Sidewall is only one component of it for towing
In the early days of over sized dia wheels (folks here used to laugh at
them as low rider types) and low profiles (low aspect ratio)...the tire
offerings did NOT support LT class very well.
What there were, were mainly from OEMs and tough if not impossible to
find replacements from independent (non dealer) tire shops
Today's offerings do have decent LT class tires of higher load ratings.
So your question and answer is almost a mute point as long as you stick
to the proper load range for 'your' TV's ratings needs
You have a +8K GVWR, so OEM spec'd 'LT' class tires
So stick with LT class and of the min load rating according to your
drivers door label
Going over sized will dictate either reprograming the tire rev's per
mile for the computer's look up tables, or just living with the speedo
being off.
Torque-management of the tranny will an an issue if you don't change
the look up tables to the correct rev's per mile (tire OD)
Just stick to the OD of the OEM tire for your vehicle and the re-engineering
of the over sized tires will have the tire engineers bake in the metrics
for sidewall strength...unless you like to do the re-engineering...
-Ben
Picture of my rig1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...