Another Blue OX Sway Pro question and concern

[ajk170]

Close-up of Blue Ox Sway ProI'm new to the forum but have had my TT (2015 Keystone Outback 316RL) for the past 18 months and loving every minute of it. We use to tow it with a 2010 F150 5.4 (4x2) but upgraded to a 2013 F250 6.7 diesel (FX4). We upgraded the TV due to the overall weight being almost too much for the F150(Cat Scale showed our load on our way back from a an outing was 14.9k lbs. I think max GVW on the F150(4x2) was 15.2K).

Since this is our first TT I have nothing to base anything off of and we've only ever used the Blue Ox Sway pro. The TV is the only change. The 250 pulls it like there's nothing there (which is nice) but my concern is the proper set-up of the Sway Pro. Not the installation (that's seems fine) but the link tension and how much sag should be on the rear end of the truck. I included a pic to show what we look like, although this is not fully out loaded so some weight is missing from the truck bed.

You'll also notice the bars barely flex (1500# bars)but I spoke to Blue Ox when we first got it and they said it would be fine. So I trust the manufacturer and really don't want to buy new bars.

I use to have the hitched flipped with the "long end" up but reversing it allowed me to drop a little lower to get the trailer more "nose down". Although the picture suggests it's actually level.

So, does this look ok? I realize that this is a math problem and 12% of the trailer weight should be on the bumper and I should measure the front bumper before and after I'm hitched (I think I have that right) and I should stop at a scale the next time we have it out but it doesn't seem to matter what I do, I can't level out the F250 nor could I do it when we had the F150 and I even put spring helpers on the F150!

Thank you all for the help and insight- hopefully I'm paranoid.
F250 w/Outback 2015 316RL and Blue OX Swaypro w/1500# bars

[Community Alumni]

Mike Up wrote:

BTW, if you're using same trailer and same Blue Ox Sway Pro system that you had on your F150, boy were you overloading the receiver hitch of that F150. Looks like you're right at the limit of your F250 hitch.

I thought all of the F150s that had a rating over 5,000 lbs came with Class IV hitches 10,000 / 1050 hitches. The new 250s come with a Class IV rated at 16,000 / 1600 or 12,000 / 1,250 using the sleeve.

[73guna]

Retired JSO wrote:
I use a BOSP with 2000 lb bars and till get a sag in the 8th link. Dry tongue weight just over 660. Does not make any difference if the golfcart is loaded in the toy hauler or not.

Did you try taking up to the 9th or 10th link and adjust hitch head height as needed?

Just curious, why the 2000lb bars?

[Mike_Up]

Looking at this photo https://photos.shutterfly.com/gallery/e7715c44-d420-4399-85b8-6652a278fc1d

It looks like your your hitch is to far up the shank making your camper level but not your truck.

Truck and camper should come level together so if your truck is sagging, your camper should be nose low also. Both should pull up level together with the proper link adjustment.

[Mike_Up]

I have a 2012 Jay Flight 26BH and the loaded weight is about 6500 - 7000 lbs. With a standard TT, tongue weight is usually an average of 13%. So my tongue with could be between 850 and 900 lbs.

I use 1000 lbs bars and I have my chain link set at 8 links past the rotary latch to the end of the chain and at 3 1/2 links from the bottom of the rotary latch plate and the bar.

I initially had it 1 link weaker and the truck and camper sagged a bit. Putting it up one link put both the truck and camper level(camper foot is about 1.5" off of asphalt).

I really can't see your pics, they are to small to inspect and you can't enlarge. Try flicker, it is a great service that allows enlargement and is free. It's a service of Yahoo.

Guessing, I'd say you don't have your bars pulled up high enough. Add some links.

BTW, if you're using same trailer and same Blue Ox Sway Pro system that you had on your F150, boy were you overloading the receiver hitch of that F150. Looks like you're right at the limit of your F250 hitch.

I've never seen a properly setup WDH with proper size bars, ever cause a bad nose high, bad rear end sag condition on a truck/trailer combination. Sight but not bad and under properly sized spring bars, the combo could be level if not a bit rear high high, nose low.

[Retired_JSO]

I use a BOSP with 2000 lb bars and till get a sag in the 8th link. Dry tongue weight just over 660. Does not make any difference if the golfcart is loaded in the toy hauler or not.

[rsaylor3]

I also agree on more links. I have 1,500lb bars and around 1,250 or so tongue weight depending on the trip. I tow with a 2015 Silverado 2500 4x4. On a light trip I am on the 8-9th link and heavy trip the 10th link.

