cancel
Showing results for 
Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

2 Way Refrigerator Replacement

coyotesfan9898
Explorer
Explorer
Hey all. Pretty new to all of this. I have a Forest River Flagstaff 25LB Superlite with a Dometic 2 way fridge. Fridge doesn't seem to want to work. I've seen people replace the 2-way fridge's with simple roughly 4.5cu mini fridge's and removal and install all seem pretty straight forward. Was wondering if anyone has done this and any concern with the heat put off with the mini fridge? Or does it seem to not be an issue with the upper vent and vent door at the floor to the outside of the camper? Seen them installed with simple foam sheet insulation to help snug everything up and was wondering along the same lines as far is it making the space to hot? Thanks all for the input!
12 REPLIES 12

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
You will end up with 4+ batteries and 500+ watts solar and still need the generator periodically with a residential fridge off-grid. Great when plugged in.

gordinho80
Explorer
Explorer
Valid point. First few trips will be short and will be at sites with hook ups, so I'm not concerned with that. Eventually will be running an inverter with transfer switch and also solar panels down the line.
Mario
2012 Ram 1500 Crew Big Horn 5.7L Hemi (My first Dodge)
2000 Coachmen Futura 2790TB (Our first camper) - https://www.instagram.com/martin_the_camper/

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
Before you put in a residential fridge consider how you will use the trailer. If you will be in campgrounds or parks with hook ups and traveling short distances it will be fine. If you plan on extensive road travel or bookdocking with no hookups, then consider placing with another 2-way fridge. Cooling on propane is a lot easier then managing battery/inverter/generator power all the time especially when you want to keep the food and drinks cold going down the road.

gordinho80
Explorer
Explorer
Cooling unit on mine was bad too. I ripped out the whole fridge and will be putting in a 9.9 cu ft residential unit. I'm also re-doing the entire roof so the roof vent is getting covered. I'm using the foam sheets to insulate. I'll be posting pics and details here. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29485866.cfm
Mario
2012 Ram 1500 Crew Big Horn 5.7L Hemi (My first Dodge)
2000 Coachmen Futura 2790TB (Our first camper) - https://www.instagram.com/martin_the_camper/

WayneAt63044
Explorer
Explorer
Yep, that yellow stuff should be inside doing the cooling and not on the out side. Time to replace or repair. There's an outfit in Arkansas that rebuilds them but I bought a new one when mine went bad like yours has.
2012 Forest River V-Cross Vibe 826VFK
pulled by 2009 Ram 1500 Quad Cab Hemi

coyotesfan9898
Explorer
Explorer
Don't see anything on the coils but this is what the burner tube looks like... not sure if that's what you meant by yellow...

Jim
Explorer
Explorer
Not knowing what age your refer is, just be a guess, but if you didn't smell ammonia when you opened the refer, and if you don't see any yellow powdery stuff on the coils outside, then it could just be plugged due to lack of use. The cure for that is to whack on those coils outside with a rubber mallet to get some vibration going...something to break up the chemicals inside the tubing that can clump together. Might take an hour of running the mallet over the coils. Sometimes I just put an electric vibrator on them and have a beer.
Jim@HiTek
Have shop, will travel!
Visit my travel & RV repair blog site. Subscribe for emailed updates.
Winnebago Journey, '02
Cat 330HP Diesel, 36.5', two slides.

coyotesfan9898
Explorer
Explorer
Yes, the trailer is level. I assume it’s running. When I first went through it I noticed the 5amp fuse on the circuit board was blown and was cause the “check” light to come on. Replaced it and light has stayed off, just no sign of cooling. Switched it over to gas and burner fired right up and boiler section started grtting hot after a few mins.

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
coyotesfan9898 wrote:
I’ve had it plugged up since Saturday afternoon and it’s not getting cool at all. I understand it could potentially take 24-48hrs to start cooling. Figured by now I would see some sort of progress.


Any 6 cu ft gas absorption fridge I've owned, both Norcold and Dometic, have easily been cold enough to put food in once they've been on for no more than 5 hours. Presumably you've adequately leveled the trailer, a requirement for proper operation of any gas absorption fridge. :@ Does it run in the electric mode? :@
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

coyotesfan9898
Explorer
Explorer
I’ve had it plugged up since Saturday afternoon and it’s not getting cool at all. I understand it could potentially take 24-48hrs to start cooling. Figured by now I would see some sort of progress.

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
RV fridges work well but your’s may need replacement. Heat is also generated by an RV fridge. A residential fridge would tie you to CGs with electricity, extensive generator use and/or a huge solar/battery system. What style of camping do you like?
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

donn0128
Explorer II
Explorer II
What do you mean exactly by seems to not work? Absprption refers do not work like compressor refers. They take about 24 hours to cool down prior to use, and they can warm up pretty fast if you leave the door open for more than a few seconds at a time. They generally work well if their installed correctly and folks understand how they operate.
Please come back and amend your original post with information on what you feel your problem is.