Transmission rebuild

[NoMoApt]

reverse provides almost no power to the wheels in this winnebago Chalet. I have added fluid to make sure that is not the problem. Forward gears are all strong.
I am guessing this indicates a rebuild?
How much should I expect to pay for this in CA. Its a chevy based 2000 model year.
I assume the trans can be dropped out without removing the engine but this means putting the rig on a lift?
The motor burns oil and shoudl really be rebuilt also but the rig is not worth that much.
Looking for simple solutions...

[burningman]

I’ve owned a lot of old rigs, I can’t justify the $$ for newer ones, worst investment ever.
There are three main things that most often put an older RV on the side of the road.
Transmission, radiator, tires.
No matter what else you save your money on, the first thing you should do is get a good transmission, replace the radiator no matter how fine it looks, and make sure you have good tires.

Heading out on the road in a heavy old vehicle with an unknown old transmission is a good way to have a bad trip. But, it does generate good stories!
I could entertain you for a while...

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Clutch(es) and clutch drum to be exact 🙂

[filrupmark]

You said reverse provides almost no power . If that is so and it has been that way for a while then I would think the reverse clutches are toast and fixing the valve body would probably be out of the question. Good Luck, there are ways of fixing things cheap but sometime it cost more in the long run.

[NoMoApt]

one shop i spoke to said its the clutch. its very common with the 4L80 trans

[bucky]

Reverse is always the weakest gear, regardless of manufacturer. Maybe yours is normal. Go drive a buddies MH or "test drive" one for sale as a comparison.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

There is a lip seal in the transmission extension housing, the tail-shaft. There is also another lip seal in the front of the transmission for the torque converter.

Both the drive shaft and torque converter shaft are finished mirror smooth when new. To get this out of the way, the drive shaft (extension housing) seal surface CAN move back and forth if the drive shaft connects DIRECTLY to the differential. Otherwise the seal rubs on exactly the same spot on both the driveshaft "slip yoke" and torque converter shaft. The "slip yoke" is the slip sleeve mentioned above.

It MUST be absolutely mirror smooth, not the faintest trace of a surface wear ring made by the seal.

Why? Depending on how rough and deep the ring is worn into the mirror finish of the shaft - a new seal will start leaking - anywhere from a week to a year after replacing the new seal and I'm referring to "The Best In The Business" grade seals.

With the drive shaft a new yoke is actually cheaper than a "seal saver" micro thin laminate would be. Seal savers are used on engine harmonic balancer shafts when they get grooved. With a torque converter, I prefer to exchange the thing for a re-man.

Anyway, if the driveshaft slip yoke is grooved, a new seal will not last long. It is impossible to forecast the lifespan of a replacement seal. But suffice it to say a mirror new-like surface will allow a replacement seal to last 10x as long before leaking.

Most units use one or more driveshaft "center support rubber bushing mounts" to support lengths of driveshaft between transmission and differential yoke (AGHH! yet another place where seal wear causes a groove and leakage!)

I despise oil leakage!

Here is a tidbit link for seal saver info...

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/transmission-lip-seal-tool

SAMPLE IMAGE OF SHAFT SEAL DAMAGE

http://www.aesseal.com/sites/default/files/article/lip-seal-damage.jpg

Yeah yeah yeah I noticed too late I did not load the Advanced Post Form. Sue me.

[NoMoApt]

mexicownaderer wrote:
Check condition of driveshaft slip sleeve that fits into the trans extension housing. Might as well cure the leaks.

Can you expand on that a little. How does this cause a leak?

You are obviously very knowledgable but please assume your audience is 5yo :)) slow detailed explanations are always appreciated.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Check shops that have an A.T.R.A. logo in their ad. But go online and see what a crate reman will cost. Reman torque coenverter is a must. Check condition of driveshaft slip sleeve that fits into the trans extension housing. Might as well cure the leaks.

[enblethen]

I would say "get what you pay for".
I would be concerned that the less expensive ones are built for lighter vehicles and standard torque converter.
Any good transmission shop should be able to clean the valve body and change fluid.
Make sure they clean the lines to the transmission cooler. Light air pressure applied to the lines is sufficient.

[NoMoApt]

what would be wrong with a product like this:
http://tomsrivertransmissions.com
$1k + shipping + installation...

or this

https://www.powertraindirect.com/chevy-transmissions-for-sale

or even:

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/4l60e-transmission-rebuilt

[NoMoApt]

thx for the replys,
110k miles. burns about a quart per 1kmiles or a little more
Coach condition... not A1, but many more years of life left for me to use it. fulltiming so gotta keep it going...

I am guessing preious owner never pulled the trans pan off and did anything. Stuck valve... sounds like it could be. yes

I did change the trans fluid when I bought it with 8ok miles on it.

I need to find a chevy trans shop with someone that knows what they are doing. Ill call a around.

$3k for a new trans is too much. I need a solution for half that )

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Scoozah Me, but isn't the condition of the coach itself the deciding factor in justifying the cost of drivetrain repairs? The sales tax on a fifty grand rig ain't cheap. I've not priced crate motors lately, but a crate motor and a reman tranny would really spruce up a nicely maintained coach.

AND it avoids the SMART SYNDROME. Five hundred dollar dealer visits to switch off a check engine light that would not enter into the play with an older unit.

NEW AGE DEFINITION OF "FUN". Play with near bankruptcy to purchase a brand new SMART rig so you can spend 150-hours of a 240 vacation trying to outwit high tech problems that are not resolvable unless you lose five days of work later on playing pinchy-giggle with the dealer, over warranty repairs.

No wonder the public bit the SMART fish hook so hard the tip of the hook is sticking out of their forehead.

[Chum_lee]

NoMoApt wrote:
reverse provides almost no power to the wheels in this Winnebago Chalet. I have added fluid to make sure that is not the problem. Forward gears are all strong.


Looking for simple solutions...

"I am guessing this indicates a rebuild?"

Not really. see www.transtar1.com You don't state the current mileage.

Your problem could be as simple as a stuck relay or valve. Usually the forward gears go first, not reverse. If you can't do the work yourself, since you can drive it, why not take it to a transmission shop familiar with Chev transmissions for a diagnosis? Tell them that you are not going to be buying a rebuilt transmission and want it fixed as cheaply as/if possible without a guarantee. If they do agree to help you, you will bear all responsibility if the unit fails in 1,000 miles. (or less) That's the chance you take. You did indicate that you want it cheap. Do you feel lucky?

Chum lee

[SidecarFlip]

enblethen wrote:
OP you say it burns oil, how many miles between having to add oil.
Noy uncommon for Chev big blocks to us a quart every thousind miles.

Oil is cheap, so it STP.