It feels fine with less links but man when you take an extra link you really feel the difference! Feels more one with the trailer. I think in a accident avoidance situation the extra tension in the bars will keep thinks in line better as well.

[73guna]

^^I agree, go up another link or two and see how the truck and trailer sits.
If the trailer is high in the nose, lower the hitch head down.
Be careful, those rotating latches can be down right dangerous when releasing the spring bar tension if you dont have enough weigh off the hitch head.
Blue Ox owner also.

[camperforlife]

I don't think you have enough tension on your bars. BlueOx say hang the 9th link in the rotating latch, many use the 10th. It looks like you are on the 3rd or 4th. See pic below from their site And yes I am a Blue ox owner.

[Lynnmor]

Hannibal wrote:

Are the springs softer or are the blocks shorter to make the newer trucks sit level when empty? I see the same GVWR's offered on Ford's website. My 2010 sits about 2" high in the rear unloaded.

They returned to the higher blocks in the later models. You are comparing apples and oranges, as the suspension is different in the older models. The main springs are more flexible unloaded for a better ride, when loaded down to the heavy over load springs they will, in theory, carry the rated load.

[Lynnmor]

westend wrote:

This is the manual for the F150, 2013. IIRC, my F-250 instructions said within 1/2" of unloaded. Hey, I could be wrong.

I did goof, picking the manual for the OP's previous truck, but the F250 manual reads the same. The 1/2" figure has been used all too often, and it is incorrect.

[Hannibal]

Lynnmor wrote:

Hannibal wrote:
I see the sag complaint a lot too but I'm not getting it. Our 5th wheel had 1900 lbs of pin weight along with 140 lbs of hitch and maybe 100 lbs in the tool chest. The rear of our 4X2 F250 sits a little high empty and when hitched up to the 5th wheel it sat level. It settled 2-3". Some might call that sagging or squatting and look for fixes where none are needed. Maybe I see things different as I've used my truck to carry up to 3300 lbs for work. Sitting a little lower than empty is normal.

The 2011 thru about 2014 had the soft rear springs. They will work, but the rear has to drop till the overloads springs are contacted. I have 860 lb hitch weight and about 400 lb in the bed, also a cap on the bed. I added air bags and run 23 psi in them to level the truck.

Are the springs softer or are the blocks shorter to make the newer trucks sit level when empty? I see the same GVWR's offered on Ford's website. My 2010 sits about 2" high in the rear unloaded.

[westend]

Lynnmor wrote:

westend wrote:
I think Ford suggests that when using a weight distributing hitch, the front wheel well should be returned to 1/2" higher than when unweighted.

This is not correct, never does it say 1/2" it is to be returned half way between loaded and unloaded.

See page 275 of your Owners Manual.
Manual

This is the manual for the F150, 2013. IIRC, my F-250 instructions said within 1/2" of unloaded. Hey, I could be wrong.

[Lynnmor]

Hannibal wrote:
I see the sag complaint a lot too but I'm not getting it. Our 5th wheel had 1900 lbs of pin weight along with 140 lbs of hitch and maybe 100 lbs in the tool chest. The rear of our 4X2 F250 sits a little high empty and when hitched up to the 5th wheel it sat level. It settled 2-3". Some might call that sagging or squatting and look for fixes where none are needed. Maybe I see things different as I've used my truck to carry up to 3300 lbs for work. Sitting a little lower than empty is normal.

The 2011 thru about 2014 had the soft rear springs. They will work, but the rear has to drop till the overloads springs are contacted. I have 860 lb hitch weight and about 400 lb in the bed, also a cap on the bed. I added air bags and run 23 psi in them to level the truck.

[Hannibal]

I see the sag complaint a lot too but I'm not getting it. Our 5th wheel had 1900 lbs of pin weight along with 140 lbs of hitch and maybe 100 lbs in the tool chest. The rear of our 4X2 F250 sits a little high empty and when hitched up to the 5th wheel it sat level. It settled 2-3". Some might call that sagging or squatting and look for fixes where none are needed. Maybe I see things different as I've used my truck to carry up to 3300 lbs for work. Sitting a little lower than empty is normal.

[ajk170]

Thanks proxim2020- I've been considering the air bag option for awhile but really felt like I needed some simple analysis and opinions, albeit from one photo, from people that know more than I do. since I should have it packed out this weekend I should take it across a scale and see where it stands. Thanks for pointing out the common complaint part, I'm not really tuned into things like that so that also helps ease my nerves. Nevertheless, I should check to see how my rig lines up to Hankibals's guide on dialing -in the level and maybe go with some sort of aid if everything checks out but still having a lot of sag.