water system without a burst pipe.

Typically, it does get a little below freezing. Besides draining the lines, or keeping the furnace going 24/7, how can I reduce the chances of ice forming in the lines?

Would it be better if the lines were under pressure or not?

In short, I don't want to winterize the water lines yet, nor do I wan a burst pipe.

Add heat or drain the water out of the lines is really the only option. Zero to 60 psi will not significantly affect freezing.
Indoor storage is probably the best option.

[GordonThree]

KM Rolling wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Replace the return air grill for the furnace with a twin window fan. I have mine on a thermostat at the water pump. It draw a scant 27 watts so is easily run on an inverter.

Interested in this, can you explain in more detail, and/or do you have some photo's?

KM,

Does your trailer have duct heat?

[GordonThree]

I'm up to 240 watts in DC heating pads, 120 on my holding and another 120 in my aux fresh tank in the truck.

Also have heat trace on the drains and some fresh plumbing.

My