Replacing black water cable valve

[amdriven2liv]

I have a slow leak from my black water tank valve. Local RV shop says $400+ to replace.

This is a 2010 Montana. I have done some looking around and have found many videos showing how to replace a valve, but, they have been all straight pull valves.

Anyone have a video of changing one of these out? Or suggestions? ( I did just put some vegetable oil in the tank yesterday to see if that trick would help) Valterra valve I believe.

Thanks

[Carl_n_Susan]

Having just done this on a 2012 Montana, I can provide some tips to make your job easier and cleaner.

• The 2010 Montana has a dropped frame. This makes access to the valves easy. Just remove the screws at the rear edge of the dropped frame and a couple of feet along the sides. This will be enough to "roll" the rear edge of the coroplast forward to expose the valves.
  
• Do flush the black tank to minimize residual stuff and odors.
  
• Lower the front end of the RV (either park on a hill or drop the front jacks) to avoid having liquid exiting the tank when you remove the valve.
  
• As others have written, Montana (and others) build the sewer lines with no free space. Getting the valve out/in can be a challenge. The trick is to cut the sewer pipe after the "Y" where the black and grey tank meet. Remove about an inch of pipe. Stop by your favorite hardware store and pick up a No-Hub connector and two hose clamps. Slide the No-Hub all the way on the sewer pipe before you change the valve. That way you have room to extract the current valve and install the new one without crimping the seals. Then slide the No-Hub into place and tighten up the hose clamps.

I changed the valve in mine in about 2 hours, not having ever done it before. Also I don't work fast - I am old and retired and don't have to anymore.

[Dave_H_M]

I bought one of those twist on valves while on the road a couple of years ago. Worked for me.

However being kinda whatever upstairs I replaced the valve at my own leisure, Amazon has the whole Valterra assy to include the cable.

Ain't nothing like that stuff that runs down your arm and puddles in your arm pit when changing one of then. :W

[dougrainer]

rockhillmanor wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
.... As to an "arrow" pointing which way?????? In 37 years whether it was Valterra or Bristol, I have NEVER seen an arrow and if you REALLY understand the design and how the flanges/seals are utilized, you would know that the valves have no front or back. .... Doug

I respectively disagree with you and really take offense that you choose to post a bash and call me a liar.:R

There WAS an arrow on the flat end on the top indicating the direction of the flow of water. The arrow was a molded part of the blade not a label so it was the same color as the blade.

AND if YOU REALLY understood the valve blade. The Bristol valve I installed DID have a front and back. A look at the blade itself showed that they were NOT flat but that one edge of the blade itself is slanted to fit. Arrow on top showed that the slant on blade should face the water flow.

Is this arrow still on the newer Bristol valves I don't know haven't had to replace one in the past few years. But do NOT call me a liar and that I don't understand. If you want to bash forum members find another forum to do so.

I did NOT call you a Liar. YOU took what I posted to think that. I guess the excess of 500 of Bristol/Valterra valves I have replaced over the years, even tho according to you I had a 50/50 chance of getting the arrow pointing the right way, I somehow ALWAYS installed it correctly. ALL the valves I have seen are slanted on both sides. Can you take a pic of yours showing this arrow? Doug

PS. I opened up some 3 and 1.5 inch valves off the parts shelf and NONE have any arrows. Doug

[deweysmith5]

Just letting it soak in water may help but I would think any of the commercial black chemicals would work. Others may have a better idea. As for me I had to change the valve because a dish rag was caught in the valve...don't ask.

[amdriven2liv]

I do have the twist lock valve on the end. I like having the control to force the gray water back up into the black water tank.

Any suggestions on a chemical to use to clean the valve slide?

Thanks,
Sean

[deweysmith5]

I can see one advantage to the twist on waste valve is having the ability to fill the waste line up with water, even water with a chemical to help dissolve any debris around the valve. And to change a cable valve in the underbelly, aggregation does not begin to describe the process.

