Can you check my weight numbers please

[mlayton]

Thanks again for all the help I've gotten as we try to find the right TT for us! I wondered if someone could look over our numbers. All info was taken directly from the car or the Ford Towing guide.

We have a 2012 For Expedition EL with the V8 engine, 4x4 and upgraded class IV tow pkg.

Max loaded trailer = 8700#
Hitch & receiver capacity with a WD hitch = 890#
Max Occ & cargo (payload) = 1422#
Gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) = 7720#
Gross combined weight rating (GVW + loaded trailer) = 15000#
RGAWR = 4250#
FGAWR = 3700#
curb vehicle weight = 6078#

Our GVW we calculated to be:
6078 + ~700 (4 passengers, dogs and some cargo) = 6678# so we are OK here since max is 7720#

Our Gross Combo weight (GVW + loaded trailer) was estimated at:
6678 + 5800 (the selected TT wts) + 1000# stuff = 13478# so we are OK there since max is 15000#

Edited to add the "hitch weight" of the TT's we've looked at has been in the 560-590# range.

Payload was calculated to be:
350# (2 adults) + 150# (2 kids) + 150# (2 dogs) + 100# misc. stuff = 750# so we are OK there with room to spare!

So here is the "debated part" as to what would be OK for the LOADED trailer weight. If we use the 13-15% range advised here, our LOADED trailer should be between 5930-6850#. Ford book does advise 10-15% for the weights but we'd like to stay on the side of not pushing it to the max.

The trailers we are looking at all seem to hover in the 5200-5800# dry weight (this is not just the listed weight, these are actual on-th-lot weights). Allowing 1000# buffer for stuff, brings us right up to or desired max of 6200-6800#. What do you guys think? Initially my husband had really hoped to be lower in weight and have more buffer. I have decided these salesman know nothing - they keep trying to show us trailers in the high 6000# weights!!!! Telling us we are looking way lower than we need to. This would be our first experience with a TT. We are more "weekend warrior" type campers and will certainly do some week long trips but by no means living in this. We are camping mostly in the Pennsylvania and other East-coast areas.

[Mickeyfan0805]

I think previous posters are correct - you are likely over-shooting your payload in these options. You are smart to look at the weakest link in the chain, and for a 1/2 ton SUV, that is usually payload.

Looking at that item only...I'm assuming the 1,422 came from the door. If so, that is likely the most accurate number (although it may not even bee 100% accurate). But, we'll go with it.

You are calculating 650 pounds of passenger weight and 100 pounds of gear. My guess is that your 100 pounds of gear is low (crates for the dogs, food and entertainment for the kids, tools, etc...). Also, your 650 of passenger weight will increase as the kids grow. Finally, neither of these include the 75 pounds or so that your WD hitch will add to the calculations. So, all in all, you are at a minimum of 825, and likely more, that you have to deduct from your payload.

That leaves you 597 pounds for tongue weight (we'll round off to 600 for ease). At 10% (probably too low, but we'll go with it figuring a 12% tongue weight with 15-20% of the weight redistributed back to the TT and away from the TV), that still only allows for a 6,000 pound trailer - fully loaded.

Also, remember that your a trailer will arrive, empty, anywhere from 200-400 pounds heavier than the 'dry weight' or 'UVW' listed in the pamphlets. So, if you are figuring on 1,000 pounds above the published weight, you are actually only figuring 600-800 pounds of your gear and liquids.

In the end, we are a family of 5 with 1 dog (fairly similar to your) and figured that an Expedition would limit us to under 5k dry - and that was planning to never travel with anything in the tanks. That's why we ended up with a 3/4 ton Suburban.

Good luck!

[adayjk]

mlayton wrote:
so what should we do to weigh it - just load the car portion like we are going camping - kids, dogs gas & stuff??? Then is it just the whole car or do you then just weigh the front tires and then the same for the back??

