Buyer's remorse??

[Herimpression]

Hi. I'm totally new to this site and RVING. Hubby is in the Navy and got orders to Virginia...we decided to take advantage of living on the other side of the country by traveling to all the neat places we've heard about. So buying a TT seemed like a no-brainer. We looked at everything from Class C to fifth wheel to ultralights. We decided to get a light TT so we didn't have to upgrade our vehicle. We have a 1500 suburban with a tow package that can pull 8100 pounds.

So after a year of looking we were in between the Keystone Bullet Premier 31BHPR or 34BHPR The bunk house and outdoor kitchen were requirements and both have them. So after a lot of thinking we picked the 34BHPR because it has more interior storage and we liked the kitchen layout with the island. (This was a really hard choice because the other model has an exterior door to the bathroom and it's 500 pounds lighter because it only has 2 slides we thought that was great too.) So, we put our down payment down and we are waiting for them to do the do the walk through with us next week when we take it home.

Now I'm waking up at night worried we picked the wrong one because of the island. I hadn't seen the inside with the slides pulled in until the day we bought it. When the slides are in you can't get to anything because the slides pull right up to the island and you would have to climb over it to get to the bunk house. And getting to anything in the kitchen or storage under the table isn't possible with slides in. So you can only get to the bathroom and master bedroom with slides in.

Is this going to be a big deal??? We are in Virginia and are planning on going all the way up to Maine and down to the Florida Keys. I'm scared I'll hate that I can't get to our stuff on long hauls. We usually pack a road trip cooler in the car when we travel so hubby doesn't think we'll need anything from the trailer when we're on the road. But I don't know since we're new to this. Please give me advice. I can still change my mind and buy the 31BHPR that doesn't have an island...the dealer will be mad...but we haven't signed on the dotted line yet. Thanks in advance for your help!

[Mont_G_J]

These recommendations and suggestions come from some of the most knowledgeable individuals in RV Trailers and towing that you’re ever going to find. This knowledge only comes from years of hands-on experience, reading and watching what others do, and having a general interest in safe RVing. (Us)
(Them) RV dealerships hire sales people; it would be a rare occurrence for one of these sales people to have ever owned a trailer or even pulled one farther than the fairgrounds for an RV open house. Some of the specifications they quote may be true, but do not work well in the real world of towing. Also, in my opinion the same would apply when requesting information from a vehicle manufacture. They have a whole room full of $10 an hour workers answering phones with a frequently asked question cheat sheet they refer too. The chances of talking to a real engineer or anyone with actual technical knowledge are zero.

[dodge_guy]

Herimpression wrote:
So, I'm really glad I joined your group! When I called the dealer to say hold the deal because I just learned this is unsafe he said he has sold this trailer to people with my exact vehicle before. He insisted it will be fine and said that he's never heard of the length of the TT being an issue and kinda laughed it off. Trust is lost there, clearly!

It's not so much the length (although that is very long), it's more to do with the weight! Ask them to sign off that your Burb will safely tow the trailer when loaded and I'm sure they'll back off or come up with more excuses! I would say most RV salesmen have no clue about RV'ing or what it even takes to figure out how all this works.

Good for you. Yes, we need more specs on your Burb, engine, axle ratio, factory tow pkg, axle rating, GVWR and CCC, etc. then we can give you more accurate answers on what you can tow.

[SoundGuy]

Herimpression wrote:
Off the top of my head it's a 2009 1500 suburban V8 with a cooling package/tow package.

That helps as I suspect a 2009 would have the improved 6 speed transmission rather than the older, wide ratio 4 speed I have in my Avalanche. Axle ratio is also critical as too many of these vehicles were equipped with non-tow friendly ratios, including the 3.42 I'm running in my Av. You'll want the GCWR for your particular version of Sub (should be in your owner's manual) and it's GVWR which should be listed on the door jamb label. Payload will also be listed but it would be better to actually weigh the truck with a full tank of gas, if the driver is in the vehicle at the time of weighing subtract that weight from the scaled weight ... subtract that number from the vehicle's GVWR and you'll have it's real world payload capacity as it sits there ready to be hitched to a trailer. You'd probably want to also account for an average 100 lbs for the weight distirbution system that you'll have to use when towing, the object being to keep in mind that whatever payload you have available is used to account for the weight of everything added to the vehicle - people, cargo, and any tongue weight transferred to the truck from the trailer.

I know it has airbags that inflate when you hook the trailer to it.

