โAug-27-2021 06:55 AM
โAug-28-2021 03:41 AM
โAug-27-2021 08:14 PM
aftermath wrote:
vtraudt, I have another idea for you to consider. I purchased a Level Mate Pro system for my trailer. It is an electronic gizmo that I use with my cell phone. When I get to the campsite, I turn it on and it tells me that I am off by 1.5 inches on the driver side. I have a combination of planks and boards that I can drive up on. Bingo! I am set. I don't have to guess and make a number of tries, just put in what I need and I am good. It is a bit spendy but easy to set up and really easy to use. Used it for over a year now and it continues to simplify things for me. Google it and learn more.
โAug-27-2021 06:55 PM
โAug-27-2021 05:35 PM
vtraudt wrote:
Using Tires (here: axles): I will do a trial run (already have a hydraulic jack on hand) and lifting one axle at a time to put boards under the tires (or put a jack stand under the axle) to level. Reason for investigating the frame lift option: axles not easily accessible for jacking up.
Using FRAME near AXLE: best of both worlds? Same stress to chassis, yet better accessible than axle. Will try this FIRST (tailer in driveway, tilting terrible to one side).
HAVE to get one (two) of those 'curved' and 'scaled' levels (thanks for the link!).
โAug-27-2021 04:46 PM
โAug-27-2021 02:02 PM
โAug-27-2021 01:17 PM
Grit dog wrote:
To your first point, I don't see supporting the trailer in a static condition, with anything less than a house party with 20 people jammed in the RV rocking out to some hip hop, ever being anywhere near what the dynamic stresses are throughout the trailer while being towed. If it survives abrupt bridge approaches, humps, dips and potholes at 70mph, it will be fine with a couple people walking around. But yeah, I wouldn't put the stab jacks at the front and back. 1/4 points or 1/3 points would be more effective and appropriate.
โAug-27-2021 11:51 AM
โAug-27-2021 08:16 AM
โAug-27-2021 08:15 AM
Gdetrailer wrote:
A) NO, not "OK" to lift all the weight at the ends of the frame.
Frame and the box on top of the frame are designed and built for all the weight to bear down on the axles, lifting trailer at the ends will flex the frame and the box on top in ways that it shouldn't be flexed. You might not see the damage immediately but repeated extreme flexing has the potential to rip the bolts holding the box on top right through the wood framing of the floor.
Something else you are missing, if you lift the trailer enough that the wheels loose contact with the ground, how are you planning to keep the trailer from moving forward and backwards????
Effectively you are removing the safety of chocking your wheels, wheel chocks are a very important safety item, only chock one side of trailer and now you have a good chance that the trailer can pivot and turn and you measly little jacks cannot stop that from happening.
โAug-27-2021 08:06 AM
โAug-27-2021 07:40 AM
vtraudt wrote:
My Forest River Salem has electric 'stabilizer' jacks (pivot, won't work for side/side leveling even IF they were strong enough). And the usual front A frame jack.
vtraudt wrote:
I do NOT like to drive onto (2x6, lego blocks, curvy plastic thingies, etc). I rather put the trailer exactly where I want it, THEN do all the leveling. Front/back leveling with the front A frame jack is no issue.
vtraudt wrote:
For side to side, I would like to add scissor jacks on (or near, 3/4 points, else) the main frame at each corner. From this weeks stay, it seems that most (all?) not so new trailers have just that. I watched dozens setting up (some with hand crank, some with power drill/impact).
My trailer has a max weight of 7000 lbs.
The main rails are one piece, going from front to back (no welds, no steps).
a) is it ok to 'lift' at the ends or near the ends of the main rails?
b) with theoretically 1/2 of the weight (3500 lbs) on one jack, should I pick 3500 lbs jacks, or go even higher?
I am not sure yet if I will permanently mount (if it works, I likely will), either weld on or bolt on (only reason not to would be weight/inertia added to the rear.
Also, if it works, I would REMOVE the electric stabilizers (the jacks will level AND stabilize) and maybe use the MOTORS (2 on hand. would by 2 more) and add 2 more switches for 'electric' leveling (not AUTO leveling).
Does someone have experience with this modification?
Concerns, suggestions, ideas?
โAug-27-2021 07:37 AM
โAug-27-2021 07:27 AM