Suggestions for a bladder type water tank n pickup bed.

[Greyhound_RB]

At 65 I'm tired of carrying the 5 gallon water jugs to pour in my 5er when at parks with no water at camp site. I'd love to get a compact bladder type tank to put in truck. I could go fill up with about 50 gals at park water station and then have 12v pump to pump into rv tank with my garden hose.
Can anyone inform me of a worth while bladder type setup. My self & back thank you.

[TakingThe5th]

One advantage of any “pumping” solutions over a “pouring” method is that I can easily filter the water and save my RV pump from harm. Simply remember to have a small filter installed in every female hose connector.

[SoundGuy]

azrving wrote:
No matter how you do this the issue is to pump water, not carry it. All the pieces of the water handling system need to be maintained so they dont mold.

Great advice IMO 🙂 ... and easy to do by periodically drawing a water / bleach mixture through the system with your water transfer pump and letting it sit for awhile, sanitizing everything including the hoses. :B

[azrving]

No matter how you do this the issue is to pump water, not carry it. All the pieces of the water handling system need to be maintained so they dont mold. When you are done dont forget to also bleach your hoses. You may drain them but you could still see mold form in them. The first clear hose that I used when adapting onto my winterizing port developed mold spots in it. I drained it but the next time I went to use it there were black mold spots in it. If I'm storing my fresh hoses for any amount of time I give them a shot of bleach and water and connect the ends together and roll the mixture around and around.

All of this is especially important if using well water but I dont depend on the amount of chlorination in city water.

[SoundGuy]

TakingThe5th wrote:
I like to find a way to add some additional brass fittings to the bottom of the assembly to add weight and encourage the hose to always seek bottom.

Make yourself a draw tube using PVC pipe that will connect to your pump's intake hose and reach the bottom of the tank, just as I did.

[TakingThe5th]

I use a food grade 55 gal drum. The drum has a large rugged plastic flange around the top. I installed two metal straps across the top of the drum by drilling holes in the plastic flange, bending the metal straps to fit and bolting the straps to the drum.

I then mounted a 12 volt Shurflo demand pump to the straps. (The pump I selected can also be used as a backup pump if needed) Attach a small length of potable garden hose with a male hose connector to the outlet side of the pump.

Obtain a brass garden hose thread to metal pipe thread adapter. The adapter should have both internal and external threads on the metal pipe side. Typically the external threads are 3/4" and the internal threads are 1/2".

For the inlet side of the pump - select one of the drum openings to feed the pump. Select the smaller 3/4" inch opening if you have one, otherwise select one of the 2 inch holes and fashion a plug with a threaded opening, then screw the garden hose adapter into the 2 inch plug.

Using the internal threads of the garden hose adapter-screw in a plastic or brass barb fitting, then attach to the barb a length of potable hose that has a female hose fitting on one end. Put a small hose filter into the female end and then attach a small length of hose Which has a male fitting on one end and a slant cut on the bottom end. The length of this assembly should allow the hose with the slant cut to reach the bottom of the barrel. This assembly will now allow you to use the barrel in any vertical or horizonal position, but make sure you strap the barrel down. I like to find a way to add some additional brass fittings to the bottom of the assembly to add weight and encourage the hose to always seek bottom.

Screw the assembly onto the drum hole you have selected. Attach a length of garden hose with a female hose fitting to the garden hose adapter and attach the other end to the inlet of the pump.

Add some wiring to the pump as desired. I like to use a 2-pin flat connector to feed the pump. The 2-pin connector will plug into a 4-pin flat connector and I will sometimes use my trailer harness to power the pump off the taillight circuit. I also have adapters for other uses that use the other end of a two-pin flat connector.

Pump is now ready for use. I will either fill the fresh water tank, or I can connect to the RV fresh water inlet and pump on demand right from the drum. I sanitize the drum whenever I sanitize the 5er.

Total cost = cost of the drum plus $20-$30 in hose and hardware. I actually have two drums - one I use for spraying. The second drum uses PEX tubing, but I also like the garden hose approach. They each have their place.

Enjoy ...

[mordecai81]

Bobbo wrote:
I have gone upstairs and threatened the water heater with what I will do if it fails now.)

If it fails on you I least it can't say it wasn't warned:)

[Bobbo]

The water bladder I bought for my RVing came in most handy the week in December when the water line from the meter to my house ruptured. I filled the bladder and was able to get by for the 4 days until the plumbers could fix it. (It takes 2 milk jugs of water to fill a toilet tank so you can flush.) (FWIW, 3 weeks after the plumbers repaired my fresh water line, the drain line from the house to the sewer at the street plugged up. Tree roots. I have gone upstairs and threatened the water heater with what I will do if it fails now.)