Airbags may make the truck look "pretty" - i.e. relatively level front to back - but won't do a thing to put weight back on to the truck's front steer axle once the trailer has been dropped on to the hitch ball. For that there is only one solution, a properly sized and adjusted weight distribution system. Believe it, you need it, no exceptions.

When I called the dealer to say hold the deal because I just learned this is unsafe he said he has sold this trailer to people with my exact vehicle before. He insisted it will be fine and said that he's never heard of the length of the TT being an issue and kinda laughed it off.

That would be a typical response from most dealers who think they already have a deal in the bag. Sometimes it's just better to say you're just not comfortable with the deal and just leave it at that, no explanations necessary. 😉

[Need-A-Vacation]

spoon059 wrote:

Herimpression wrote:
We're feeling like a couple dumbasses right now for just listening to the dealer...but we're grateful for all this much needed information.

The dumbass would (and plenty have...) come here AFTER the fact and try to justify bad decisions. You appear to want information to make an educated decision.

Good luck and THANK YOU for your service.

X2, TY for your service!!!

In my crazy thinking it is even worse when one comes here before the purchase asking for advice, like you, but unlike you, still goes ahead with the purchase when it is obviously to large of a trailer. Then tries to justify it.

You guys are being very smart by asking before signing the papers, and now re-thinking this decision!!!! Who knows, maybe you guys will go ahead with the purchase of the trailer, and get a larger truck!!! Lol

As for the slides, like I mentioned, comes down to personal preference. With our trailer, we have access to all of the kitchen with the slide in, but not the bunk room or wardrobe in the short "hallway". To get to the drivers side of the front bed we do need to either put the slide out, our crawl over the bed/squeeze by at the foot of the bed. We do have access to the bathroom as we have an entrance directly into it. I do like that!!! Very nice when sitting by the fire and nature calls!!! No need to track the dirt through the whole trailer.

Good luck!!!

[hbrady]

Herimpression wrote:
We're feeling like a couple dumbasses right now for just listening to the dealer...but we're grateful for all this much needed information.

I wish I was that dumb 😉 Good thing you came and got advice from the folks with experience, your instincts serve you well!

I bought a new truck last year, then my DW and I got our 1st TT, a 30' 8,000lb (loaded) trailer. I soon discovered my truck (rated for 9100) was woefully unqualified for the job. Long trips with the tail wagging the dog and the truck struggling to maintain speed on hills is a MISERABLE experience. I've since traded for a 3/4 ton truck and took a big time bath on the trade. So, it could be worse :B

Good luck and happy travels :C

[Thom02099]

Good on you for cancelling that trailer order. And good on you for learning from that horrible experience you had in that previous crash.

Everyone who's posted replies here have one thing in mind...safety. YOUR safety. Otherwise they would not post their opinions. There's a wealth of advice offered here. There is absolutely no reason for you to feel as though you are dumbasses. You came here seeking advice, it was offered, and you heeded it. The way I see it, that's using wisdom.

Go back to square one. Start a new trailer search. Ask for opinions here BEFORE you commit to a purchase and/or use the SEARCH feature to research prior posts about any trailer that interests you.

And God Bless your family for your service!!

[SoundGuy]

toedtoes wrote:
Back to the access with slides in, for me, I think the "it's no big deal"/"it's a deal breaker" choice has a lot to do with how you use the RV.

Agree completely. :B I've always been a "no slide" person, probably borne out of our earlier days when we did a lot of long distance traveling and the last thing I would have ever wanted to do 1000 miles from home in the middle of nowhere would be to deal with some sort of slide issue. :M. Our current trailer is the first one we've ever owned with a slide and although it's just a shallow sofa slide it took a lot of convincing to talk me into it. So far in three seasons we've had no issues with it but I have to admit that every time I hit the slide switch I always say to myself - "Is this finally that time the darned slide won't work?" So far, so good, but I doubt I'll ever lose that uneasiness. That said, I made darned sure that if we did pick a trailer with a slide we would still be able to access everything inside it without having to deploy the slide at all. Some may consider this to be no issue at all but I just have no interest at all in pulling over in a pouring rainstorm and having to deploy / retract the slide just so we can get inside and use the camper for a lunch break or pee break or whatever. The other issue for us is parking the trailer here at home where a deployed slide would intrude too closely to the property line ... for those who never go inside or use their trailer when it's parked at home this wouldn't be a concern but In my case I'm in it pretty well every day, even though the slide is fully stored - hey, it's my Man Cave. :B

As toedtoes said, it's all in how you intend to use the camper that should determine your slide choice.

