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A Previous Owner Removed My Lower Overloads??

sasquatchgeoff
Explorer II
Explorer II
Arrrggghh...Someone removed my lower overloads!:M
I am afraid it is the case.

Passenger side with 4000 lb payload loaded (Fleetwood Caribou 11G):



After reading some Ford and Powerstroke forums, I discovered that this is a somewhat common practice for some folks who install air bags. It supposedly "softens" the ride.

Can't really install StableLoads without that bottom overload.

I am now considering replacing the entire leaf pack. There is a shop in Portland (Benz Springs) that can possibly just replace the bottom overload. Shipping a pair of leaf packs all the way from SDTruckSprings in NY makes no sense. I am keeping my fingers crossed.

For cripes sake! This is a work truck dag-nabbit!! Its supposed to ride rough!
1996 F350 SRW CrewCab XLT 7.3L PS 2019 NL 10-2EXCD SE
12 REPLIES 12

MudChucker
Explorer
Explorer
For the drilling, its really simple. We use a floor jack and nestle the base of the dril in the cup on the jack, have a budy apply even jack handle pressure whilst you squeeze the trigger and hold 'er straight. Takes about a minute per spring and you will only burn one bit... unless you snap it.
2017 Cougar
2015 Ram 3500 Megacab 6.7 Cummins Aisin transmission

Bedlam
Moderator
Moderator
Engaging or disengaging does not require prying, but the initial installation may require a pry bar if the lower overload spring is too close to the spring pack to install the retaining bolt.

Host Mammoth 11.5 on Ram 5500 HD

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
No need for all the prying if you jack the truck up by the frame or hitch. Springs will droop alot
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Ranger_Tim
Explorer
Explorer
I followed the prescribed ritual of calling Torklift and having them ship me the press. It worked okay with my Dewalt drill. Took about 3-4 minutes each. It takes longer to position the drill and device than to actually do the work. The return to TL was easy, but I had to provide a new box because the one they sent was almost destroyed.

You may get some mileage out of viewing my blog which spends a little time on this. Don't want to self promote too much so PM me for the link.

I needed an assistant (the Admiral) to pry the lower leaf away from the pack, even with the jack routine. I was only able to utilize three of the four leaves but it has been a great device. I had her place the bolt and washer while I used a large crowbar and braced myself against the concrete and the truck for leverage.
Ranger Tim
2006 F-350 Super Crew King Ranch SRW Bulletproofed
2016 Wolf Creek 840
Upper and Lower StableLoads

finsruskw
Explorer
Explorer
I used a floor jack to cradle my Milwaukee right angle drill.
Worked great. Didn't take long at all.
Just touch up the bit after each hole.

kohldad
Explorer III
Explorer III
To add drilling in hard material, two suggestions. First get a little bit of cutting oil to reduce the heat buildup.

Second is use a high quality drill such as a milwalkee right angle drill, something that has a lot of torque. Then use a floor jack under the drill to apply the enough pressure to load the drill down but not bog it down. Make sure to ease off the pressure when you start to notice the point coming through the back side or some serious damage can result.

Of course, alternate and best method would be to remove the spring to drill on a full size drill press.
2015 Ram 3500 4x4 Crew Cab SRW 6.4 Hemi LB 3.73 (12.4 hand calc avg mpg after 92,000 miles with camper)
2004 Lance 815 (prev: 2004 FW 35'; 1994 TT 30'; Tents)

sasquatchgeoff
Explorer II
Explorer II
HMS Beagle wrote:
To make it real easy, rent or borrow a mag drill. It's kind of like mini drill press with a real big electromagnet base, clamps and holds itself to the steel and then you pull a lever.

