I love cruising through the "what did you do to your camper today" thread, I figured I'd add a "what did you do to your truck today".
I'm sure that many of you are like me....and your truck that you use to haul your camper gets a lot of special attention to make sure it's in tip-top shape for your adventures.
I'll start out.....
Today I mounted 2 PIAA 520 Fog lights and 2 PIAA Driving lights to my winch bumper, and aimed them.
This evening, I received a box containing torklift stableload bumpstops. Those will have to wait for another day....we've got a blizzard going on here.
I'm sure that many of you are like me....and your truck that you use to haul your camper gets a lot of special attention to make sure it's in tip-top shape for your adventures.
I'll start out.....
Today I mounted 2 PIAA 520 Fog lights and 2 PIAA Driving lights to my winch bumper, and aimed them.
This evening, I received a box containing torklift stableload bumpstops. Those will have to wait for another day....we've got a blizzard going on here.
notsobigjoe wrote:Grit dog wrote:
Technically, it's still a Chevy! :B
Funny you should say that. I thought it WAS a Chevy when we bought it.
Someone had changed all the badges and trim to Chevy.
And I was so involved with looking at the truck itself, didnโt even give the title a second glance.
First clue was when I removed the tailgate trim panel ,also replaced with a Chevy one, and the original appearing tailgate had GMC stamped in it.
Further inspection showed the glove box tag with โSierraโ package.
And the grill is the aftermarket one you see in the pic, so that was no clue either. I re-used it and just fitted a GMC logo to it.
We have a 2 year old Northstar 12 STC with a Midi Heki skylight. We got back from a camping trip last week, and I unloaded the camper and started washing. As I was washing the front, I notice what looked like a crack on the frame of the skylight near the hinge. Climbed up on top, and sure enough, the skylight frame was broken the entire length from hinge to hinge. Not sure what happened, as we have never opened the skylight since it was new, and it didn't show any signs or scratches like I hit something.
So after a little research and finding out a replacement window & frame is over $1000, I decided to see if I could fix it. I used 3M Panel Bonding Adhesive, I guess this is what car door skins & other body parts are installed with instead of welding these days. My buddy that owns a body shop swears by it.
I was able to return the cracked plastic to stronger than original. Luckily this part of the hatch isn't visible when the hatch is installed.
Still not sure what caused the cracking, but I do remember when we got home from the trip, I was surprised to see the window latch bar Under the latch button instead of above the latch button as usual. Maybe the hatch was flapping in the wind on our trip home?
Anyway, glad I caught it as we're leaving on a 12,000 mile trip from Buffalo, NY throughout the Pacific Northwest, up to Alaska and back starting in a week.
So after a little research and finding out a replacement window & frame is over $1000, I decided to see if I could fix it. I used 3M Panel Bonding Adhesive, I guess this is what car door skins & other body parts are installed with instead of welding these days. My buddy that owns a body shop swears by it.
I was able to return the cracked plastic to stronger than original. Luckily this part of the hatch isn't visible when the hatch is installed.
Still not sure what caused the cracking, but I do remember when we got home from the trip, I was surprised to see the window latch bar Under the latch button instead of above the latch button as usual. Maybe the hatch was flapping in the wind on our trip home?
Anyway, glad I caught it as we're leaving on a 12,000 mile trip from Buffalo, NY throughout the Pacific Northwest, up to Alaska and back starting in a week.
I upgraded from an old style digital that was failing...(10 years old), to the new style 7 color. They also have better sending transducers and in this application, I used a banjo bolt with an upgraded snubber valve right at the vp44 pump. At the rear of the filter housing, I went with another banjo bolt with the old school stone snubber and a tradition gauge (glycerin filled), that shows me pump pressure pre filter. Truck is 2nd gen cummins with a ddrp FASS fuel pump...so far so good.
7.3driver wrote:
Weight truck/camper
Truck: 1999 F350,crewcab, dully, 7.3 w/automatic, fuel tank full (36-37 gal.).
Camper: 2000 Bigfoot 25c10.6, 1 battery, no propane tanks, 2500 generator and foam mattress. Other wise empty.
No driver.
10660 lbs.total. Front axle 4140 lbs. Rear axle 6520.
Max 11200 lbs on the door tag.
Fully loaded.
Front - 3620 rating - 4400
Rear - 7040 rating - 6200
GVWR - 9500
Truck with empty camper - 9980
Did I mention I love my new shocks? :B
Grit dog wrote:S Davis wrote:
Installed a 51 Gallon aux tank for a total of 87 gallons.
Nice clean install!
But why all the extra parts and filter? Not down with gravity fill?
Whatโs the top line off the tank for?
I wanted a filter to catch the condensation from the metal aux tank before going into the main tank, and while I was at it decided to add a pump. It is on a 15 minute timer and will pump a little over 7 gallons before shutting off. The pipe on top is a vent with roll over valve.
