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1996 Ford F250 camper- Long post...

kjenckes
Explorer
Explorer
Good morning all. This post is to make a few observations and ask a few questions that I think a lot of folks could benefit from. I have read everything I can here and appreciate the thoughts and experiences of all. Mostly all. Please do not preach.

My current rig:
1996 Ford F250 7.3L Powerstroke diesel, crew cab, 4wd with the weird Ford "short bed" which is 7 feet. I have Supersprings added onto my leaf springs. These are the only mod I've done for the suspension. Happi-Jac tie downs.

2006 Northstar 850SC, rear bumper, AC, roof racks, 100W solar panel attached to the racks, roof ladder, 1 group 29 battery, full bath, electric jacks and camper is always loaded with gear ready to load up up and pull out. Camper is made for SB with storage boxes and lights. It fits perfect on the 7 foot bed. 8 1/2 feet long and 7 feet wide.

The truck settles 2 1/2 inches on the driver's side and 2 3/8 inches on the passenger's side when loaded. The truck handles this great. No sway, etc.

So.... here are the numbers:
Sticker:
8800 gvwr
4600 front axle rating
6084 rear axle rating (btw these are the numbers on the recommended tires, hmmm)

truck with it's normal load of stuff including fuel and my fat ass but no camper:
7084 gross
4240 front
2840 rear

This means that, by the sticker, I only have 1716# to max GVWR but 3244 to rear axle rating. Hmmm... Did I mention I have used this set up (towing a 20 foot bassboat frequently) with out an issue and the rear only dips 2.5 inches?

Weight with the camper:
9840 gross....1040 over
4220 front... pretty good COG if you think about the front being 20# lighter with the camper on.
5620 rear which is 464 below max axle rating. That would be closer with the boat.

This means my camper weight as loaded is 2760 dry. Granted I have pots and pans, food, microwave, clothes, etc but that weight surprised me a little for a soft side. Hard sides weigh in the same area.

I am looking for a different camper this winter. No I am not buying a new truck. This truck has 600,000 miles left on her. I want a hard side camper. I'm a common sense kind of guy as opposed to a strict sticker guy so I asked my son about the weight ratings. He is a school trained diesel mechanic and he asked his mentors. The question: How much over the stated rating is the true failure weight? We know these things are rated way under for liability concerns. Their answer: "You will never reach that weight. The tires will wear a little faster at some point above the rating but no catastrophic failure. The axles? Never" Not with out flattening the truck.

So let's look for better tires and wheels. 19.5 right? They do not make them to fit this style Ford. At least I can not find them on line nor can my tire shop. He can find me an E rated tire with a 3400# rating as compared to the typical 3042. He also said the tires will not fail me even over weight. My current weight is 464 under and this 800 extra would give me 1264# of cushion tire wise currently. Cool.

So campers. Before I weighed it and talked to my son and the tire guy I had been looking strictly at 8 1/2 footers to stay fairly close to the current weight. Now I am thinking maybe a 9 or 9 1/2 footer. Maybe even a 10 footer. The COG is pretty much a hard line for me though. There are several Lances (915 and a 1025) with the same COG as my 850 so I know weight distribution should be basically the same. The posted weights for a 10'3" Lance 1025 is 2370 dry and basic w/o options. Adding 800 # for the options and my stuff is only 430# more than my 8 1/2 footer.

So my thoughts are.... An extra 430# or even 1000# should be fine. I may at that point add Stable Loads though. Keeping in mind the COG for handling. I compared my truck to the same year F350.That F350 has a GVWR of only 400# more. That's ridiculous.

My questions:
Who here has a similar truck and ratings and a larger camper? Considering all of the weight arguments someone has to.
What are they?
What are your numbers?
What are your experiences and thoughts about your set up?
Did you do anything extra for suspension mods after buying a larger camper?
1996 Ford F250 Crew Cab 7.3PSD 445,000 miles!
6/1 springs
3400# tires

2005 Lance 820
Solar, Generator, AC

1997 Ranger 487 Bass Boat
Too much stuff to list
20 REPLIES 20

bigfootford
Nomad II
Nomad II
JoeChiOhki wrote:
Might be worth doing a little junkyard diving like I did for a higher rated rear axle to give you a little extra wiggle room, it'll extend the service life of your bearings and their races. The added bonus of larger brakes didn't hurt either.


On the campers, the newer they are, the heavier they tend to be because of the extra features, filon (Its very heavy), slides etc....

Anything longer than the specialized short box 9' units is going to have too much overhang with a short bed truck.

