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Any ideas on how to get my TT from Wisconsin to Florida?

drsolo
Nomad
Nomad
I have pulled a teardrop and a 1975 13' Shasta behind my 1992 GMC G2500 V8 with no problem. But I bought a used 1996 Wildwood click here and I was having a hard time with the pedal to the medal keeping it at 55 mph. I turned back. So now I either sell it or is there some kinds of services will drive it down without charging an arm and a leg?
Ingrid and Dan Retired teachers from Milwaukee, WI
1992 GMC Vandura conversion
58 REPLIES 58

westend
Explorer
Explorer
With cargo weight of 1500 lbs. in the van and a tongue weight of 600 lbs, pulling a 5000 lb trailer you are going to be struggling just a bit on hills with that 350 engine. I'd also suggest you keep the transmission in "D" when towing. At least to start. When you get more acquainted with the loads and performance, you can be shifting into "OD", especially on the flat when on Interstates.

If you don't have one, a transmission temperature gauge can alert you to inordinate transmission temperatures before you burn up another transmission. I'd suggest to get one installed and make sure you have a big enough transmission cooler. You are operating right at the maximum for the drivetrain of that van.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Walaby
Explorer II
Explorer II
drsolo wrote:
2ND UPDATE:
So today the wind was coming right at me and when trucks passed me going 70 I could feel as they approached and passed, an eerie feeling like the way a snake oscillates side to side. I dont think the van/TT moved at all, just a feeling. Is this common?

THANK ALL OF YOU> you are brilliant!!


some small amount of oscillation is normal, depending on the tow vehicle and the trailer. I get that from time to time with my setup as well. It's kinda a shiver but I never have any sense of losing control, or the vehicle really moving. I've looked in the mirror as it occurs, and I see a slight "wiggle" of the trailer and it straightens right back up.

There's a whole thread somewhere in here that discusses that. You can minimize that, by watching in your mirror, and as a truck comes up to pass you, move over to the far side of your lane. That will reduce it. Also, making sure your WD hitch is setup properly will minimize it as well.

Glad to see the issue has been resolved. Sounds like you've found a good mechanic that helped you (a) understand what you need to do transmission wise, and (b) didn't try to sell you stuff you didn't need.

Mike
Im Mike Willoughby, and I approve this message.
2017 Ram 3500 CTD (aka FRAM)
2019 GrandDesign Reflection 367BHS

azrving
Explorer
Explorer
drsolo wrote:
2ND UPDATE:
First, I went to weigh just the RVan = 6100 lbs
Today I went to pick up the trailer and give it a try .... SUCCESS!!!!!
I could get it up to 60 mph, even higher going down slope a bit. But it wouldnt hold at 60 mph in cruise until I shifted out of overdrive D and into regular D and then it held very well even creeping up to 60 from 55 going uphill. I am still going to take the long and flat route to Florida.
So today the wind was coming right at me and when trucks passed me going 70 I could feel as they approached and passed, an eerie feeling like the way a snake oscillates side to side. I dont think the van/TT moved at all, just a feeling. Is this common?


Good for you. That's fantastic. The trans may run a little hotter in D but it's not going to hurt it. It's better than having the torque convert constantly engaging and disengaging OR lugging the engine. That wears the fiction material in the converter.

drsolo
Nomad
Nomad
2ND UPDATE:
First, I went to weigh just the RVan = 6100 lbs
Today I went to pick up the trailer and give it a try .... SUCCESS!!!!!
I could get it up to 60 mph, even higher going down slope a bit. But it wouldnt hold at 60 mph in cruise until I shifted out of overdrive D and into regular D and then it held very well even creeping up to 60 from 55 going uphill. I am still going to take the long and flat route to Florida.
So today the wind was coming right at me and when trucks passed me going 70 I could feel as they approached and passed, an eerie feeling like the way a snake oscillates side to side. I dont think the van/TT moved at all, just a feeling. Is this common?

THANK ALL OF YOU> you are brilliant!!
Ingrid and Dan Retired teachers from Milwaukee, WI
1992 GMC Vandura conversion

drsolo
Nomad
Nomad
UPDATE:

No tachometer, but I did discover and ask about the two "D" on my gear selector and my mechanic told me plain D was drive like around the city, the D with the circle around it was overdrive. Not that I used the plain D at all. Well I am one of those people reads the manuals cover to cover but my used GMC came with no manuals. I been finding new stuff ever since.

OK. It does downshift well with no load. Mechanic said he took it out and got it up to 75 mph on the freeway piece of cake, smooth as silk. But he said he did see the antique catalytic converter under there said the old kind with "beads" and could be choking the engine. So he will remove the cat con and also replace the fuel filters.

