Cabinet hardware recommendations

[Freep]

During the last trip we had to tape a cabinet shut because the hinge had come loose. We've been frustrated with the latches and hinges in the Lance camper for some time now and I think I need to just go ahead and replace it all. I'm sure some of you guys have already gone through this process and I'd like some suggestions please.

One other item I'd like to replace is the latch for the wet bath. It's this weird little button latch that doesn't work well. In fact, I ended up locking myself in the bathroom during the last trip when I shut the door and then couldn't open it from the inside. That stupid thing has to go.

[Freep]

Weird. Somehow my post about struts got deleted.

We ended up switching our overhead kitchen cabinets from opening left to right and right to left to both of them opening from the bottom up. This required moving the hinges from the sides to the top and installing the gas struts below. This had the added benefit of stopping the rattling that would happen. We go so tired of the rattling that we would latch the door with a napkin wedged in it.

Now with the struts when the door is shut, it's pulled shut.

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B01KPW4YQI

[c_traveler2]

Freep wrote:
During the last trip we had to tape a cabinet shut because the hinge had come loose. We've been frustrated with the latches and hinges in the Lance camper for some time now and I think I need to just go ahead and replace it all. I'm sure some of you guys have already gone through this process and I'd like some suggestions please.

One other item I'd like to replace is the latch for the wet bath. It's this weird little button latch that doesn't work well. In fact, I ended up locking myself in the bathroom during the last trip when I shut the door and then couldn't open it from the inside. That stupid thing has to go.

BunduvryUSA uses this type of cabinet latches, they won't come open once set. Never had any cabinet doors come open with these lacthes regardless of how rough the road was.


push button latch

[stevenal]

After a water bar unloaded my kitchen cabinets onto the floor and dogs, I supplemented the hinge struts with magnet style latches from Amazon. I think they were rated 60 lbs each, and ended up with two per cabinet. Must be a problem with the conversions, because there is no way it takes 120 lbs to open. It does take a sharp pull however. Also ditch the included screws and get some good ones.

[Freep]

OK, I feel kind of stupid. I asked my father in law to take a look at the cabinets and he asked me if the wood was stripped on the cabinet or the door. It's the cabinet.

"Just drill through the cabinet and use bolts with lock washers."

Simple and effective.

[AnEv942]

Sigs only show once (per page)

Round toothpicks or wood match sticks and wood glue.
Usually unless a thru hole or really wallowed I dont let it set before threading screw (cabinet screws). Cant imagine your hinges wore out. We replaced ours, they were sloppy and barrel leaves splitting (other than bright shiny brass). Use the same size small screws, and several got toothpick 'backing'

[Kayteg1]

For stripped holes you need a glue that is also a filler, what Crazy Glue is not.
Water-based wood glue will take days to dry, so IMHO hard to beat epoxy.
If that is emergency, use 5 minutes epoxy, but those are expensive.
I am buying epoxy in 1 gallon container for laminating. That one gives you time to work before it sets, that is why I say give it overnight.

[Freep]

mkirsch wrote:
That is a common carpentry repair for stripped screw holes in wood. Don't you watch TV at all? This Old House, half the shows on HGTV and DIY network... all at one time or another show this repair. It's a good low budget way to fill 5 minutes of airtime.

That's where I got the idea to use toothpicks and I knew we had them, superglue and a drill available. But I had to convince my wife first, since it's her TC.

I think the screws are too small for this application. I'm pretty sure I'm going to just replace them all while I'm at it.

I also like the dowel suggestion and I think I'm going to go that route and maybe add a little more wood on the back side too since the wood is already thin and cracked.

Thanks for chiming in.

[mkirsch]

That is a common carpentry repair for stripped screw holes in wood. Don't you watch TV at all? This Old House, half the shows on HGTV and DIY network... all at one time or another show this repair. It's a good low budget way to fill 5 minutes of airtime.

Epoxy, wood glue, even crazy glue will work in a pinch. Epoxy has the advantage of being cheap, and having a version that cures completely in 5 minutes so you are not sitting around all day waiting for the glue to dry. Crazy glue is expensive if you buy the stupid little metal tubes.

If you want to be more sophisticated use hardwood dowels instead of toothpicks. Drill out the hole for the dowel, epoxy the dowel in, trim off flush with the surface, and drill a new hole in the dowel.

[Freep]

Kayteg1 wrote:
It is showing, but too often members don't change signature when they change RV and in case like that you don't want false accusation.
Commenting on the issue "they don't build them like that anymore"

OK thanks. So epoxy and toothpicks, not wood glue?

I actually told my wife I could use toothpicks and glue during the trip and she was skeptical. I probably would have done it if I had something better than crazy glue or jbweld available.

[Kayteg1]

It is showing, but too often members don't change signature when they change RV and in case like that you don't want false accusation.
Commenting on the issue "they don't build them like that anymore"

[Freep]

Kayteg1 wrote:
The pictured doors have solid wood, at least on the frames and at 17 years they hold perfectly, so let's hear what model of Lance you have with so many problems?
For stripped screw holes, I would just get some epoxy and dip toothpicks in it to insert into the holes.
Give it overnight to dry and it is going to be stronger than original.

It's a 2014 992.

I'm not sure why it's not showing up in my posts anymore.

[Kayteg1]

The pictured doors have solid wood, at least on the frames and at 17 years they hold perfectly, so let's hear what model of Lance you have with so many problems?
For stripped screw holes, I would just get some epoxy and dip toothpicks in it to insert into the holes.
Give it overnight to dry and it is going to be stronger than original.

[SidecarFlip]

My supposedly cheapo Palomino has real hardwood doors and I mean hard as in you'd better drill a pilot hole or a screw isn't going in. Door wise or drawer wise, nothing has ever loosened up or sagged. Very substantial woodwork.

If I remember correctly, the Lance I sold had much thinner doors that my present TC.

[Freep]

The hinges are the biggest problem, or maybe it's just the screws. They end up coming out, the holes get stripped and the doors are no longer square. It seems like the materials and construction are not up to the challenge of a vehicle that vibrates a lot. The wood has split on about half of the cabinets where latches or hinges are attached.

I'm even thinking about making a locking bar that clamps down over the cabinet doors from the outside to keep them from popping open during travel.