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Solar Wiring Diagram - Any Comments/Suggestions?

alliemac9
Explorer
Explorer
Hoping to continue to tap into the collective solar intelligence here...this is my wiring diagram for the system I am planning as discussed in this thread.

Any comments? Have I missed anything? One specific question - I'm not sure when/why I would need this, but it would probably be easy to connect the converter to one of the Blue Sea Battery Switch inputs which would allow separation so that I could use several modes: Solar Only, Converter Only, Solar+Converter, All Off. Is this worth doing?

2007 Coachmen Freelander 2430DB + 2 dogs
25 REPLIES 25

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
TechWriter wrote:
mena661 wrote:
You only need fuses on solar when you have a 3 or more string array.

You have a source for this?


http://www1.cooperbussmann.com/pdf/9df1f7ec-8c62-4210-8cf8-9504927394f0.pdf

"PV systems that have three or more strings connected in
parallel need to have each string protected (systems that
have less than three strings will not generate enough fault
current to damage the conductors/equipment and
therefore do not present a safety hazard as long as the
conductor was sized properly based on local code
requirements)."

"Once it has been determined that maximum short-circuit current
.... exceeds continuous current rating of conductor, follow the
recommendations of selecting the proper PV string fuse."
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

TechWriter
Explorer
Explorer
mena661 wrote:
You only need fuses on solar when you have a 3 or more string array.

You have a source for this?
2004 - 2010 Part Timer (35โ€™ 2004 National RV Sea Breeze 8341 - Workhorse)
2010 - 2021 Full Timer (41โ€™ 2001 Newmar Mountain Aire 4095 DP - Cummins)
2021 - ??? Part Timer (31โ€™ 2001 National RV Sea View 8311 - Ford)
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mena661
Explorer
Explorer
You only need fuses on solar when you have a 3 or more string array.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

I do not see asking simple questions as harsh. I'm sorry my post was interpreted that way.

Load diversion is not needed--but with nearly 600 watts of solar a lot of the time the panels will have already charged the battery bank to bursting full. At that time, diversion load (which I think is on the pwm tristar already) could be used to power a 12 volt water heater. (added to the water heater in place of the drain plug).
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
KID controller has, er... kiddish size terminals :), and no remote monitoring. But this is beside the topic anyway, the OP's array mandates at least 40A controller.

TechWriter
Explorer
Explorer
alliemac9 wrote:
Hoping to continue to tap into the collective solar intelligence here...this is my wiring diagram for the system I am planning as discussed in this thread.

If you haven't purchased a controller, look at MidNite's new KID Controller. Also, there's a handy array sizing tool. Check out MidNite's Forums too.

I'm all for fusing, but I prefer resetable breakers. At the very least, they're a handy way of disconnecting each panel. Here's my PV schematic. I opted for all parallel PV connections.
2004 - 2010 Part Timer (35โ€™ 2004 National RV Sea Breeze 8341 - Workhorse)
2010 - 2021 Full Timer (41โ€™ 2001 Newmar Mountain Aire 4095 DP - Cummins)
2021 - ??? Part Timer (31โ€™ 2001 National RV Sea View 8311 - Ford)
www.rvSeniorMoments.com
DISH TV for RVs

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
You don't need the funny switch to choose solar vs or with converter.

-You can use both at the same time, no issues

-Should you want no solar, you already have the switch on the array side of the controller

-For solar only, no converter (why ever that?), You can use the battery disconnect switch to isolate the battery from the converter. I don't know if the battery disconnect switch is downstream from where you will parallel the controller and converter outputs. If it is, then you need another way to turn off the converter (by turning off its 120v eg)

- If you just plug things into the inverter or an extension cord from it, then no need to turn off the converter. If you plug the shore power cord into the inverter or into an extension cord from the inverter (like we do) then you need a way to turn off the converter's 120v.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
alliemac9 wrote:
I'm not sure about battery voltage sense wires? Is this related to the TriMetric connections?

And I don't know what diversion load wiring is.

Voltage sense wire has nothing to do with Trimetric, but is a "recommended option" for Morningstar controllers. I think you need it.
Load diversion was, I believe, a tongue in cheek comment. Those are necessary with wind turbines, but in solar it's optional.

alliemac9 wrote:

This is what we preliminarily came up with - I mentioned that it seemed like others were putting fuses on each panel, but I never saw a discussion of why

Not on "each panel". There was a discussion, and the Handbook by Bussman-Cooper was quoted, which handbook said, on the page 5, that if Isc of parallel array exceeds the conductor/string rating calculated as 1.56*(PV Isc), string fusing is necessary: page 5.

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
In your drawing the left hand battery would contribute more power. Balanced wiring eliminates that. See the first diagram below for 2 12V batteries.

2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
smkettner wrote:
alliemac9 wrote:
Interesting.... wondering if the combiner box will have enough room for three fuses? It hasn't arrived yet...

May need 4 fuses and 4 connections direct into the combiner.
I agree 4 fuses in the combiner box would be best.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

cruz-in
Explorer
Explorer
Link to wiring diagram and picts of my system:

Solar Description, Picts, and Wiring Diagram
2011 Monaco Vesta
Interesting Coach
This particular one was the prototype.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
alliemac9 wrote:
Interesting.... wondering if the combiner box will have enough room for three fuses? It hasn't arrived yet...

May need 4 fuses and 4 connections direct into the combiner.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
alliemac9 wrote:
@smkettner - First points noted. What's the benefit of a separate connection for the solar and the converter versus simply tying into the existing connection points before the existing fuse? As for the WFCO, we recently had to troubleshoot some issues with it, and I noted when we got it back on and functioning the system was reading 14.6V. Other than that, I haven't done any monitoring of how well its three stage system is working.


If you have a large enough fuse to handle the solar and WFCO it will be close to 100 amps. Technically that leaves the smaller converter wires unprotected unless you are upgrading that wire as well.

I would rather have an 80amp fuse on the solar (see the manual) and separate 60a fuse on the WFCO connection that I assume is #6 or #4.

alliemac9
Explorer
Explorer
Interesting.... wondering if the combiner box will have enough room for three fuses? It hasn't arrived yet...
2007 Coachmen Freelander 2430DB + 2 dogs