When I get it back I will take it down to be weighed as it is now fully loaded to go and will report back. Thanks everyone.
Ingrid and Dan Retired teachers from Milwaukee, WI
1992 GMC Vandura conversion

westend
Explorer
Explorer
drsolo wrote:
06Fargo wrote:
I vote with the folks saying the transmission is staying in OD / high gear when it should be downshifting to 3rd or 2nd.
What happens on a hill when you manually move the shift lever to "3" or "2"?


OK, that is going on the list of things I will be trying today. So how can I test this out from a stop on a hill? If I put it in 1st or 2nd it just shouldnt sound any different if the transmission cable isnt hooked up right?
Thanks.
Do you have a tachometer on the dash?
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

azrving
Explorer
Explorer
Drive it without the TT. When in an area where you can get up to speed such as getting on the expressway, you want to pay attention to how it shifts up through the gears. You dont want to enter the freeway slowly and you dont need it flat pedaled either. You want to be on it enough so that the shift points are noticeable. I know your problem is downshifting but start with this first.

It should shift from first to second relatively quickly then from second to third and finally when it's going fast enough the torque converter will lock up. The torque converter lock will not be as noticeable as the gear changes.

At about 55 or over the torque converter should be locked. If you accelerate a little it should unlock the torque converter and kick down to third gear. If you press harder it should kick down from third to second and be very noticeable. If nothing has happened floor it and see if it kicks down.

If it still doesn't kick down, slow down to 50 or so and move the gear selector to the 2 position. The engine should rev higher and the van will try to slow down. Stay on the throttle. Now move the shifter back to D and it should shift up again. Be sure no one is behind you when trying this.

After that start over doing it again but this time put the gear selector in 1 while stopped. Pay close attention to the engine speed as you start to accelerate. As it revs up and you are probably doing 15 or 20 mph move the lever to the 2 position. The up shift should be very noticeable. Stay on the throttle and when you hit about 45 or so move the shift lever to 3 or D (Drive) position and you will feel it shift again. You should have felt 2 distinct shifts (1 to 2 and 2 to 3). Continue accelerating until you feel a very another slight shift and that will be the torque converter locking up. It may be difficult to notice the torque converter lock up and it could be at 55 or 60 or so. I think a lot of those era vehicles locked at 48 or so under light throttle. If you have a tachometer you will also see these shift points, especially the converter lock up.

You are looking for it to kick down when you step on it. If it doesn't you have identified one problem. You are also trying to prove that it can be shifted manually. It could be an adjustment or it may need more serious attention which should be part of the trans rebuilders responsibility it would seem.

drsolo
Nomad
Nomad
06Fargo wrote:
I vote with the folks saying the transmission is staying in OD / high gear when it should be downshifting to 3rd or 2nd.
What happens on a hill when you manually move the shift lever to "3" or "2"?


OK, that is going on the list of things I will be trying today. So how can I test this out from a stop on a hill? If I put it in 1st or 2nd it just shouldnt sound any different if the transmission cable isnt hooked up right?
Thanks.
Ingrid and Dan Retired teachers from Milwaukee, WI
1992 GMC Vandura conversion

noteven
Explorer III
Explorer III
I vote with the folks saying the transmission is staying in OD / high gear when it should be downshifting to 3rd or 2nd.

What happens on a hill when you manually move the shift lever to "3" or "2"?

colliehauler
Explorer III
Explorer III
drsolo wrote:
colliehauler wrote:
I would take the van to a mechanic that I trusted. Could be several things.


I thought I knew somebody who was a whiz, reasonably priced. He got very busy. He hired people. The quality of the work went down. Being a good mechanic is not necessarily tied to being a good supervisor or boss. I always check Angie's list, BBB. ask neighbors, ask on neighbor boards, ask online (yelp). I am still trying to find that mechanic I trust long term. I need a crystal ball I am sure.
I have a trusted mechanic and if he shut down I would be lost. If the catalytic converter is plugged you will not have very much power, happened to me with my Dodge.

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
It's starting to sound like the transmission has an issue with not down shifting! I would take it back and tell them what it's doing and that it was shifting and towing fine before the trans rebuild. I'm guessing they missed a seal or a valve is stuck in the valvebody, or a bad governor in the trans.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
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Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
drsolo wrote:
travelnutz wrote:
Your 1992 2500 GMC van most likely has the 5.7 liter V8 and it has plenty of power to pull double the weight of your Wildwood trailer. A slim possibility your van has a smaller size V8 because few of them were ever sold in the 2500 model and usually only in the short wheel bsase version. The unknown is what rear end ratio your van has as that will make a huge difference in pulling ability. Most had the 342 or the 373 ratio as OEM. Yours, being a camper van conversion and the long body version, most likely has a 5.7 V8 with either the 342 or 373. You'd know if you purchased the van new but if bought used, who knows what may have been changed since new. The other power robber is an mostly plugged catalytic converter as your van is now 24 years old. OR the engine cylinders/rings are worn and losing compression.

