XPower 1750 Plus Inverter

[Lenny_K]

When I turn the inerter on it shows input voltage but no output and the red fault light comes on. I do not have anything drawing on it and the fault light remains. It would not be caused by thermal shutdown or unit overload. So the only option is that the output is short circuited.
So my question is is there anything like a fuse inside that can be changed or just resistors that have failed?

[BFL13]

Don't know about all of them. Both of mine are like this--scroll down bottom right -- it has a band width so it is hard to pin down. My big 250AH AGM has the same graph in its specs.

Trojan 6v AGMs have lower voltages per SOCs--see second link below

Both of mine (different brands and sizes) are in the middle of the band when I measured it in real life. I got 13.06 full and 12.4 half full (as seen on Trimetric AH counter)

So 13 vs 12.7 and 12.4 vs 12.1 for a 0.3 diff.

http://www.wegosolar.com/products.php?product=SKR%252d125AGM-Stark-AGM-12V-Solar-Battery-Sealed-125A

http://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/T105-AGM_Reliant_DS_Final.pdf

[brulaz]

BFL13 wrote:

...
You want to keep above 50% SOC, but that is more like 12.4v with AGMs ...
With the AGMs you are at 12.4 and drop to 11.6 and only get down to 11.3, no alarm. (Actually is better than that what with the lower impedance of an AGM)
...

I've heard that most AGMs have less V drop under load (cause of the lower impedance), but didn't realize that their 50% SOC voltage was that much higher (12.4 versus 12.1).

Is this generally true of all AGMs?

[Lenny_K]

I have never had the low voltage alarm go off on me but with a bigger draw I could see that happening.

[BFL13]

Lenny K wrote:
Good point about seeing a 150 amp draw vice the 120 amp draw that I am actually seeing on my Trimetric. I have 2/0 wires on my batteries and going to the inverter. I looked up the wiring requirement for the Go Power 2000 PSW and that is what it requires.

The wiring (and its correct fuse) is good to go with the higher amps then.

In theory with the higher amps you will get more of a voltage drop, which means you hit the 11v inverter alarm at a higher SOC than before. If this limits your lifestyle, the cure is to have more of a battery bank in AH, or go AGM.

[Lenny_K]

shastagary wrote:
i have the same XPower 1750 plus inverter if it shows the fault red light without anything plugged into any of the ac outlets when you turn it on there is something wrong with it. mine still works good and it has been a good inverter they were made for xantrex and were a good price at the time i bought it from Costco.

Thanks for comfirming my thoughts.

[Lenny_K]

Good point about seeing a 150 amp draw vice the 120 amp draw that I am actually seeing on my Trimetric. I have 2/0 wires on my batteries and going to the inverter. I looked up the wiring requirement for the Go Power 2000 PSW and that is what it requires.

[BFL13]

Lenny K wrote:

BFL13 wrote:
If the MSW 1750 would work, you would keep that, but if not you will get PSW. Must be love of PSW--not logical 🙂

Note that a 1000w MW on PSW will want its full 1500w input, but only wants maybe 1200 on MSW and cooks a little slower. So if your MSW 1750 is maxed out running the MW now, a 2000w PSW might be too small.

The reason I would keep the MSW if I could get working again for no cost is why throw it away if it's still working.
Since I am unlikely to get it working again the reason for going PSW is that it is an all around better product. I'm also tired of hearing my GFCI humming all the time when I have the inverter on. With PSW I would be able to charge my drill without starting my generator as the MSW burns out the charger.
The PSW will run my microwave at full power which will undoubtedly extend the life of the microwave.
My 1750 MSW ran the microwave without ever kicking out so I think the 2000 PSW should have no problem either.

Makes sense to me! However, you will be pulling more like 150 amps instead of about 120 amps to run the same MW (as you see on the monitor now). No big deal, but as part of the new set-up, could need fatter wires and a bigger amp fuse.

When the time comes and you just won the Lotto, go AGM. You want to keep above 50% SOC, but that is more like 12.4v with AGMs so if you have say 0.8 voltage drop from your wiring, you can go lower with the same wiring without hitting the low voltage alarm on the inverter.

