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Use onboard charger or external charger?

suprz
Explorer
Explorer
When we get our class c, and dry camp for more than a few days, if the batteries need charging, is it better to start the generator and use the onboard charger, or start the generator and plug in an external charger?... Just thinking that I would rather not run the generator for a long time so an external charger might be faster?
Proud father of a US Marine
16 REPLIES 16

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer



Please tell me again, the best way to drive 50 miles to the gas station so I can charge my batteries...

NinerBikes
Explorer
Explorer
OP needs to get their class C first, then determine if there is a problem or not with charging. Who knows, with the cost per watt these days, maybe solar panels is a better option to their existing charge controller and listening to a generator?

Determine your usage first, real world, then determine how to go about keeping things charged.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
As others have said: Depends, It depends on the converter

Magnetek 6300 Upgrade the converter
Paralles 7300 You should consider an upgrade
Progressive Dynamics 9200.. You can not upgrade
Many many others. In between

IF you have a good 3-stage or 3-stage PLUS converter. odds are that is the best way to re-charge.. A well matched 3-stage converter is the very best it gets. (Well 3+ like the 9200)

What is a 3+ A 3 stage with one other feature THe 9200 has "Auto equlization" my other 3-stager has temp compensation. Both put em in the 3+ group.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Oh yes. I have about 13 feet, each way, of 4g wire between the converter and battery, and it readily goes into bulk mode.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

brulaz
Explorer
Explorer
Bobbo wrote:

...
And I have heard a LOT of folks say they couldn't get a WFCO unit into bulk mode.


Thanks. Guess I'm not alone.

So I guess your PD does go into bulk mode?
2014 ORV Timber Ridge 240RKS,8500#,1250# tongue,44K miles
690W Rooftop + 340W Portable Solar,4 GC2s,215Ah@24V
2016 Ram 2500 4x4 RgCab CTD,2507# payload,10.8 mpgUS tow

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
I don't think isolating the two functions is necessary. All of the devices in the RV seem to tolerate the 14+ volts fine, or a LOT of RV's would be replacing parts all the time. I know that the BOOST MODE and EQUALIZATION MODE of my PD4655V is 14.4v, and I haven't had any problems in the 3+ years since I installed the PD unit.

And I have heard a LOT of folks say they couldn't get a WFCO unit into bulk mode.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

brulaz
Explorer
Explorer
Bobbo wrote:

...
If you have a modern 3 stage charger like a Progressive Dynamics (w/charge wizard), just let the onboard charger do the job.

I replaced my fully functional and operating Magnetek 7345 a few years ago with a Progressive Dynamics 4655 and am very happy.


Always thought the problem was in part that the converter and charger functions were not isolated.

Despite what its documentation said, my old WFCO just seemed to sit at 13.6V no matter what condition the battery was in. It would never go into float mode (13.2V), but that seemed to be because of all the small ongoing 12V loads in the trailer. If I pulled all the DC fuses I could force to lower the voltage for a short while but think there were some loads I couldn't remove. Or maybe the WFCO was just a POS.

And I never saw it go into bulk mode (>13.7V) either. But we never drained the batteries that much. And I wondered if high bulk mode voltages (>14V) might be bad for other DC circuits in the trailer?
EDIT: Guess not as there are a lot of Solar systems out there that bulk charge the batteries at >14V on bright days while the system is connected to the DC circuits.

Was thinking that having separate converter and charger would be the best solution? When on 110V isolate the charger and batteries from the DC circuits and let it charge. Let the separate converter handle the DC circuits. EDIT: Again, with solar off-grid charging the loads are always connected but they somehow manage not to over-charge the batteries or over-volt the DC circuits. hmmm ...
2014 ORV Timber Ridge 240RKS,8500#,1250# tongue,44K miles
690W Rooftop + 340W Portable Solar,4 GC2s,215Ah@24V
2016 Ram 2500 4x4 RgCab CTD,2507# payload,10.8 mpgUS tow

mlts22
Explorer
Explorer
Very good thing pointed out. The OP needs to ask the dealer, if not the RV maker. I was looking at one brand of "C" with a good reputation... and surprisingly enough, it came with a single stage converter, and because of the space premium, only one of the "dogbone" Magnum Energy converter/inverters would fit that area. Maybe have it financed as part of the package, since a converter will pay for itself when you don't have to replace batteries every season.

Canadian_Rainbi
Explorer
Explorer
Canadian Rainbirds wrote:
If you read his post carefully it seems that he doesn't have a class C yet: "When we get our class c. . . . " so he likely doesn't have the required answers yet either. But now he knows what to ask the dealer!

Canadian_Rainbi
Explorer
Explorer
If you read his post carefully it seems that he doesn't have a class C yet: "When we get our class c. . . . " so he likely doesn't have the required answers yet either. But know he knows what to ask the dealer!

mena661
Explorer
Explorer

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
Tell us what converter brand and model and the portable charger brand and model. No one can possibly answer the question accurately without this info.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

mlts22
Explorer
Explorer
For boondocking with a "C", I'd look into a few things:

1: Check your converter. Chuck it if it is a single stage model. If it is, chuck it. A couple C-notes gets you a five-stage "charge wizard" converter. If you are willing to pay more, you can get a converter/inverter like Magnum Energy's MMS (50 amp, four stage converter, 1000 watt, pure sine wave inverter.) This is the first thing someone should do. In fact, when I buy my next MH, this will be done by the local dealer.

2: Consider a solar system. A class "C" can handle at least 100-200 watts of solar, perhaps a lot more. Add a MPPT controller that does multi-stages, and that will allow much longer boondocking trips without the need of constant generator running.

3: If you want a way to maintain a battery, Battery Minder sells an 8 amp multi-stage maintainer with a desulfate mode that can be permanently installed by the batteries. This can come in handy if you have a very low wattage connection, or are using a very long extension cord when you have the motorhome in storage (and plugging into the charger may overload things.)

4: Depending on batteries, sometimes you can run the onboard charger and an external charger. However, this depends on the type of batteries. AGMs may be able to handle this better than flooded cel.

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
Which is faster charging ?;.; Only you have the answer to that.

You gave no info on your converter charger, nor any info on the
external charger you mite be talking about. How could we possibly know
the answer ?
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.