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Water Heater when draining leaks into trailer

JoshInReno
Explorer
Explorer
I am going to do my best to describe the situation, so please bear with me.

When I pull the rod out of my water heater to drain, the outside edge of the flashing used to house the water heater is diverting water back into the trailer onto the floor under where the water heater sits. There is a raised lip that the water being drained encounters on its way out. Is there a product on the market that will somehow elevate the water flow over this lip?

Found a picture online that better illustrates what I am talking about:



See where the tape has been installed on the bottom with the raised edge underneath it? That is where mine leaks under and into the trailer. Maybe the Eternabond tape is the answer I've been looking for.
2016 F250 Crew Cab Longbed 4x4
2017 Grey Wolf 26DBH
17 REPLIES 17

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
How does he put the cover back on..

Simple. after draining the tank he removes the pipe (I lay mine on the bottom of the compartment, or rather I did when before mod) and puts the nylon plug or anode rod back in.. You only screw in the pipe while draining the waterheater

Oh you want it COLD not hot, and screw it in quickly.. You may get some water inside, but only a small amount.

Another option would be a half pipe.. try 2" sawed in half under the outlet while you screw in the extension.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Explorer II
That is no big deal if you have a tube of self leveling dicor handy.

Way I did mine.

mobeewan
Explorer
Explorer
The Eternabond will probably work but you might want to go higher up the sides with it. I have replaced the Suburban water heater on my trailer before and the proper installation includes caulking between the galvanized door / wall flange and the galvanized water heater flange. This keeps both water draining from the tank and rain water leaking around the door from leaking between the flanges into the interior of the trailer.

I noticed on the old water heater that the caulk was clear and although still flexible was too hard to be silicone. I contacted Northwood to find out what they used when they installed it in the trailer and they said they used clear Proflex RV caulk. I found that the local Ace Hardware store had a tube and purchased it. After sealing the two flanges together I went ahead and reinstalled using beautiful butyl tape is Northwood did.

RAS43
Explorer III
Explorer III
DutchmenSport wrote:
wa8yxm wrote:
Get a 1/2 inch piece of pipe oh say six inches long give or take an inch or two (exact length matters not) remove plug and immed insert pipe and screw it in.

Alt

Now I have an atwood so no metal plugs.. I got a CPVC to Brass adapter then put a quarter turn valve on that, And I screw the pipe in BEFORE I open the valve .


I understand adding length to the drain plug, but 6 inches? How will he put the outside cover back on? And, are you saying leave the extension in there all the time? What about the anode rod if he has one.

Also, if you are suggesting pulling the plug and anode rod and then inserting the extension, he's still going get water draining in the bottom of the metal frame (pan), and it's still going to drain inside the camper while he pulls the plug to put in the insert.

It's a noble idea, but I just don't see how that would work. ????


It works very well in my case. I have a 6" piece of plastic pipe with an elbow on one end. I loosen the anode rod and as I remove it I insert the pipe. Very little water will come out if the relief valve has not been opened until the pipe is screwed in place. A rag will catch that water. I have the elbow so I can drain the water into a bucket for use in the yard.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
1/2 inch is for Atwood.
Suburbans are larger. I think they are one inch.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
wa8yxm wrote:
Get a 1/2 inch piece of pipe oh say six inches long give or take an inch or two (exact length matters not) remove plug and immed insert pipe and screw it in.

Alt

Now I have an atwood so no metal plugs.. I got a CPVC to Brass adapter then put a quarter turn valve on that, And I screw the pipe in BEFORE I open the valve .


I understand adding length to the drain plug, but 6 inches? How will he put the outside cover back on? And, are you saying leave the extension in there all the time? What about the anode rod if he has one.

Also, if you are suggesting pulling the plug and anode rod and then inserting the extension, he's still going get water draining in the bottom of the metal frame (pan), and it's still going to drain inside the camper while he pulls the plug to put in the insert.

It's a noble idea, but I just don't see how that would work. ????

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Get a 1/2 inch piece of pipe oh say six inches long give or take an inch or two (exact length matters not) remove plug and immed insert pipe and screw it in.

Alt

Now I have an atwood so no metal plugs.. I got a CPVC to Brass adapter then put a quarter turn valve on that, And I screw the pipe in BEFORE I open the valve .
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
I use the hose adaptor.

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
Mine may be silicone, but is white, and I was guessing dicor, since it is quite thick. Good thing it does not leak, as a rain from the right direction, fills it to run over and out. I later use a sponge to remove the fair amount left about plug hole deep. Makes me wonder about the fridge and furnace vent, but never been a problem that I know of.

OP...you need something better than that tape to seal.

Jerry

Johno02
Explorer
Explorer
Use a folded aluminum pie pan to make a shield to divert the water. And when you drain, lift the lever on the pop-off valve, but be sure and stand back. Most of the water will shoot out about a foot. and lots of silicone is good also.
Noel and Betty Johnson (and Harry)

2005 GulfStream Ultra Supreme, 1 Old grouch, 1 wonderful wife, and two silly poodles.

wolfe10
Explorer
Explorer
Before pulling the anode, just take a piece of aluminum foil and make a "chute" to direct water outboard.

It will slip up under the boss into which the anode is screwed.
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/

filrupmark
Explorer
Explorer
Our previous fiver leaked inside while draining the water heater. I sealed with silicone. Also after I unscrew the drain plug I then screw a 8" long nipple in to allow the water to drain totally outside.
2004 Ford F250 Super Duty 6.0 Diesel, Bilstein 4600 Shocks, 16K B&W Patriot, Michelin M&S
2014 Augusta Flex AF34RS Trailair Tri Glide pinbox,
JT Strong Arms , Bridgestone R250'S, KYB Monotube Gas shocks
Finally a smooth ride !!!

downtheroad
Explorer
Explorer
They must have used 2 full sized tubes of silicone on mine....it's ugly, but it doesn't leak when I drain it.
"If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane."

Arctic Fox 25Y
GMC Duramax
Blue Ox SwayPro

JoshInReno
Explorer
Explorer
ScottG wrote:
From the factory they use silicone and lots of it.
It's a good location for silicone. It doesn't see UV and it can stand up to being under water.


That's a good idea.
2016 F250 Crew Cab Longbed 4x4
2017 Grey Wolf 26DBH