[firestorm79]

Most of the advice on this forum is invaluable. If we had listened to the dealer we would not only be pulling a trailer well over our payload but with a truck struggling to tow it up moderate hills. The dealer told us "no problem". Don't let the allure of the fancy trailer cloud your judgement on the capabilities of your tow vehicle. It is THAT important!

Don't aim for something that is right on the limits of your tow vehicle's capabilities either. There's a reason many people here say you'll be upgrading your TV soon after buying such a trailer.

[McDaddy]

Just remember that the extra time spent now in finding an RV that your tow vehicle is able to comfortably tow or having to make the decision to upgrade your tow vehicle in order to get the RV that you want, will be time well spent and will greatly enhance your camping experiences. This is supposed to be fun.

[RwaSmith]

Herimpression wrote:
We're feeling like a couple dumbasses right now for just listening to the dealer...but we're grateful for all this much needed information.

As I said I did the exact same thing and listened to the dealer. They are just trying to earn a check like the rest of us. Great job in finding out the details.

There are some on here that really know their stuff

[toedtoes]

Back to the access with slides in, for me, I think the "it's no big deal"/"it's a deal breaker" choice has a lot to do with how you use the RV.

If you will be driving to a destination and staying there for a while, I think it's no big deal. Have a cooler with snacks in the TV, pull over in a big space to put out the slide and use the bathroom. Get to your destination, put out the slide and enjoy the extra counterspace.

If you will be doing a lot of overnighting, staying in public campgrounds, etc., then it is more likely to be an issue. You might not be able to open the slide when parking overnight at truck stops, some public campgrounds may have overgrown trees that prevent you from opening the slide, etc.

The bathroom access may be an issue if either of you have a weak bladder. It could be an issue with little kids who tend to ignore having to pee until it's a major emergency - and then, that 10-15 second delay could be disastrous. Do that a couple times each day while on the road and you very well could decide access is a deal breaker (I say that as having been the small kid with a small bladder - 2 to 3 stops on a 4 hour drive and an emergency every time).

[McDaddy]

Here is a link to the 2009 Trailer Life towing guide which should provide some good reading for all of your weight concerns regarding towing.
http://www.trailerlife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Trailer-Life-Towing-Guide-2009.pdf

[spoon059]

Herimpression wrote:
We're feeling like a couple dumbasses right now for just listening to the dealer...but we're grateful for all this much needed information.

The dumbass would (and plenty have...) come here AFTER the fact and try to justify bad decisions. You appear to want information to make an educated decision.

I think that is to much trailer for your truck. On a half ton truck your biggest issue is PAYLOAD, as others have mentioned. Your LOADED tongue weight, weight distribution hitch, the kids, dogs and any gear you pack in the truck all eat into payload. My experience with 2 kids and 3 dogs is to try to keep your loaded tongue weight at about half of your total payload. That leaves the other half for passengers and gear in the truck.

The 34 foot long trailer is a LOT of trailer behind a half ton too. I would encourage you to keep it smaller than 28 feet if possible.

The argument about slides is all about your personal opinion. We cannot access our bathroom with the slide closed. It takes 10 seconds to extend the slide if we need to use it in an emergency. Our dinette and couch are on the slide. When we stop at a rest area for lunch, we just extend the slide to sit and eat and use the bathroom. If it is too busy/crowded to find a spot to extend the slide then we either eat on the road or we find a picnic table. Not a deal breaker to me at all.

Good luck and THANK YOU for your service.

[hohenwald48]

I think you're doing the right thing and you have gotten a lot of sage advice so far. Come back with truck details and folks will provide you with more information than you probably want to hear. You really are on the heavy side and I doubt you would be comfortable pulling that trailer.

As far as the slide issue is concerned, we have a similar design in a different trailer. It hasn't really been a problem for us. We just put out the pax side slide a foot or so and we have access to both the fridge and bath. Takes about 15 seconds. Yours may be more complicated than that. However, I guarantee you'll appreciate every slide you have while you are parked in a campground. They make a huge difference in interior space.

Don't trust the dealer or the salesman. Most are not very knowledgeable about towing factors and have never towed an RV. They are probably not intentionally trying to lie to you, they just don't know any better. They sell trailers, they don't necessarily use trailers.

[2012Coleman]

As stated before, the salesman knows squat about towing. The biggest issue you face is the payload of your TV. Airbags don't increase the payload. Payload will be exceeded before you reach the "stated" tow capacity.

Go here to upload a picture of the door jamb sticker.