[SoundGuy]

ctilsie242 wrote:
My one issue with bladders is mold growth.

azrving wrote:
A fresh tank on an RV never drys out either and there are millions of them in use and bleached according to instructions.

There ya go! ... knew it wouldn't be long before some critic would pop up to disagree. :W

[Greyhound_RB]

A big Thank You to all your input. I will end up with a bladder type tank because of limited space. This gives me a lot to research. Hope everybody has a great 2018 year for camping. Rick.

[azrving]

ctilsie242 wrote:
My one issue with bladders is mold growth. Even when empty, they remain wet inside, and wind up growing colonies of the bad stuff unless there is some way to completely open the bladder and air out every square inch of it.

I am a fan of Waterbricks. They cost $35.48 + shipping for two, are easy to air out and sanitize (toss a tablespoon of bleach, add water, shake, let sit overnight, dump), they interlock and stack up to four feet high, can take a heavy pounding, and are individually not too heavy (at 3.5 gallons, weigh about 30 pounds each when full), seal well, and be stored open, so they completely dry out and not invite mold/mildew growth. You can get half bricks, which hold 1.6 gallons.

Of course, they can be a tempting target for thieves, but a tonneau cover should deter opportunists.

You bleach a bladder before storage. A fresh tank on an RV never drys out either and there are millions of them in use and bleached according to instructions. I have bleached 5 gallon jugs too before or after use. The last thing to do is leave a jug open to airborne mold and spores. That's the same type of stuff that causes black stains on roofs and buildings. Standard procedure to sanitize.

[SoundGuy]

ctilsie242 wrote:
My one issue with bladders is mold growth. Even when empty, they remain wet inside, and wind up growing colonies of the bad stuff unless there is some way to completely open the bladder and air out every square inch of it.

My thoughts exactly, though you'll no doubt be criticized by some here who don't agree. When we return from a camping trip my fresh water Aquatainers hang on the garage wall with the caps off for a few days so they dry thoroughly inside. Every once in awhile I'll give 'em a dose of bleach mixture and have never any issues with "funny stuff" growing inside them. :B

ctilsie242 wrote:
I am a fan of Waterbricks.

I'd never heard of Waterbricks but Holy Smokes at only 3.5 gals each I'd need 10 of them to make up the same capacity offered by five 7 gal Aquatainers which I can buy here in Canada for $15 Cdn apiece, ~ $12 USD. :E

ctilsie242 wrote:
Of course, they can be a tempting target for thieves, but a tonneau cover should deter opportunists.

Hard to imagine where you're camping that this would be an issue, has never even crossed my mind that anyone could be bothered walking off with a few water containers. :h Anyway, I do now have a tonneau cover on my Silverado so I guess that's an advantage - out of sight, out of mind. 🙂

[ctilsie242]

My one issue with bladders is mold growth. Even when empty, they remain wet inside, and wind up growing colonies of the bad stuff unless there is some way to completely open the bladder and air out every square inch of it.

I am a fan of Waterbricks. They cost $35.48 + shipping for two, are easy to air out and sanitize (toss a tablespoon of bleach, add water, shake, let sit overnight, dump), they interlock and stack up to four feet high, can take a heavy pounding, and are individually not too heavy (at 3.5 gallons, weigh about 30 pounds each when full), seal well, and be stored open, so they completely dry out and not invite mold/mildew growth. You can get half bricks, which hold 1.6 gallons.

Of course, they can be a tempting target for thieves, but a tonneau cover should deter opportunists.

[DutchmenSport]

Regardless of what version of water transport anyone uses, it really is nice to be able to transport without breaking camp! Often times, at home, when the forecast is predicting inclement weather, not only do I fill the fresh water tank in the camper at home, but I also fill the 35 gallon tank. If we don't loose power (we are on a well), eventually, that water gets pumped into the camper, so it's never water lost.

The versatility of having a container (of any type) is priceless ... more than just for camping! It's saved our keesters many times!

[ependydad]

I use the AQUATANK2 that others have mentioned and Iternant1 pictured. The 60 gallon one fits nicely between the hitch and tailgate.

I use the camper's onboard water pump and my anti-freeze inlet to suck water from it. The downside is that it is deathly slow and uses battery power the whole time. But, no extra parts is convenient.

I did look for a higher flow pump that is 12v AND drinking water safe and it got more expensive that I would prefer pretty quickly.