When you get up towards the 9 1/2 - 10 ft range, you can safely plan on a dry weight of around 3000-3200lbs or somewhat close there in, and around 4000-4200 fully decked out with all your gear, full tanks etc....


The rear Axle rating for F250 around those years is:

Visteon web site it states 9750 lbs

The rear axle rating is limited on the SRW by the tire rating,
if you have 235/85 R16E's you have 3042 lbs x 2 = 6084
265/85 R16E's are 3415 x 2 = 6830
the dually tires would be 2778 x 4 = 11,112

The rating of the actual axle is 9750 lbs.

So there is quite a bit of margin for the actual axle itself..

Jim
2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260, Two Redodo 100ah Mini's, Aims 2500 Conv/Inv, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Delorme/laptop for travel, Wave-3 heat.

james65450
Explorer
Explorer
I would not worry too much on that weight. For the 1996 F250 and F350 there were very few differences. The F350 had a Dana 60 front axle and the F250 have the Dana 50. The F250 actually has stiffer front springs. The other difference was the brakes. The F350 had hydraboost brakes where the F250 has vacuum assist.

I have a 1997 F250hd with a Vanguard 9.6 hard side. I don't know how much it weighs but ready to camp it only squats about 1.5 inches.

Sounds like your rear springs maybe a little weak. I would upgrade the rear springs or go with airbags.
Vanguard P96T 9.5' on a 1997 F250HD 4x4 7.3

JoeChiOhki
Explorer II
Explorer II
Might be worth doing a little junkyard diving like I did for a higher rated rear axle to give you a little extra wiggle room, it'll extend the service life of your bearings and their races. The added bonus of larger brakes didn't hurt either.


On the campers, the newer they are, the heavier they tend to be because of the extra features, filon (Its very heavy), slides etc....

Anything longer than the specialized short box 9' units is going to have too much overhang with a short bed truck.

When you get up towards the 9 1/2 - 10 ft range, you can safely plan on a dry weight of around 3000-3200lbs or somewhat close there in, and around 4000-4200 fully decked out with all your gear, full tanks etc....
My Blog - The Journey of the Redneck Express

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'1992 Dodge W-250 "Dually" Power Wagon - Club Cab Long Bed 4x4 V8 5.9L gashog w/4.10 Geared axles
'1974 KIT Kamper 1106 - 11' Slide-in
'2006 Heartland BigHorn 3400RL

bigfootford
Nomad II
Nomad II
I have a 94 f250 super cab 460 2wd... I put 19.5's on it... Vision rims.. So I do not see why you can not do the same.

Our weight with our LOADED 9.6 bigfoot camper and without is:

Unloaded:

F 3160
R 2680

Loaded:

F 3400 Dif: 240

R 6550 Diff 3870

19.5 tire spec 4500 x 2= 9000 lbs. My weight margin is over 2000 lbs for the rear.

To put 19.5's on the front you have to do a little removal of the front bumper for the tire to clear.

I have only Air bags on the rear. Running 40lbs each.


Almost 200,000 traveling with this camper on 2 ford f250 super cabs... 89 and 94.

My brakes work just fine with the camper on... Even towing 2000 lb trailer or towing a 2000 lb toad.. Samurai or 69 VW baja

Jim
2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260, Two Redodo 100ah Mini's, Aims 2500 Conv/Inv, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Delorme/laptop for travel, Wave-3 heat.

jimh406
Explorer III
Explorer III
I don't know what you mean by similar truck, but I drove a SRW for over 8 years with a 9 1/2. If you are at the max axle rating, consider an axle upgrade which could also give you the possibility to go to 19.5s on the rear with more modern brakes. You might also be able to pickup a spring upgrade while you are at it.

'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.

NRA Life Member, CCA Life Member

jmtandem
Explorer II
Explorer II
What are your experiences and thoughts about your set up?
Did you do anything extra for suspension mods after buying a larger camper?


No preaching here, but you asked! When I purchased a 3500 dually Ram and put an 11 foot cabover on it I needed overload suspension bumpers and air bags to have 'just right' handling and I am picky about how it handles in the mountains and especially on roads with tight curves. Both the overload spring bumpers and the air bags worked. No comment on how much you might go over gross but for me 1000 pounds on a 12,200 pound gross vehicle weight truck would be near my comfort zone max since the brakes of the truck must stop the entire truck and cabover in deference to a fifth wheel or travel trailer that has it's own brakes.
'05 Dodge Cummins 4x4 dually 3500 white quadcab auto long bed.