That is an excellent idea. I have been at jobsites where one of those (Milwaukee) was in use drilling 1-1/4" holes in a ductile iron flange. I will check my rental shop around the corner here in Portland for a smaller version. Thanks for the tip!
1996 F350 SRW CrewCab XLT 7.3L PS 2019 NL 10-2EXCD SE

HMS_Beagle
Explorer
Explorer
To make it real easy, rent or borrow a mag drill. It's kind of like mini drill press with a real big electromagnet base, clamps and holds itself to the steel and then you pull a lever.
Bigfoot 10.4E, 2015 F350 6.7L DRW 2WD, Autoflex Ultra Air Ride rear suspension, Hellwig Bigwig sway bars front and rear

sasquatchgeoff
Explorer II
Explorer II
Buzzcut1 wrote:
sasquatchgeoff wrote:
Buzzcut1 wrote:
no it is there. it is the bottom 3/4 length leaf

This is my 2011 F350 with both upper and lower overloads and stableloads



Ahhh! Thank you! I was gonna toss and turn worrying about springs all night. So Stableloads get installed when the truck is empty and on a jack correct? Otherwise I can't see that leaf opening up to get the hole drilled and the wedge in.


you would be correct. FYI I hear that drilling that leaf is a royal pain. I was glad to find that my 2011 came pre drilled ( my 03 which was going to get them was not)

When I worked for Lockheed in Marietta, GA I drilled holes for the C5 engine pylons (under-wing mounts). We had a $80K Quackenbush drill that would go through that unobtanium alloy in about 8 hours.

Torklift makes a jig to make it easier, but I can't see all that for four holes. They give you four drill bits in the kit - that should be a pretty strong hint right there. One guy told me to use a two-by-four to brace the drill motor. I'll just take it slow (about 200 rpm max) and easy and use lots of 30 weight motor oil.
1996 F350 SRW CrewCab XLT 7.3L PS 2019 NL 10-2EXCD SE

Buzzcut1
Nomad II
Nomad II
sasquatchgeoff wrote:
Buzzcut1 wrote:
no it is there. it is the bottom 3/4 length leaf

This is my 2011 F350 with both upper and lower overloads and stableloads



Ahhh! Thank you! I was gonna toss and turn worrying about springs all night. So Stableloads get installed when the truck is empty and on a jack correct? Otherwise I can't see that leaf opening up to get the hole drilled and the wedge in.

That's what I love about this forum. As a software engineer, I get flamed and pickled regularly when I post what would appear to be logical questions on the developer forums. Those guys have a huge chip on their shoulders sometimes.


you would be correct. FYI I hear that drilling that leaf is a royal pain. I was glad to find that my 2011 came pre drilled ( my 03 which was going to get them was not)
2011 F350 6.7L Diesel 4x4 CrewCab longbed Dually, 2019 Lance 1062, Torqlift Talons, Fast Guns, upper and lower Stable Loads, Super Hitch, 48" Super Truss, Airlift loadlifter 5000 extreme airbags

sasquatchgeoff
Explorer II
Explorer II
Buzzcut1 wrote:
no it is there. it is the bottom 3/4 length leaf

This is my 2011 F350 with both upper and lower overloads and stableloads



Ahhh! Thank you! I was gonna toss and turn worrying about springs all night. So Stableloads get installed when the truck is empty and on a jack correct? Otherwise I can't see that leaf opening up to get the hole drilled and the wedge in.

That's what I love about this forum. As a software engineer, I get flamed and pickled regularly when I post what would appear to be logical questions on the developer forums. Those guys have a huge chip on their shoulders sometimes.
1996 F350 SRW CrewCab XLT 7.3L PS 2019 NL 10-2EXCD SE

Buzzcut1
Nomad II
Nomad II
no it is there. it is the bottom 3/4 length leaf

This is my 2011 F350 with both upper and lower overloads and stableloads

2011 F350 6.7L Diesel 4x4 CrewCab longbed Dually, 2019 Lance 1062, Torqlift Talons, Fast Guns, upper and lower Stable Loads, Super Hitch, 48" Super Truss, Airlift loadlifter 5000 extreme airbags