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Self-adjusting Drum Brakes

Passin__Through
Explorer
Explorer
I am about to replace my stock brakes with self-adjusting brakes. My 5er has 6000# Lippert axles, brakes are 12"x2", tire diameter is 16".

Both Lippert and Dexter make self-adjusting brake units, but the Dexter brakes cost 40% to 50% more than the Lippert brakes. Does anyone here have any experience with either of these brakes? Are the Dexter brakes that much better-made as to justify the extra cost? Does anyone know of measurable differences in durability, service life, etc.? (I have already read lots of complaints about Lippert frames and such but do not believe they manufacture their own brakes. I could be wrong.)

I know electric over hydraulic disc brakes would be the best way to go but at this point in time I believe they are quite a bit cost-prohibitive, as well as the fact that I have not been able to find an exact replacement kit to fit my axles.

Please see my sig for 5er info. I bought it used (5 years old) and have thus far put 39,000 miles on it. Previous owner miles are unknown.

Any guidance you can offer will be appreciated. Thanks.
2008 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax 4x4 CCSB; Superglide 16k hitch w/3" lift kit; Titan 52-gallon replacement fuel tank :C
2007 HitchHiker II LS 26.5RLBG Mor/Ryde pinbox:B
9 REPLIES 9

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Passin' Through wrote:
.... as well as the fact that I have not been able to find an exact replacement kit to fit my axles.
The disks just go on direct replacing the drum. Caliper bracket uses the same standard mounting holes as the backing plate. Then a few steel brake lines, rubber brake hoses, T-fittings, and a pump. Maybe a flare tool and you are all set.

Passin__Through
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks to all who responded. I decided to order the Lippert brake assemblies which are due to arrive in a few days. Also ordered new grease seals so I can repack the bearings.

Thanks especially to Mexicowanderer for the tip about wiping down the adjusting parts and pivots with anti-seize. Never would have thought of that myself.

If I happen to get a visit from the folks at Publishers Clearing House with a huge check made out to me, I'll make an appointment right away to have disc brakes installed on my 5er. ๐Ÿ™‚
2008 Chevrolet 2500HD Duramax 4x4 CCSB; Superglide 16k hitch w/3" lift kit; Titan 52-gallon replacement fuel tank :C
2007 HitchHiker II LS 26.5RLBG Mor/Ryde pinbox:B

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
WVJayco wrote:
I'm not sure what your question is. If you are thinking of attempting to put Dexter brakes on Lippert axles, don't do it. The two are almost identical in design, but my guess is that mixing the two won't even work. Are you planning to replace everything, such as the backing plate and hub assemblies? I just dealt with Lippert on my Lippert axles and brakes and did all the work myself, so I learned a lot in the process. If not replacing the hub assemblies make sure you thoroughly clean and repack the bearings and replace the grease seals while you are in there.


I talked to eTrailer about mixing the brands and they said no problem, they are identical and there is no issue interchanging them.

WVJayco
Explorer
Explorer
I'm not sure what your question is. If you are thinking of attempting to put Dexter brakes on Lippert axles, don't do it. The two are almost identical in design, but my guess is that mixing the two won't even work. Are you planning to replace everything, such as the backing plate and hub assemblies? I just dealt with Lippert on my Lippert axles and brakes and did all the work myself, so I learned a lot in the process. If not replacing the hub assemblies make sure you thoroughly clean and repack the bearings and replace the grease seals while you are in there.
"Montani Semper Liberi"

2017 Ram 2500 Cummins Turbo Diesel, Crew Cab
2017 Jayco Jay Flight 28BHBE

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
I have the Dexter 7,000(6800) lb. axles and self-adjusting brakes. Have no idea which brand, but am assuming Dexter since they are Dexter axles. They seem to work very well and were adjusted fine the last time I checked a couple years ago.

And as instructed, use anti-seize to keep moving parts moving.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

donn0128
Explorer II
Explorer II
Check around. Disk brake conversions are only around 2000 retail parts only. If your handy the job can be done in a weekend.

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
Looking at both brands on-line, they appear to be identical.

wolfe10
Explorer
Explorer
Disk brakes, by their very design ARE self-adjusting.

Some disk brakes are better than others-- particularly in RV applications where they tend to sit for long periods of time (fixed caliper better than floating caliper).
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
From 30 years ago is valid?
The Dexter units were heavier

But the school of hard knocks taught me this...

Anything threaded or slides or pivots can use an EXTREMELY light costing of anti-seize. Like Never Seize.

Arguments like "Oooooooo no! It'll make brake powder cling!" is irrational. Friction material will grab ahold of bare steel like an adhesive. Anti seize is anti-friction and "brake dust" wipes right off.

Problems with self-adjusters happen when brake dust jams the works causing seizing of parts. I used a clean towel to wipe off all but the thinnest costing of anti seize.

I found zero difference between the two vendors when anti-seize was used. Bare steel the cheaper kit often bent the star wheel lever arm.

Go figure...