Slide Out is Blowing Fuses

[bisaacs]

My daughter has a Rockwood Roo hybrid that blows a 30 amp fuse whenever the slide out is closed all the way. I thought I had the problem solved by thoroughly lubricating the slide, but the problem has returned. Nothing seems to be binding, there are no wires being pinched--everything worked fine last year.

When the slide is extended, we can hear a "clutch" of some sort making a nasty noise when it reaches the end of its travel. Upon retraction, there is no clutch noise; the fuse simply blows as soon as the gasket around the slide is compressed.

We have found that by being very careful and stopping at exactly the right spot we can save ourselves from a fuse change but this feels more like a workaround than a solution. At the moment I'm thinking of changing the fuse size to 35 amps. This, combined with careful retraction, would probably go a long way towards correcting the situation. I'm sure no dealer would recommend this, but at this point I really don't know what else to do. Any suggestions?

Thanks, Bob

[BFL13]

jyrostng wrote:

BFL13 wrote:
The Lippert system "stop can" I mentioned earlier is described here--go down to page 14 for how to adjust for correct seal in or out.

https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/Electric-Through-Frame-Slide-Out-Manual.pdf

Lippert calls for a breaker, not a fuse

On my 2003 Lippert slide they want a 30a fuse on the pos wire near the battery post. Interesting to go to a CB.

I had the older style IN/OUT and when it failed I had to use the above link to figure out how to wire the new switch. Thank goodness guys here pointed me to that wiring diagram or I never would have figured it out! 🙂

I see in this link they also want the slide to be in for long term storage. Never have done that--it stays out when we are home. Oh well. 🙂

[jyrostng]

BFL13 wrote:
The Lippert system "stop can" I mentioned earlier is described here--go down to page 14 for how to adjust for correct seal in or out.

https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/Electric-Through-Frame-Slide-Out-Manual.pdf

Lippert calls for a breaker, not a fuse, and 10 gauge wire, 30 amp.

[BFL13]

The Lippert system "stop can" I mentioned earlier is described here--go down to page 14 for how to adjust for correct seal in or out.

https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/Electric-Through-Frame-Slide-Out-Manual.pdf

[jyrostng]

No limits on my motor that I know of, just a brake. It's a gear drive.
Picture of my slide motor

[Dave_H_M]

what BLF and Doug said.

My screw drive has manual limits that are set for the in and out.

When the slide hits the manual limit the clutch ratchets.

kinda cave man stuff, not fancy electronics. :W

[bisaacs]

Thank you all for your advice. This thing definitely has some sort of ratchet clutch arrangement which, as has been stated, lets you know when to let go of the switch. I believe it even says that in the manual. It's a cheap half-assed screw drive; there is no sign of any limit switches from what I can see. The camper is only about four years old and has had light use; hard to believe the clutch went bad but who knows with the cheap way they build these things.

I think I'll go with the self resetting breaker idea and I've already shown her when to release the switch so it won't stress the motor. (I put a small mark on the floor.) Replacing the clutch would seem unnecessary if she's careful. I don't think there is anything stuck in it or jamming because it does close all the way before it pops the fuse.

If it quits completely, she'll just have to sell her first born child and go to the dealer for repairs!

Again, thank you guys for your help. Bob

[BFL13]

time2roll wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
This means when the slide out reaches full extension or retraction, the motor clutch causes that ratcheting sound and you release the button(prevents blowing the fuse). IF the Motor ratchets on extension then does NOT on retraction your motor/Clutch is defective. But not worth replacing.

Mine has made the ratchet sound only during extension. Motor stalls at the retraction limit. Has done this since new.

Had assumed this was normal... now I am not sure. No matter, as we never open a fuse.

The Lippert electric in our 2003 ratchets both ways. That's how I know when to let go of the button. There is a 'stop' thingy you can twirl on the rail underneath to pick when it is all the way (can't remember if that is all the way in or all the way out.)

The OP seems to be hitting an obstruction before the slide ratchets on the way in. No idea what that could be. I do know if you drop a pop can on the floor you can get that behind the slide end on the way out and there is a problem till you bring it back in and get rid of the pop can that fell off the counter. 😞

What could it hit on the way back in? Maybe the outer seal rubber not folding back and forth properly? Is something on the slide roof not letting it come all the way in?

[MrWizard]

ok thanks for the info, might be an overload or stop circuit inside the motor

[jyrostng]

I started at the slide motor and traced the wires, they go right to a 40 amp rocker switch fed by the 30 amp breaker at the bat box, no limits, no load sensor. That's the way my 2000 Southwind 32v is.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Limit switches. Relay coil interruptors. I saw some adjustable submersible limit switches on a hydraulics parts site the other day.

And these rigs cost HOW much?

Oh well...

[time2roll]

dougrainer wrote:
This means when the slide out reaches full extension or retraction, the motor clutch causes that ratcheting sound and you release the button(prevents blowing the fuse). IF the Motor ratchets on extension then does NOT on retraction your motor/Clutch is defective. But not worth replacing.

Mine has made the ratchet sound only during extension. Motor stalls at the retraction limit. Has done this since new.

Had assumed this was normal... now I am not sure. No matter, as we never open a fuse.

[dougrainer]

Some Electric slide motors have a clutch feature. This means when the slide out reaches full extension or retraction, the motor clutch causes that racheting sound and you release the button(prevents blowing the fuse). IF the Motor rachets on extension then does NOT on retraction your motor/Clutch is defective. But not worth replacing. Install a 30 amp Auto reset 12 volt breaker. That way, the breaker resets after a few seconds. Jayco actually installs Auto reset breakers for some of the slide rooms because of this. The basic rule of thumb is, you NEVER should adjust or move the Force adjustment on a slide room control box if you have this type. That is why most of these type boxes have a paper seal over the adjustment pot. The Intellitec(Newmar uses these) brand slide controllers are the exception to this. Doug

[brulaz]

Like Wiz says, we just hold the switch until it stops.

There's a click under the floor near the slide motor when it stops. The specs of the Klauber motor in mine show there's no auto-reset built-in to the motor. So I think there has to be a separate auto-reset breaker hidden in the the floor somewhere. But I've had no luck finding it. Nor have I seen any micro-switch arrangement.

I measured the slide current (8' wide, ram style): ~5A normally but got up to ~20A just before stopping. Or thereabouts.

Anyway, good luck!

[jyrostng]

MrWizard wrote:
congrats.. your steps closer to fixing your slide

i hope the OP also has good luck with his daughters rv

Where is your load sensing board for the slide located?