100k Maintenance?

[mekkerl]

I am due for an oil change and a new fuel filter.
I am a few hundred miles short of 100,000.
Besides looking in the manual...what do you recommend I have done 'preventative-maintenance-wise' when I have the truck at the dealership for the other two items?
Flushing systems?
Replace small engine components?
I have no other issues right now...so maybe don't touch?!

[dodge_guy]

ib516 wrote:
Plenty of how to videos by knowledgeable folks on YouTube. The trick is sorting them out from the dude who take video in portrait mode on their cell phone and don't have a clue.

LOL, ya, those are the ones I ignore. If they can’t get that little detail nailed down, what others have they missed!

[ib516]

Plenty of how to videos by knowledgeable folks on YouTube. The trick is sorting them out from the dude who take video in portrait mode on their cell phone and don't have a clue.

[mekkerl]

Update:

So I arrived at the Dealership this morning at EXACTLY 99,900 miles (very weird).
Long story short, I did a TON of research and video watching and reading on all of this over the past week. I had the dealership do the Oil Change/Lube...and had them do both the front and rear differential fluid changes.

I've already ordered the supplies for myself to perform the Fuel Filter Change, the Transfer Case Fluid Change, and the Transmission Fluid dump and External Filter change.

I'll be using the Transynd Oil, which I found out I could get locally. And will be doing the double-dump method...which will help get closer to a full exchange.

I hope to tackle this stuff this weekend!
(fingers crossed it all goes well)

[ktmrfs]

LIKE2BUILD wrote:

mekkerl wrote:
Geesh $1k to $1,500????!!!! ....

The slimmer wallet is the biggest hesitation I have in bringing this to a dealer.

I'm by all means handy with tools, but this big truck worries me as we have the big trip this year.

I didn't mean to scare you and I could be shooting high, but the $250 price tag just for all the fluids is probably about right. You might call your dealer and tell them the list and get a bid for the work just so you know.

Here's what you can definitely do at home:

Oil Change
You can get oil and filter for about $50 if you use standard 15W40 or about $75 for 5W40 synthetic. A big drain pan and a filter wrench are all you need.

Fuel Filter
This is easy too. Drain filter, remove filter, spin on new filter, cycle key 4-5 times to prime (off-run position-off) then start.

Axles
The front axle has a lower drain plug so it's easy to service. The rear will need the differential cover removed. Or, you can get a vacuum oil extractor like this Topsider multi-fluid extractor and just suck the gear oil out through the fill plug. I use one of these on my boat and it works great. If the diff cover isn't leaking, this is a great option for pulling out the oil.

Transfer Case
This is also a drain and fill plug setup. Remove both plugs to drain it. Replace the drain, fill from the top until it runs out, replace the fill plug.....done and done. You MUST use the GM Auto Trak II T-case fluid. It's really pricey ($10/bottle) and it takes about 1 1/4 bottles so you have to buy 2 of them. But, paying the $20 and 30 minutes of your time will probably save you about $100.

Brake line flush
Bleeding the brake lines can't get any easier than using the Motive Products Power Bleeder. Use a turkey baster to remove fluid from the master cylinder then top off with fresh DOT3 fluid. Put the master cylinder cap adapter on then pump up the bleeder to about 15PSI. Now go to the right rear, open the bleeder valve and drain into a cup until it's clean, clear fluid coming out. Now cycle to the left rear then front and you're done. Fresh fluid all around.

Transmission
I believe servicing the Allison transmission only involves removing the spin-on filter and then topping off the fluid. No R&R of the pan and internal filter.

So yes, for the DYI tasks you'll have to spend about $125 in tools (bleeder and extractor). But, you buy them once and you can use them for many years.

Really the only things I think you might want to hadn off to the dealer are the power steering, coolant flush, brake check, and belts/pulleys. Both the power steering and the coolant can get really messy and there's no good way to dispose of DexCool at home. If you're not comfortable inspecting brakes and belts then you probably will want a 'trained eye' to look over that. But.....just about any shop can do these things, it doesn't have to be a dealer.

Just an FYI.....if you do a complete brake pad and rotor swap on these trucks, you'll spend $550 in parts alone! Yeah, I choked too as I typed that but I've bought the parts before. That cost is another one of the driving factors of why I do almost all of my own work.

KJ

IMHO it's easier to suck fluid out of the rear diff than to pull the cover. Allison pan has a drain plug. Make sure you use the GM "grape juice" in the rear diff for the eaton autolocker.


the duramax doesn't have the autotrack system, std 4x4, no diff in the tansfer case. GM isn't real clear but make sure you use the correct fluid in the transfer case.

you shouldn't need new brake pads till near 200K miles, and even then rotors should be fine. Stick with stock pads or Akebono which supplies the factory pads.

[Grit_dog]

1-3 years, do the oil, fuel filter, top off the windshield juice and drive it if you’re only on the “ain’t broke don’t fix it” train. It’ll last a while still.
Unless your 3 years still 20-30k a year. Look at your situation and if all else fails then look at the (gasp) owners manual for maint periods.
It’s hard to decide things like this for others. And this is why buying used one should judge the owner as much as the vehicle so you don’t get a “wasn’t broke, so didn’t fix it” truck.

[DutchmenSport]

Well, there you have it. You basically need a new truck! (OH! ... just kidding!)

Really, you have a working list. Now go talk to your GM mechanic. See what they recommend. If you go prepared to do any and all of these things, and they say it's not necessary yet, then I'd wait.

You're prepared to pay, no see how much you really don't need to pay (yet), that can wait for another day. If they say do it all, then ... there ya go. You have the final word on what you can afford and what is most important and what could wait till the next oil change or even the one after that.

