Question about Routing solar cables down fridge vent

[SFVdave]

I see most route their solar cables down the fridge vent and do so on the side opposite the flue. Is there any concern for the amount of heat generated by fridge, especially on a HOT sunny day. I was told the heat will add resistance to the cables and they will deteriorate quickly and can cause failure of the cables, panels or controller.
Any thoughts?

[Almot]

SCVJeff wrote:
Please fix THIS

Ops. Fixed This.

Item 7807K34 at mcmaster.com.

[JFNM]

Just another data point.... I ran my cables down the fridge vent a couple years ago and no problems (full-timer). As noted by others, avoid the hot parts and secure to avoid rubbing on things.

[SCVJeff]

If you are asking about a J-Box, I used THIS on the roof. It's painted epoxy white and mounted next to the vent. It sits in a pool of Dicor and is water tight. There is a diagonal hole from the box into the fridge flue running 8ga. In slitwrap and down.. EZ



Since this pic there are three more cables coming out

[SCVJeff]

Almot wrote:
What you want is This.

2 holes for 2 round cables #10, nice and watertight.

Those Home Depot fittings will be less watertight, though you could add Dicor into the hole (and then it will make difficult taking it apart).

But I think there shouldn't be problem with rain coming around the fitting or through the cable holes of that HD fitting. The cover above will keep it dry.

What IS the problem is attaching the nut to fitting inside the vent. I had to cut the mesh for that.

Please fix THIS

[Almot]

What you want is This.

2 holes for 2 round cables #10, nice and watertight.

Those Home Depot fittings will be less watertight, though you could add Dicor into the hole (and then it will make difficult taking it apart).

But I think there shouldn't be problem with rain coming around the fitting or through the cable holes of that HD fitting. The cover above will keep it dry.

What IS the problem is attaching the nut to fitting inside the vent. I had to cut the mesh for that.

[SFVdave]

Thanks for all the posts. Piked up the Water tight connector
Way too hot to do anything today. Yes will go high and I have a plan to get the conduit locknut on pulling the nut up with string and using s bend hanger to catch it and screw it on.

[azrving]

Yes, you do want to use sealer on the strain relief threads. Dicor or 5200. Dont drill them low, try to stay high but check the cover fit.

[SFVdave]

On my way to Home Depot to see what they have. I like either the metal or plastic stress relief fitting.

[westend]

I can't remember the source but there is a terminal block made for fridge vent installations. It attaches to the vent base and wires are connected at that block. If pulling wires directly from roof top to controller, a grommet is the easiest and there are a variety of them made.

Home Depot sells these Box entry fittings that are weather-proof. I used one on my roof top combiner box. It accepts two MC4 wires. I put some caulk on the entrance just to make sure everything is water tight. If you're able to make a hole in the fridge vent base, this fitting will be all you need and it is metal so won't be breaking or deteriorating from heat or UV.

[MrWizard]

Mine goes thru the mesh
I think most users do it that way
I don't want a hole in the vent base for rain water to come thru into the fridge compartment
A good thunder storm can create a lot of run off and some standing water against vents

[Almot]

SFVdave wrote:
Have any of you drilled 2 holes in the vent base vs cutting the wire mesh. Seems the mesh could end up abrading to cable. I was thinking of sliding rubber insert washers on the cable and set them in the side of the base.

Not 2 holes. One hole for strain relief as mentioned several posts ago. There are fittings with 2 small holes, McMaster have it.

But you will have to cut the mesh a few inches to get access to the nut at the back of the fitting.

Yes, you may drill one or two holes and put a push-in rubber grommet, should work too. With cables fixed to the roof with blob of Dicor and again fixed to the cabinet wall with cable mounts, there won't be much movement.

Passing it through the mesh seems the least reliable attachment, though I don't think it will abrade.

[YC_1]

scrubjaysnest wrote:

YC 1 wrote:
Use low voltage landscape wire and you will have plenty of abrasion and heat protection as well as UV. It is nice and heavy and works extremely well. Available at any home improvement store in the landscape lighting area.

Low voltage landscape wire is usually only 18 AWG and way to small. Panels normally come with 12 AWG wire which is the minimum size one should use between panel and combiner. I use 10 AWG marine grade.

Landscape wire

Landscape lights can use a lot of current.

[azrving]

SFVdave wrote:

rjxj wrote:

SFVdave wrote:
I have my panels and cable. I'm still waiting for the mounts and controller and fuses. Went up the ladder today and removed the vent cap, Re-ran the fishing cord over to the corner. Have any of you drilled 2 holes in the vent base vs cutting the wire mesh. Seems the mesh could end up abrading to cable. I was thinking of sliding rubber insert washers on the cable and set them in the side of the base. Am I over analyzing this?

I put something like this in the side of the vent base.

Do you recall the size? I'm using 10 awg cable.

You have to measure the diameter of the cable that you are using. This one will work with cable that is .11 to .26 in diameter. this will hold two 5mm or .196 inch cables so you would only need to drill one hole. They use a regular conduit nut on the inside of the vent base but it will obviously need a small cut in the screen to hold the nut. You may be able to make the hole just big enough that you can screw directly into the plastic and not use a nut on the inside. If I did it again that is what I would try but also buy extra strain reliefs in case it boogers up the threads and doesn't want to hold. I cut the screen enough so I could get my fingers in to hold the nut as I turned the strain relief. I then used sealer on the screen.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Decent 3:1 heatshrink tubing will make the wire abrasion resistant. The toughest wire insulation is XXT CROSS LINK polyolefin. It is used for high temperature environments and is near UV proof. Find it at Delcity.net

I used 6 AWG on the bus and never looked back. The last 6" are 12 AWG as the wire enters the panels. I globbed silicone dielectric grease onto the panel terminals before sealing them up.