Buying 1st Travel Trailer Go Large or Not?

[MarkRBD2019]

Hi, I am new to this forum and I would appreciate the views of all you Travel Trailer experienced hands on this question.
I am looking to buy a custom built 36' Travel Trailer made by Recreation by Design that will weigh approx. 8000 LBS. I intend to use a Reese or similar hitch and sway/weight distribution set up on a Ram 1500 with a 3.92 differential, 5.7 Hemi 8 cylinder and a factory rated towing capacity of 10440 LBS. I intend to keep my total vehicle weight below 10440 LBS including passengers and cargo. I will be installing a back up camera with wide angle on the trailer.
I have been told by an experienced RV guy that the trailer is too much for my truck and that the length will cause me all kinds of problems, regardless of what Ram says the tow rating is and what kind of sway/distribution hitch system I put on it.

Any Thoughts from your RV Trailer Trailer pros on this or anything else I am thinking about and trying to do here?
Mark

[Jebby14]

The you don't have enough payload or wheelbase horses have been beaten to death. I agree, you don't. I think you understand that. One point I didn't see brought up was although you think you will be packed light now, if you start to take extended trips you will get heavy fast, those recliners wont be light, cookware isn't light, propane and batteries aren't light, your hitch wont be light and you wont have much room for toys. is a minimalist lifestyle one you want?

[Ride_S40T]

Lantley, great advice IMO.

The OP is asking as a new arrival to RVing, not a veteran. As a newbie I was able to do the simple math to ensure we were GTG but I've hauled many types of loads over the years - and I did lots of homework on RVs. Albeit after we bought it.

The specs, weight limits, and other considerations are there beyond just simple liability of a manufacturer of a TV or TT. There's science (theirs, not mine) that these independent sources use in these worksheets. They factor what is safe, not just what could or can be towed. Can be a huge difference.

[Lantley]

CaLBaR wrote:

yillb wrote:
I'm sorry you have to deal with all the people who can't do basic math. If the trailer is within the limitations that your truck is capable of, then so be it.

I noticed a couple of people were saying don't pay attention to the dry weight.... ffs, sorry for them too. The dry weight of the trailer is the most important weight you can look at. This is how you get an idea of how much the trailer weighs before you add propane, water, goods, etc. Since it has a GVWR the logic is you must know the exact weight of everything going into the trailer. Take your try weight, and add all that additional weight you added to the dry weight. Then you have your weight. Why anyone would tell you dry weight is basically useless, just can't do basic math. Now, your truck, with a 10K towing capacity. IF your trailer weighs 8k dry, let's just ASSUME you manage to add 1000 pounds worth of ****, so it gets up to 9k, you're still within your limits. That will put you at around 800 - 1000 pounds in tongue weight. You didn't mention your payload ( or at least I did not see it ), if you have an extra 1000 pounds of payload on a ram, kudos to you. The only thing i see here is " not doable " is going to be your payload, and that's even debatable, I don't know what your payload is, though I'm assuming it's somehwere around 1600 / 1800. After adding in kids / animals / wive(s), what's left?. Everything else is within your limitations. you have a long trailer, and that ram has a short wheelbase compared to other full 1 ton trucks. However, they don't sell trucks and say " Gotta keep the length below X ". Have fun!

I couldn't agree more. Well said. That is how I decided that my current trailer will be OK for my truck. I knew how much stuff I put into my old trailer so knew I would be close but within my tow ratings. Used that plus battery, propane weights to estimate tongue weight loaded. Not perfect but I was close enough once I weighed the combo to my estimate that it worked out well.

Things to consider with dry weight. What is the source of the dry weight info? If it is the brochure dry weight they are notoriously inaccurate vs. the actual stick on the trailer.
If you are using dry weight and are a total newbie what do you do with this figure? Do you take it as it is? Do you add to it? How accurate do you need to be? STill lots of variables using dry weight especially if you are a rookie.
If you have experience the idea of sizing it up a combo is less challenging. You are not in the dark as much as someone who has never done it so the loaded vs. dry scenario is less daunting.
If you are new have no idea GVW leaves more margin for error vs. dialing it in using dry weights. Rookies do not know how to dial it in or add the correct cargo amount to the dry weight.
GVW is a more foolproof figure, less variables or other factors to consider.