Just trying to get this right since in all the reading and number pulling - we realized many people are probably towing beyond the TV recommendations because you must take ALL the numbers into account and be sure not to exceed any of them. Per the Ford Tow guide, you have to account for the weakest link in the chain. Just because you are rated to tow 8700#, doesn't mean you actually can tow it safely. We were actually a little surprised. Even the payload amounts - man, 4 big guys heading out on a fishing trip could tip that payload number once you account for the hitch. Just was a little shocking.

When I owned a business that used vans for hauling equipment I would run into this all the time. After some math we needed E250's just to scrape by. We would fill up the gas tank and get them weighed fully loaded too. There are no 5 lug cars or trucks with a GVWR much over 6000#, so its pretty easy to spot other things on the road over the limit too.

On holiday weekdends at the local campground I'll guess a full half of the TTs are over.

It would be easier to load it all up and weigh it, but if you cannot you can get close enough with a bahtroom scale after you have vehicle weight.

[APT]

mlayton wrote:
Hmm - my husband has the truck with the owners book so I can check later but if I do the math on the GVWR of 7720# and subtract out the wt of the car, that leaves 1642# and it currently says max payload is only 1420#, my guess is that the other 220# is allowing some for the driver and a tank of gas but I'd have to check to be sure. So maybe my passenger weight is actually lower??? Maybe I'm wrong.

The extra 220 pounds are due to higher trim level and equipment than the base XLT no options Expy. Driver is not included in the payload, but a full tank of fuel is.

[mlayton]

so what should we do to weigh it - just load the car portion like we are going camping - kids, dogs gas & stuff??? Then is it just the whole car or do you then just weigh the front tires and then the same for the back??

Just trying to get this right since in all the reading and number pulling - we realized many people are probably towing beyond the TV recommendations because you must take ALL the numbers into account and be sure not to exceed any of them. Per the Ford Tow guide, you have to account for the weakest link in the chain. Just because you are rated to tow 8700#, doesn't mean you actually can tow it safely. We were actually a little surprised. Even the payload amounts - man, 4 big guys heading out on a fishing trip could tip that payload number once you account for the hitch. Just was a little shocking.

[sch911]

IMHO Until you actually weigh your vehicle on a scale you wont really know how much you can tow. Using "ratings" might get you close. Might being the key word here. Get to a scale.

[mlayton]

Hmm - my husband has the truck with the owners book so I can check later but if I do the math on the GVWR of 7720# and subtract out the wt of the car, that leaves 1642# and it currently says max payload is only 1420#, my guess is that the other 220# is allowing some for the driver and a tank of gas but I'd have to check to be sure. So maybe my passenger weight is actually lower??? Maybe I'm wrong.

[Old-Biscuit]

dahkota wrote:
Actually, he is over on payload.
Even only considering 10% of 6800 = 680.
Payload of 1422 - 680 = 742.
Estimation of all passengers, dogs, and cargo = 750.
He is cutting it very close on payload. What he may check is if the payload capacity includes the driver and a full tank of gas. If it does (as it does in my truck) he should have just a bit more leeway.

X2

Weight of hitch plus tongue weight plus anything in tow vehicle (wife, kids, dogs, stuff etc.) all are part of 'payload'

That being said.....
Think you should stick to 6800# (even up to 7000#) Gross Weight of trailer.

[dahkota]

Actually, he is over on payload.
Even only considering 10% of 6800 = 680.
Payload of 1422 - 680 = 742.
Estimation of all passengers, dogs, and cargo = 750.
He is cutting it very close on payload. What he may check is if the payload capacity includes the driver and a full tank of gas. If it does (as it does in my truck) he should have just a bit more leeway.

[downtheroad]

You are wise to be doing this kind of research BEFORE you buy..many don't (including) me the first time.

Your numbers and calculations look good..Payload is the biggie, not towing capacity.

I can only recommend that you be very careful with the brochure stated dry weights..they can be very misleading and may not include such items as propane tanks, batteries, awning, and any upgrades and upgrade packages that you ordered or that the dealer installed. Also don't forget the hitching equipment

Good luck with your search...and again, think payload