We had a Chevy 2500 Deluxe Starcraft Van Conversion and had no problem pulling a 30' Nomad Century trailer loaded with options and full water plus all our food and stuff which is more than double your trailer's weight and it had the same front shape as yours which is far from aerodynamic in shape/wind bucking. I could pull the trailer at 70 anytime except up hills or long steep grades.

Have your van's engine checked and the catalytic converter also as it should pull your Wildwood at even 70 mph easily without flooring the go pedal. Something isn't right with your van and will need to be fixed anyway so you'll be paying double plus in the long run by having your Wildwood delivered since the van needs to be taken care of also.

However, remember that your trailer tires have a max speed of 65 mph even if they are 225/75/15 "D" range tires (8 ply rating and 65 psi max inflation) and less than 65 mph if they are smaller tires than those with 50 psi max.


My van is 1992 GMC G2500 vandura V-8 350 ci 4,482 lbs 3/4 ton van, max towing capacity of 6600lbs. I think it is 17' long. It was originally owned by a couple owned a garage, even stored indoors and used for camping themselves couldnt anymore due to poor health so they sold it. On my last trip to Florida I used 1 quart of oil. I have always been careful having checkups twice a year and right before trips. Now the last time I was in Florida my muffler went and I had a guy make a new one "on the spot" and he said the catalytic was in bad shape, did I need it to pass inspections and I told him I didnt anymore. Nobody has said anything about the catalytic converter since then. I use the van during the year around town, but I am retired so dont put much mileage on it. It now has 139k miles. The mechanics say it is in great shape. When we went over the mountains west 2 summers ago pulling the teardrop I did need to downshift to 2nd to get up and down some of those steeper grades. I only carry 4 gallons of water in the van, the trailer is empty. My van tires are new this year, the trailer tires are new and ST 205/75/R15. In any case I like to cruise at 60 mph which seems most comfortable speed for me and best gas mileage.
We went to the closest truck scales to get the van and trailer weighed and weighed both together. I know I should have separated the two, but it was cold, the scales were icy and I was slipping just getting onto the scales. I am not sure how this breaks down into van and trailer. Van is 4482, trailer is 3995 according to specs.
steer axle 2740
drive axle 4140
trailer axle 4100
total 10980


You are grossly UNDERESTIMATING the weight of the VAN AND the trailer.

With the weights posted above, your VAN weight with the tongue weight is 6880 lbs..

I suspect your van weighs considerably MORE than 4482 lbs since I doubt your tongue is 2398 lbs!

Conversion vans are notorious for having very low towing/cargo weights due to the conversion process ADDING a lot of weight to the van (added weight to the van takes away your available cargo weight and your tongue IS considered cargo of the van)..

10,980 lbs combination PLUS less aerodynamics of a bigger trailer is most likely the problem.. I would suspect that is a bit to high of a weight for your van/engine/gear ratio..

To get back to your original question of haulers, YES there ARE HAULERS who will hitch up your trailer to their vehicle and tow it places for you. BUT, it does not come cheap to do so.

Contact your local RV dealer and ask if they can get you a list of haulers that may help you.

BUT, personally.. SELL the trailer where it is and BUY ONE IN FLORIDA..

The cost to haul one to Florida is going to be pretty expensive and I am sure you could easily find some used trailers already in Florida at a reasonable cost.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
THere are a variety of reasons why someone doesn't trust a repair facility, most of them intrinsic to the industry. I worked as a wrench for more than a few years and auto service was the most troublesome regarding customer service/satisfaction. Overall, I'd say the service/repair business is better than it was when I was skinning my knuckles, some of that has to do with the quality of the modern vehicles.

I believe the best choice can be made by recommendation of local friends and family.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

drsolo
Nomad
Nomad
colliehauler wrote:
I would take the van to a mechanic that I trusted. Could be several things.


I thought I knew somebody who was a whiz, reasonably priced. He got very busy. He hired people. The quality of the work went down. Being a good mechanic is not necessarily tied to being a good supervisor or boss. I always check Angie's list, BBB. ask neighbors, ask on neighbor boards, ask online (yelp). I am still trying to find that mechanic I trust long term. I need a crystal ball I am sure.
Ingrid and Dan Retired teachers from Milwaukee, WI
1992 GMC Vandura conversion

colliehauler
Explorer III
Explorer III
I would take the van to a mechanic that I trusted. Could be several things.