[rockhillmanor]

dougrainer wrote:
.... As to an "arrow" pointing which way?????? In 37 years whether it was Valterra or Bristol, I have NEVER seen an arrow and if you REALLY understand the design and how the flanges/seals are utilized, you would know that the valves have no front or back. .... Doug

I respectively disagree with you and really take offense that you choose to post a bash and call me a liar.:R

There WAS an arrow on the flat end on the top indicating the direction of the flow of water. The arrow was a molded part of the blade not a label so it was the same color as the blade.

AND if YOU REALLY understood the valve blade. The Bristol valve I installed DID have a front and back. A look at the blade itself showed that they were NOT flat but that one edge of the blade itself is slanted to fit. Arrow on top showed that the slant on blade should face the water flow.

Is this arrow still on the newer Bristol valves I don't know haven't had to replace one in the past few years. But do NOT call me a liar and that I don't understand. If you want to bash forum members find another forum to do so.

[RayJayco]

I agree with Doug. Mine leaked and unfortunately my black tank cracked so when I removed black tank to repair I realized the only problem with valve was that the gaskets needed cleaning. (Another reason to always keep some water in your tank as it will not allow the debris to dry on gaskets/seals)

And like he said, the biggest problem is getting access to remove and clean the valve.

A job like that is all labor. If you can do it yourself you will save a lot of money, just be prepared for some aggravation.

Good luck!

[dougrainer]

If it seeps, then there is debris keeping the valve from fully closing. ANY type lube or oil will NOT fix that problem. People that state it is an EASY job to access and replace a CABLE driven valve WITH an underbelly have no clue as to what it really takes. The Cable driven valves function NOTHING like a standard pull rod valve. AND, they are mounted a lot different and are really a PITA to work on especially with an underbelly that has NO access covers. Very few OEM's install access covers for the tank valves. As to an "arrow" pointing which way?????? In 37 years whether it was Valterra or Bristol, I have NEVER seen an arrow and if you REALLY understand the design and how the flanges/seals are utilized, you would know that the valves have no front or back. 4 hours is not unrealistic depending on what is involved to access the system and correctly dropping the underbelly and reattaching the underbelly. Doug

[amdriven2liv]

Thanks for the information folks.

I'll sleep on it some more. I usually beat things around for a while before I decide to jump in.

[MrWizard]

i've done the valve replacemnet on other RV's where its at the end of the pipe at the edge of the RV

BUT a cable valve that is on ONE side of a Y so that black and gray are both, remote reach , is a really big PITA to try and replace

it get less simple and more complicated with each new RV that comes along
really bad when the valves are covered inside the belly of the TT

just saying replace it, its only an HOUR, is well..NOT so simple any more

[rockhillmanor]

I replaced both the black and gray valves. No problem. Unscrew screws take out and insert new ones.

I think it took me less than an hour and that included bleaching the heck and flushing out the black tank. I just didn't want to deal with ANY type of sewage or smell while I was working on it! :W

Pick up the valve at any camping store or rv dealership parts store.

There was a time that there were 2 types. Bristol and Valterra. So be sure you pick up the correct one for your RV.

Also on mine there was a very small arrow molded on the valve itself. It is meant to tell you what direction the water flows so you put the valve in correctly. I didn't see that at first so that less than an hour installation 'included' putting one in and out twice so the arrow was pointing in the right direction! :B

[deweysmith5]

I changed one on a previous trailer and I want to say it was a bear. On this trailer I had to cut an opening under the valve location. Getting the exact location was not easy. Removing the old valve was relatively painless but getting the pipes spread apart to install the new valve to get the seals to set right was extremely difficult. I had to redo the install three times before it didn't leak (i just filled the tank with water to test). I actually used the old bolts and nuts to spread the pipes far enough to slip it in place. I sewed the opening shut with wire ties. Hopefully, your install won't be as involved.

[cyntdon2010]

MR WIZARD, TWIST ON VALVE IS THE RIGHT ANSWER.

I have had one for 3 years..