Way Elite solar charger/controller malfunction

[way2roll]

Upon getting my RV out of storage - 2023 FR sunseeker 2400 mbs - (was only left alone for 2 weeks) the chassis battery was almost completely dead. The solar is supposed to keep both batteries topped off. The way elite controller is showing all zeros for the chassis battery and it seems to be stuck in night mode. Also, some of the controller wires to the battery look burnt near the connections. There seems to be no information on way elite troubleshooting, manuals etc. I think they are out of business. I unplugged the controller panel in hopes to reset it but it didn’t work. Is there a plug and play replacement for this? It's a 100w panel with a dual charger/controller. So many reviews/issues with the way Elite so I definitely want a replacement without breaking the bank and easy to install. Solar is not my forte. Hopefully some of the old gang are still here to chime in. Posting this in the FR forum as well and maybe IRV2.  Thanks.

[StirCrazy]

heck my 2014 f35 can sit for 2 months and be good.  does that every winter. 🙄

[StirCrazy]

to bad they wouldn't let you pick the brand, If you have the choice out of thoes two I would go with the go power, even though I wouldn't recomend them to some one spending their own money.  not the same company they were when they were Canadian owned.

[opnspaces]

Wish I could help, but my only solar knowledge is rooftop inverter based on a house.

[StirCrazy]

what controler is it? it might be the perfect opertunity to upgrade.

[way2roll]

It's a Way Elite - which is apparently out of business stemming from a lot of problems according to other forums. Yes, I need to replace it. That's really the crux of my question, with what?

FR is looking into a good faith replacement under warranty (I am a few months out of my factory warranty). If they don't cover it then yes, I need to replace it myself. Doesn't need to be expensive or complicated. The controller is really only for a trickle charge to keep the batts topped off in storage. I have one 100w panel, and 1 house batt and one chassis battery. (Technically I have 2 house batts in parallel, but the controller sees it as one).  Based on that I really only need a 20A controller with slots for dual battery and I would like a separate readout panel - if anything to ensure it's working and cover the existing hole for the readout panel on the one I have now. Most have a readout on the controller itself, which is kind of silly since it's buried under the cabinets where you'll never be able to read it. I don't know much about controllers but from what I am learning, they are all pretty much the same with some being better quality than others. Ones for dual batteries seem to be harder to find, and ones with a separate readout panel even harder. And like I said, I don't know good from bad.  

So, any recommendations for a controller with a remote readout for a 100W panel, and 2 batts. 

[StirCrazy]

THIS one looks like it will fit the bill.

do you have any plans to maybe add more solar later or change to a bigger panel?  I would ge tthe 30 amp version, then you could change your 100 to a 350 or 450watt panel, this will let you bulk charge the main bank and trickel charge the secondary at the same time and they can be different battery types.  so you could have LFP for your house and a normal lead acid for the starting.  

you can buy a remote monitor for it or just use bluetooth i believe

[way2roll]

I looked at that brand but it does not have the remote readout panel. I don't have any plans to add more solar. We never really boondock. I really just need it to maintain batts in storage. And I don't know how long we will keep this RV. As we think more about full timing, I see us buying a larger rig in a year or so. 

I did see this setup on Amazon: 

Controller 

[StirCrazy]

It does have the remote panel I checked, I think it is a optional add on but it is availble.  looks like you got it covered anyways, not to often you'll get a good faith out of a rv company.. 

I would keep it in the back of your mind that a 100watt panel is pretty much a trickel charger and now your splitting it between two different loads, so you want to make sure you kill any draws when it is in storage, which you probably do.  

[way2roll]

Yeah, I turn off everything, batt disconnect etc. It doesn't get too cold here and the Mercedes chassis battery is beneath the floor pan between the front seats so really challenging to remove each time. That said, the Mercedes does some weird stuff and a lot of electronics so I wouldn't be surprised if there are phantom draws despite the batt disconnect. Still the solar trickle charge would be enough to keep it topped off - if it was working. Thankful to Forest River, hopefully the replacement and new battery will solve the problem. 

[MNtundraRet]

You have a very serious short somewhere in your system. The burnt wires fuse did not blow soon enough to save your circuits. 

[way2roll]

So, examining it more closely, the "burnt" sections are in each place where the heat shrink tubing was put over the connection and it looks like they got a little happy with the torch. It's a little scorched on the wire insulation - outside rather than coming from the wire itself. Fuses are good, so I think I can rule out a short. After I posted this, I called my Dealer and FR. Both of which I have been very happy with so far and my second FR product purchased from them. It's only just out of warranty so the FR rep said he can probably get a good faith replacement for me and he'll get back to me. On the off chance they can't/won't I'll still need a recommendation on an aftermarket charger/controller. Seems they run anywhere from $50-$200 and I wouldn't know a good one from Shinola.