Your call, but after all the advise here, I'd now ask my GM repair shop.

[LIKE2BUILD]

mekkerl wrote:
Geesh $1k to $1,500????!!!! ....

The slimmer wallet is the biggest hesitation I have in bringing this to a dealer.

I'm by all means handy with tools, but this big truck worries me as we have the big trip this year.

I didn't mean to scare you and I could be shooting high, but the $250 price tag just for all the fluids is probably about right. You might call your dealer and tell them the list and get a bid for the work just so you know.

Here's what you can definitely do at home:

Oil Change
You can get oil and filter for about $50 if you use standard 15W40 or about $75 for 5W40 synthetic. A big drain pan and a filter wrench are all you need.

Fuel Filter
This is easy too. Drain filter, remove filter, spin on new filter, cycle key 4-5 times to prime (off-run position-off) then start.

Axles
The front axle has a lower drain plug so it's easy to service. The rear will need the differential cover removed. Or, you can get a vacuum oil extractor like this Topsider multi-fluid extractor and just suck the gear oil out through the fill plug. I use one of these on my boat and it works great. If the diff cover isn't leaking, this is a great option for pulling out the oil.

Transfer Case
This is also a drain and fill plug setup. Remove both plugs to drain it. Replace the drain, fill from the top until it runs out, replace the fill plug.....done and done. You MUST use the GM Auto Trak II T-case fluid. It's really pricey ($10/bottle) and it takes about 1 1/4 bottles so you have to buy 2 of them. But, paying the $20 and 30 minutes of your time will probably save you about $100.

Brake line flush
Bleeding the brake lines can't get any easier than using the Motive Products Power Bleeder. Use a turkey baster to remove fluid from the master cylinder then top off with fresh DOT3 fluid. Put the master cylinder cap adapter on then pump up the bleeder to about 15PSI. Now go to the right rear, open the bleeder valve and drain into a cup until it's clean, clear fluid coming out. Now cycle to the left rear then front and you're done. Fresh fluid all around.

Transmission
I believe servicing the Allison transmission only involves removing the spin-on filter and then topping off the fluid. No R&R of the pan and internal filter.

So yes, for the DYI tasks you'll have to spend about $125 in tools (bleeder and extractor). But, you buy them once and you can use them for many years.

Really the only things I think you might want to hadn off to the dealer are the power steering, coolant flush, brake check, and belts/pulleys. Both the power steering and the coolant can get really messy and there's no good way to dispose of DexCool at home. If you're not comfortable inspecting brakes and belts then you probably will want a 'trained eye' to look over that. But.....just about any shop can do these things, it doesn't have to be a dealer.

Just an FYI.....if you do a complete brake pad and rotor swap on these trucks, you'll spend $550 in parts alone! Yeah, I choked too as I typed that but I've bought the parts before. That cost is another one of the driving factors of why I do almost all of my own work.

KJ

[time2roll]

1 to 3 years? Change the oil if it is indicated on the oil life monitor or has been 10,000 miles. Otherwise just run it. Keep the oil topped off.

That truck is new and not going to conk out on you. If you do major work get it done 60 days before the trip so it will show up before you roll.

[mekkerl]

Geesh $1k to $1,500????!!!! -- I am definitely usually one to follow the 'If it ain't broke' mindset. And I see keeping this truck for 1-3 more years...as eventually we'll move into a Class A cause the four kids are only getting bigger and fitting in the truck gets tighter and tighter each year!

The slimmer wallet is the biggest hesitation I have in bringing this to a dealer. But I am thinking at least it will get done correctly and with the proper fluids. And it will go on the trucks GM 'history report' to help with resale.

I'm by all means handy with tools, but this big truck worries me as we have the big trip this year. Would hate for it to conk out on me cause of something I did!

[LIKE2BUILD]

mekkerl wrote:
Wow -- great information from you all!

Seems this is the list I should give to the Dealership:
(totally NOT looking forward to the bill with this Duramax!)

Oil Change & Oil Filter
Fuel Filter Change
Transmission Fluid Flush & Filter
Brake Fluid Flush
Coolant System Flush
Power Steering Fluid Flush
Rear Differential Flush
Front Differential Flush
Transfer Case Flush
Rear Axle Lube

Inspect Brakes
Inspect Belts

Did I list everything correctly?!

The one thing you didn't list is a seriously lighter wallet. I'm willing to bet if you give that list to the dealer, the minimum price on the bill will be $1,000.....probably closer to $1500. All total, it's probably $250 in just fluids alone.

If you can turn a wrench you can do all of this yourself.

KJ

[4x4ord]

How much longer do you want to keep the truck?

[Dave_H_M]

BobKrogstie wrote:
Other than the scheduled maintenance items, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I am with Bob here. But if dong all the stuff recommended makes you feel at ease do it. For sure it will lighten your bill fold.

[Grit_dog]

Make sure you don’t get a trans “flush” as in power flush. You want fluid replacement.
On the Alli, drain the pan, refill. Unhook cooler line, run engine couple seconds, replace qty lost, repeat a couple more times until you get new red fluid coming out.
And I’m not much of an oil debate person. But I believe there’s truth to using Transynd in the Allison. That is if you plan on keeping it a lot more miles.

[Grit_dog]

^ Pretty much spot on. You’re doubled up on rear diff service and I’d just put a new serp belt on. I’ve never lost one but old habits die hard about carrying a spare fan belt and alternator belt.
I’ll add, I’d find a competent local shop that can give you a decent price to do the work.
It’s all simple backyard mechanic stuff and unless you have a dealer that treats you fairly, I expect a dealer to be licking their chops with a list like that.