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Belly Bars

Leland1950
Explorer
Explorer
Why not? Look a lot simpilar and a lot easier to install than most of the tie down brackets on the market. Sure you've got to drill four holes but so what. A lot of the name brands require drilling too. I'm going with one for the front and make a mount that hooks to the Reese 14K hitch on the back. If there were problems please let me know before I start welding.
2003 F550 2013 Flagstaff
12 REPLIES 12

Leland1950
Explorer
Explorer
Not paranoid, but did a mock up, and had at least 16" clearance to garage floor. Jacked tubing up and put jack stands under it and came up with that. Will look very close tomorrow at the RV show. Let you know what I find out if I don't drive the salesmen too crazy.
2003 F550 2013 Flagstaff

67avion
Explorer II
Explorer II
MY BLUE HEAVEN wrote:
As 67avion's prior owner, I was the one that made the "monster", the extremely heavy duty belly bar. If you want to buy it, I bet he'd sell it to you at a reasonable price.

But his criticisms are quite valid, particularly if you off-road. With my new unit, I bought Torklifts for the front and copied Torklifts for the back to fit into the hitch ends.


Just to be clear, the belly bar certainly served its purpose...it handled my camper with never a problem. That is, until I went off road into some sketchy rocky road. And then I nearly had a disaster. My Blue Heaven was very clear about the belly bar when I got the camper from him several years ago, in fact he is an ideal PO.

So, if you never go off road or go over a curb, etc., there is nothing to worry about. If you do, then that solid belly bar could do some real damage.

YMMV.

Leland1950
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for all the critique's. Will be going to An Rv show Friday and there will be several TC's there and should be tie downs to look at. Because I'M building, not buying, the belly bar was certainly the easiest to make. I do not have to drill any holes, Ford must have all kinds of options on a 550 that they are used for. Mine is quite high with the 19.5 wheels and had to re-engineer the hitch to get the trailer level, the only off roading I do is parking the trailer in the back yard or race track parking and the TC will be on the Patio. I am also making that, about a quarter of the way there. By the way, drilling the sides of a frame within in reason does not weaken it at all. We had a frame drill at work because we mounted a lot of 5th wheel hitches that had 6 or so on each side for the 18 wheeler's.
2003 F550 2013 Flagstaff

kohldad
Explorer III
Explorer III
Torklifts doesn't require drilling as they use the bed bolt and exiting holes/slots in the flame.

However, if you are set on a belly bar, you can do the same without drilling a hole in the frame. For a high point, make a riser to catch the bed bolt. For a low point, use an elongated nut to fit in a nearby slot on the frame.


I had a belly bar I made for my truck when I picked up the camper. Could have also kept it but like the clean design of the Torklifts. They are tucked up tighter the sheet metal (by about 5" on my Ram), doesn't hand down below the frame (yes, I go over things a belly bar would catch on), and have the removable ends so aren't really seen when they are removed.
2015 Ram 3500 4x4 Crew Cab SRW 6.4 Hemi LB 3.73 (12.4 hand calc avg mpg after 92,000 miles with camper)
2004 Lance 815 (prev: 2004 FW 35'; 1994 TT 30'; Tents)

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
67avion wrote:
Torklifts are much better.click


And Torklift tie-downs don't require drilling through the frame of the truck, at leas all the ones I've seen don't require drilling.

Drilling through the truck frame seems like a bad idea.
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
If you want to do belly bars, go ahead, "knock yourself out." They'll work as good as anything if your design is solid. 2" x 1/4" wall tubing is more than adequate; the commercial bars don't look like they're more than 1-1/2" x 1/8" wall. Make sure your tiedowns allow for a little flex, though, as your bars won't, and may tend to pull the mounts out of the camper.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

GeoBoy
Explorer
Explorer
There is only 1 good way to secure your TC and that is with Torklift frame mounts. Don't be penny wise and dollar foolish!!

805gregg
Explorer
Explorer
Just get Happy Jac they have better holding angles and are much cheaper
2003 Dodge Quad Cab 3500 SRW LB Cummins diesel, Banks Six Gun, Banks exhaust, Mag hytec deep trans pan, and Diff cover. Buckstop bumper, Aerotanks 55gal tank, airbags, stableloads Bigwig stabilizer, 2003 Lance 1071 camper, solar and generator

My_Blue_Heaven
Explorer
Explorer
As 67avion's prior owner, I was the one that made the "monster", the extremely heavy duty belly bar. If you want to buy it, I bet he'd sell it to you at a reasonable price.

But his criticisms are quite valid, particularly if you off-road. With my new unit, I bought Torklifts for the front and copied Torklifts for the back to fit into the hitch ends.
2001 F350 Lariat CC 4WD 7.3 PSD dually, chipped, 4" SS exhaust, 350 hp, Rancho 9000's, front receiver, front & rear Roadmasters
2009 Arctic Fox 990S, storm windows, Cummins/Onan, FastGuns, Torklifts

67avion
Explorer II
Explorer II
Hi there. I posted on belly bars not long ago on this Forum. Take a look at my experience, which may be helpful to you. My advice is to not install a belly bar. Torklifts are much better.click

Leland1950
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks, I'll make sure. The tubing I have is 2" 1/4 wall, but the supplier is only 6 miles up the road if that doesn't seem heavy enough.
2003 F550 2013 Flagstaff

Jaxom
Explorer
Explorer
Make sure it's stout enough.

Jerry
2015 Jayco Seneca 36FK
2011 Jeep Wrangler Sport 2 door
2011 R & R 20' Aluminum Enclosed Car Hauler
2007 Montrose 16' Aluminum Flatbed ATV Trailer