Say you can now go to 12.1 for 50% (Trojan specs) and with the 0.8 drop see 11.3 and while running it falls to 11.0 and alarms. With the AGMs you are at 12.4 and drop to 11.6 and only get down to 11.3, no alarm. (Actually is better than that what with the lower impedance of an AGM)

So you could go down past 50% on the AGMs and still not hit the 11v inverter alarm. About 30% SOC instead of 50% which gives you lots of wiggle room.

[Lenny_K]

BFL13 wrote:
If the MSW 1750 would work, you would keep that, but if not you will get PSW. Must be love of PSW--not logical 🙂

Note that a 1000w MW on PSW will want its full 1500w input, but only wants maybe 1200 on MSW and cooks a little slower. So if your MSW 1750 is maxed out running the MW now, a 2000w PSW might be too small.

The reason I would keep the MSW if I could get working again for no cost is why throw it away if it's still working.
Since I am unlikely to get it working again the reason for going PSW is that it is an all around better product. I'm also tired of hearing my GFCI humming all the time when I have the inverter on. With PSW I would be able to charge my drill without starting my generator as the MSW burns out the charger.
The PSW will run my microwave at full power which will undoubtedly extend the life of the microwave.
My 1750 MSW ran the microwave without ever kicking out so I think the 2000 PSW should have no problem either.

[Lenny_K]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

I wish Can Tire did a PSW larger than 1000 watts.

Since they don't, I'd go with Samlex or Go Power.

I did have wonderful results with a Cobra MSW intended to run motors.

Lenny K wrote:
They are a good buy, but if I don't get this one working I'm going to go with a 2000 pure sine.

Yes it is too bad that Can Tire doesn't make a larger PSW.
I plan on buying the Go Power as it allows up to 16.5 volts before it kicks out. Looks like a good inverter and I don't need a inverter/charger.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Even some Yugos went as long as a couple of weeks without doing a Laurel & Hardy.

Cheap high frequency inverters are great for emergency backup. Sort of like a leaky bald spare tire. Chew & Spit. Perfectly fine as long as a person does not demand name brand durability.

[shastagary]

i have the same XPower 1750 plus inverter if it shows the fault red light without anything plugged into any of the ac outlets when you turn it on there is something wrong with it. mine still works good and it has been a good inverter they were made for xantrex and were a good price at the time i bought it from Costco.

[BFL13]

If the MSW 1750 would work, you would keep that, but if not you will get PSW. Must be love of PSW--not logical 🙂

Note that a 1000w MW on PSW will want its full 1500w input, but only wants maybe 1200 on MSW and cooks a little slower. So if your MSW 1750 is maxed out running the MW now, a 2000w PSW might be too small.

If it is only a couple of lower watt items that actually need PSW, you can do the two inverter trick and save money. Get a small PSW inverter and a big MSW inverter. I did that set-up back when. Both inverters on the same battery bank.

I plugged the shore power cord into the small inverter so the smaller items could run on the receptacles as usual, and ran an extension cord from the big inverter around outside back to the galley area and back inside to plug the MW or toaster or kettle in.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

I wish Can Tire did a PSW larger than 1000 watts.

Since they don't, I'd go with Samlex or Go Power.

I did have wonderful results with a Cobra MSW intended to run motors.

Lenny K wrote:
They are a good buy, but if I don't get this one working I'm going to go with a 2000 pure sine.

[Lenny_K]

I have been lucky with this cheapie MEXICOWANDERER. It worked flawlessly for the past 12 years until now so I can't complain. However I agree that usually cheap does not last long or perform well.

[Lenny_K]

fischer wrote:
Found when I searched for xpower 1750 manual. The manual states what the light means

I do not have anything drawing on it so I don't think it the faultlight would be caused by thermal shutdown or unit overload.
What I was asking was about you mentioning, I think you were trying to say, about a reset button. My manual doesn't say anything about one and I don't visually see one.