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roof rack above air conditioner shroud

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

My plan is to populate the entire roof with solar panels. I want 2 inches of clearance, so I'll need some sort of "stand off".

What method would you use to support such a rack?

How would you fasten it to the roof/RV?

To keep weight down I'm going to use aluminum.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
10 REPLIES 10

Ed_Gee
Explorer II
Explorer II
Unfortunately that picture is all I could see. Welded aluminum mostly....hinged to lift for AC service. I only assume flange feet standard screwed to fiberglass roof.
Ed - on the Central Oregon coast
2018 Winnebago Fuse 23A
Scion xA toad

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Uni-strut bolted to upright supports, fastened at roof wall junction ?
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi Ed,

Thanks for the picture.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Ed_Gee
Explorer II
Explorer II
This guy did a nice job of it.....looked good up close - hope the picture does it justice....best shot I could take. That's an all aluminum frame he had built for his 1200 Watts of panels.

Ed - on the Central Oregon coast
2018 Winnebago Fuse 23A
Scion xA toad

westend
Explorer
Explorer
How high is the top of the airconditioner shroud? They do make racking systems for residential solar module installation. You might wish to reference that for ideas.

I don't have roof mounted A/C but from what I've seen, it may be easier to rack a module above the A/C and leave the rest at near-roof level. If that creates too much shadow, it may be easier to forgo that module.

You may have wishes to get the most possible up there and a full rack serves that purpose. A good fabricator could make such a rack but it won't be cheap. It may be that a combination of fabrication and available mfg. pieces makes the project cheaper.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
pianotuna wrote:
I'm planning on a wind deflector at the front of the roof.
That is unnecessary and should cause additional lifting due to increased air flow over the top. My 3 panels are 6" high and parallel to the roof front to back with a 4 degree side slope. No deflector and never a driving or high wind problem.

Vertical angled aluminum attached to angled aluminum on the roof will secure then panels. I saw a nice installation using used 2" square screened porch aluminum to secure the panels.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
Doug, as always, Speaks the Truth! Our A/C as drawing high amps and shutting down when our temp got to 100* with high humidity. I found out, through Chris Bryant, that the shroud, complemented by baffles at the edges of the condenser coil, keeps hot discharge air out of the intake side of the coil.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
1. The AC shroud is usually needed to route air thru the Condensor.
2. I would be concerned about getting fresh air IN and OUT of the condenser if you have a solid platform 2 inches above the AC unit. I would worry about overheating the AC system. Doug

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi Gjac,

I'm planning on a wind deflector at the front of the roof.

The rack is to be from the front to the back of the RV and the full width of the RV. It will be a fixed installation with an angle of 5 degrees to allow for drainage of the panels.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
Wow Don you are always thinking. The main concern would be air getting under that 2 in space above the AC shroud. So some how that space has to be blocked off. I think I would try to build a structural secondary shroud out of FG epoxy and use the existing attach hole to your existing shroud. You can also make it from 1/8 Al 7075 T6 or what ever structural Al you can find if you are not comfortable working with FG. I not sure you need the thermoplastic shroud that is up there now for the AC to function correctly maybe someone else can comment on that. But if it is not needed you can get a few more attach points with this new one to the AC structure underneath.