2005 Arctic fox 1150

[todsme]

Looking at truck Jack's as upgraded.

[Reddog1]

Please do not play the victim with me. Read your posts. Obviously you can't read those I deleted, but you should have before you posted them. This is not the first time you took a cheap shot at me. It was uncalled for. I have tried to get you to understand the negative aspects of many of your posts. You pushed hard enough on one thread that more than one member clearly stated the problem. It appears you read and ignored that thread, and now want to say you are a victim. I think you have a lot to offer the forum, but with a different approach.

Wayne
Moderator

Rules & Policies
Attacks on moderators will not be tolerated and may result in an immediate ban.

[Kayteg1]

But why are you making fight out of it?
You accused me of stirring the pot for guessing good explanation what happen.
That simply is not fair, especially that you seem to be very strong participant in this topic from the beginning.
I know that being moderator and active poster always make for unpleasant situations, but it is what it is.

[Reddog1]

Kayteg1, it is you that is getting personal, with your thread moderation comment. The only "fact" is I am the Moderator of the TC Forum. The "fact" is there is lots of things that happens here without my approval. I try to keep the the TC Forum within the guidelines of the Rules & Policies of RV.NET. It is not often I have to edit or delete posts, but on occasion a member will decide they are all knowing and the Forum is about them. More often than not, they are very knowledgeable but their ego gets so big it overshadows their knowledge with bully and arrogant post. Typically they insist on having the last word.

Wayne
Moderator

[Kayteg1]

Reddog1 wrote:

Kayteg1 wrote:
I think OP got upset with thread moderation and deleted what he wrote on the beginning. ...

Stirring the Pot, or simply a troll? Since you brought it up, I am more inclined to believe he was upset because moderation was needed.

We are getting personal Wayne, but I simply stated the fact.
You can't deny that nothing happens here without your approval, can you?

[Reddog1]

Kayteg1 wrote:
I think OP got upset with thread moderation and deleted what he wrote on the beginning. ...

Stirring the Pot, or simply a troll? Since you brought it up, I am more inclined to believe he was upset because moderation was needed.

Freep, the OP edited his original post, for reasons unknown to me. I am guessing he was trying to be informative, and did not want to argue his point.

todsme wrote:
Camper has been sold. The happi jac corner Jack's in 2005 ,4200 series had low torque powerheads and binded. Now they make the ,I believe the 4800 series.to rectify needing a stable- lift system, is to always keep the front of your camper lifted 3 inches higherwhen loading,unloading camper.That is until you are 2 feet from grounding camper. Especially with dually swing out brackets. This goes for any camper.keeps Jack's from binding and brackets from twisting.Remeber all the cantilver weight of sleeper.Also if you keep one rear jack off the ground ,you will reduce stress and binding of front Jack's.Try it ,the sleeper weight creates deflection thus really requiring only three Jack's to lower or raise camper.That is until leveled and set for use.

[Kayteg1]

I think OP got upset with thread moderation and deleted what he wrote on the beginning.
The pictures that you can find links for show that the camper front jacks failed and camper drop damaging pickup on its way. That short time after purchase sure sucks and I feel for the poster.
One of the jacks bend, the other rip-off from the camper frame.
One failure had to lead to other, but question is wchich one was first.
I am just rebuilding lower front of my camper due the rotten wood behind jack mounts.
My camper has aluminium frame, what holds it together, but aluminium is only small skeleton, where lot of framing is still based on wood.
I discover that my front lower wall has no aluminium and the main beam holding sides of the camper was 3/4" x 3.5" where shear plywood was symbolic only. All attached with staples only. That for camper that loaded comes to 6500 lb.
The beam under the sides sag 3/4" per my measurements.
So to each fellow camper owner - inspect your jacks mounts very carefully and whenever you can, lower front jacks to keep the camper square.

[Freep]

todsme wrote:
Looking at truck Jack's as upgraded.

How did this whole thread come from this single post? I have no idea what OP is talking about.

[Reddog1]

I think it is worth noting, the kid's playground equipment (Stable Lift) serves a useful purpose on the TC and the circus banners do not.

[Freep]

Reddog1 wrote:


An interesting post; "I also don't want to drive around with my truck looking like I drove through a kid's playground and the equipment is stuck under the truck." If you have the typical decals on your truck, ever stop to consider maybe people think your truck looks like you drove it through a circus and the banners stuck to the TC. My point is, each of us have our own ideas as to looks.

Wayne

I Agree. We really dislike the swooshes manufacturers insist on putting on truck campers.

[todsme]

Camper has been sold. The happi jac corner Jack's in 2005 ,4200 series had low torque powerheads and binded. Now they make the ,I believe the 4800 series.to rectify needing a stable- lift system, is to always keep the front of your camper lifted 3 inches higherwhen loading,unloading camper.That is until you are 2 feet from grounding camper. Especially with dually swing out brackets. This goes for any camper.keeps Jack's from binding and brackets from twisting.Remeber all the cantilver weight of sleeper.Also if you keep one rear jack off the ground ,you will reduce stress and binding of front Jack's.Try it ,the sleeper weight creates deflection thus really requiring only three Jack's to lower or raise camper.That is until leveled and set for use.

[BBVD]

work2much wrote:

Bedlam wrote:
I'm not sure if you had blocks under your jacks - It looks like they were sinking in the lawn. I used 4x6 blocks on soft ground and nothing on pavement or gravel other than the stock feet.

+1 We have to take our jacks all the way to the warning lines on the front so I set the jacks on big 4x6 blocks like you do seven though the legs can't sink being on concrete. I just don't like pushing anything to max.

Feel bad for poster though. That's hard to look at.

Had blocks under it and sold ground. It was sometime so the grass was getting long which is why it looks like it's sunk a bit.

There is a design flaw in the system and the jackass failed. Nothing I did other than looked at it go timber on the truck.

[burningman]

GeoBoy wrote:
Joe, does your Vacationer have slide-outs?

Nope but I understand the problem. There's not much support in the side wings below the slide. All you have the do is install a piece of steel square or rectangle tube, thick stuff not thin, that runs from the front corner to the rear corner and attach it to the Stable Lift. Now the lift transfers stress to the corners where it needs to be. Problem solved.
I did exactly that, it's easy and works great. My support brace does flex a little between the rear corner and the rear of the Stable Lift, a span of four or five feet, I may do some doubling or triangulating to make it even more solid.

There's no pre-made "kit" that you can order, sometimes you have to do a little custom work. Any welding shop could do this mod if you haven't got the place or tools for it.

If I were still using corner jacks, I'd run some steel flat stock from the rear corner jack mounts along the camper side to the front jack mounting bracket, then across the front to the other front corner bracket, then back down the other side to the other rear bracket. I believe that would go a long way toward keeping them from ripping out.

They all feel solid when the camper is brand new, age and that leak down the inside of the wall you didn't know about right away eventually weaken them.

[bighatnohorse]

The 2005 Arctic Fox 1150 had a factory design issue with the front jack frame mounting points.
AF offered a "retro-fit" that reinforced the front jack mounting corners after a few reported failures.

[work2much]

Bedlam wrote:
I'm not sure if you had blocks under your jacks - It looks like they were sinking in the lawn. I used 4x6 blocks on soft ground and nothing on pavement or gravel other than the stock feet.

+1 We have to take our jacks all the way to the warning lines on the front so I set the jacks on big 4x6 blocks like you do seven though the legs can't sink being on concrete. I just don't like pushing anything to max.

Feel bad for poster though. That's hard to look at.