[2012Coleman]

MarkRBD2019 wrote:
Folks, just so you will know, I appreciate each and every comment you have made and based on your more experienced views I am rethinking my plan for a TT and considering a 28' to 30' box instead and a rental tryout.
I dont know anything about renting a TT, any advice on that? Think based on the comments that have been posted, I better have some insurance on the rental when if I get one. LOL

RVShare.com

[2012Coleman]

Ride S40T wrote:

CaLBaR wrote:

Ride S40T wrote:
You're going to hear varying degrees of good advice on RV forums and A LOT of solid recommendations based on years of experience.

After considering any or everything read here, please please go out to one of the reputable sites like Shereline and run all the TV and TT specs. Find a worksheet that uses all the specs all the way down to the wheelbase, do not use a simple "pulling capacity" worksheet produced by TV manufacturers.

Can you supply the links or the websites that you are referencing that take wheelbase and other information into account. I did a search and could not find one and it would be great if people on the forum could look that up for some additional information when trying to decide on TV/trailer combinations.

Thanks,

Just a few tow capacity Links. Google, be our friend.

Well, I googled "Shereline" and came up with nothing

[CaLBaR]

yillb wrote:
I'm sorry you have to deal with all the people who can't do basic math. If the trailer is within the limitations that your truck is capable of, then so be it.

I noticed a couple of people were saying don't pay attention to the dry weight.... ffs, sorry for them too. The dry weight of the trailer is the most important weight you can look at. This is how you get an idea of how much the trailer weighs before you add propane, water, goods, etc. Since it has a GVWR the logic is you must know the exact weight of everything going into the trailer. Take your try weight, and add all that additional weight you added to the dry weight. Then you have your weight. Why anyone would tell you dry weight is basically useless, just can't do basic math. Now, your truck, with a 10K towing capacity. IF your trailer weighs 8k dry, let's just ASSUME you manage to add 1000 pounds worth of ****, so it gets up to 9k, you're still within your limits. That will put you at around 800 - 1000 pounds in tongue weight. You didn't mention your payload ( or at least I did not see it ), if you have an extra 1000 pounds of payload on a ram, kudos to you. The only thing i see here is " not doable " is going to be your payload, and that's even debatable, I don't know what your payload is, though I'm assuming it's somehwere around 1600 / 1800. After adding in kids / animals / wive(s), what's left?. Everything else is within your limitations. you have a long trailer, and that ram has a short wheelbase compared to other full 1 ton trucks. However, they don't sell trucks and say " Gotta keep the length below X ". Have fun!

I couldn't agree more. Well said. That is how I decided that my current trailer will be OK for my truck. I knew how much stuff I put into my old trailer so knew I would be close but within my tow ratings. Used that plus battery, propane weights to estimate tongue weight loaded. Not perfect but I was close enough once I weighed the combo to my estimate that it worked out well.

[yillb]

I'm sorry you have to deal with all the people who can't do basic math. If the trailer is within the limitations that your truck is capable of, then so be it.

I noticed a couple of people were saying don't pay attention to the dry weight.... ffs, sorry for them too. The dry weight of the trailer is the most important weight you can look at. This is how you get an idea of how much the trailer weighs before you add propane, water, goods, etc. Since it has a GVWR the logic is you must know the exact weight of everything going into the trailer. Take your try weight, and add all that additional weight you added to the dry weight. Then you have your weight. Why anyone would tell you dry weight is basically useless, just can't do basic math. Now, your truck, with a 10K towing capacity. IF your trailer weighs 8k dry, let's just ASSUME you manage to add 1000 pounds worth of ****, so it gets up to 9k, you're still within your limits. That will put you at around 800 - 1000 pounds in tongue weight. You didn't mention your payload ( or at least I did not see it ), if you have an extra 1000 pounds of payload on a ram, kudos to you. The only thing i see here is " not doable " is going to be your payload, and that's even debatable, I don't know what your payload is, though I'm assuming it's somehwere around 1600 / 1800. After adding in kids / animals / wive(s), what's left?. Everything else is within your limitations. you have a long trailer, and that ram has a short wheelbase compared to other full 1 ton trucks. However, they don't sell trucks and say " Gotta keep the length below X ". Have fun!

[315RLTSinPA]

donn0128 wrote:
Good luck attempting to tow that monster. Even with a 3500 36 feet behind it would not be a good fit.

People crack me up. We have a 38ft travel trailer and it tows like a dream.

[babock]

We decided to stay under 25'. Our trailer is 24'11" but it has 2 slides so it's very large inside. There have been many campsites we go to where a longer trailer wouldn't fit well.

[time2roll]

Why so big? Large family? Toys? I would try to stay in at 25/30' for better towing and easier campsite fitment.

Maybe rent something for a few days/week before you custom build an RV. Very easy to get carried away on all the 'must haves' that just aren't.

For best towing experience I recommend keeping the trailer GVWR within the tow rating. Forget dry weight unless you plan to just haul empty trailers for a living.

[Ride_S40T]

And the spreadsheet that started it all for us. A little simpler. Green checkmark, GTG.

https://www.keepyourdaydream.com/payload/comment-page-5/

[Ride_S40T]

CaLBaR wrote:

Ride S40T wrote:
You're going to hear varying degrees of good advice on RV forums and A LOT of solid recommendations based on years of experience.

After considering any or everything read here, please please go out to one of the reputable sites like Shereline and run all the TV and TT specs. Find a worksheet that uses all the specs all the way down to the wheelbase, do not use a simple "pulling capacity" worksheet produced by TV manufacturers.

"Can" you haul something that big behind a 1500 (any make)? Sure. Will it be unsafe or kill the truck? Possibly. Run the numbers, even those wheelbase specs are important. Let the science behind towing be your first guide. Then decide on a TT within those parameters.

Lastly, please know dry weight & tongue weight issued by TT mfgrs can be a little optimistic on the low side. We used a tongue scale to find out our hitch weight is about 100lbs more than advertised.

Can you supply the links or the websites that you are referencing that take wheelbase and other information into account. I did a search and could not find one and it would be great if people on the forum could look that up for some additional information when trying to decide on TV/trailer combinations.

Thanks,

Just a few tow capacity Links. Google, be our friend.

http://changingears.com/rv-sec-calc-trailer-weight-tt.shtml

https://www.huskytow.com/towing-calculator/

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=2ahUKEwiSiKGvqrXgAhUO24MKHYk-A70QFjAAegQIChAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.popthetop.com%2Ffiles%2FTowingCapacityWorksheet.xls&usg=AOvVaw2fZsU5Xv3ayY7Zcblc9aui

And pulled from the site we’re on: “Rule of thumb (110” wheelbase for 20’ trailer + 4” additional wheelbase for each additional 1’ of trailer)”

Up and down these sheets, our 1500 Sierra cleared the specs for our 250URS (actual length 27.9 ft) trailer that weighs in just over 6K loaded Allows us the comfort margins we sought (about 30%-40% buffer). Wheelbase for the truck just made it with the rule of thumb, by 1.5” so no buffer there. And it seems everything gets a bit heavier when we hit the scales…just sayin’. Best time to do the math is before buying.

Ahh, I'm still a rookie. But I read a lot. I research for hours just reading about water heaters, towing woes, boon docking, winterization, etc. in an effort to catch up.

Hope the small bit of info helps.

[MarkRBD2019]

Folks, just so you will know, I appreciate each and every comment you have made and based on your more experienced views I am rethinking my plan for a TT and considering a 28' to 30' box instead and a rental tryout.
I dont know anything about renting a TT, any advice on that? Think based on the comments that have been posted, I better have some insurance on the rental when if I get one. LOL

[Terryallan]

MarkRBD2019 wrote:
Thanks I appreciate all the comments, keep them coming. I need to check the payload of my Ram but it sounds like this idea is going down like the Titanic. Sounds like I need a lot less TT or a lot more truck.

Yep, You do. For that TT a much larger TV will be needed. It's heavy, and it's long. Approaching 350 territory..

And another thought. Where are you planning on camping? A TT that long often has trouble finding a CG that can take it in. Twisty mountain roads become a problem as well.