Caulking and maintenance

[nwbearcat1998]

Hello, I'm a newbie to maintaining my new TT.

I previously owned an older trailer; I'll admit didn't take care of as much as I should've and took a loss on it to sell it.

I did maintain the roof by filling cracks with self leveling dicor is all.

I don't want to make that same mistake again so before winterizing the trailer in the next two weeks what are the best maintenance item to review?

For example, the places where the corner molding is attached and old caulking is cracked on the outside of it should be scraped off and replaced??

[nwbearcat1998]

nwbearcat1998 wrote:
I used the following
Geocel 28100V Pro Flex Crystal Clear RV Flexible Sealant

I got it from Amazon, see link above.

[2012Coleman]

bobndot wrote:
Agree with ken56, the 'Proflex RV' also comes in 'brite white' which does not yellow like I found using the regular 'white' but using clear is fine.

Where can you get this?

[Scott_M]

I have started using Sikaflex 1a polyurethane construction sealant to seal around my wall penetrations on FW. I started using this product on my house about 10 years ago and so far no failures and it still looks good as new. Adhesion and elasticity factors are really good, so it will withstand movement and sticks well. Started using on FW about a year ago with no joint failures. It comes in many colors.

There are a couple of downsides to the product. First, like most urethane products, it is a real mess on the hands and work surfaces. Second, it also takes a while to cure (moisture cure). Areas with low humidity may need a couple of light mists of water. The joints need to be mask with painters tape prior to application.

I still use Dicor products when it comes to the roof.

[nwbearcat1998]

I used the following
Geocel 28100V Pro Flex Crystal Clear RV Flexible Sealant

[westend]

proflex is a great caulk. I have had bad luck with clear...it just is worthless. Use Black or White. I found out the clear is the only one allowed for use in California...that should tell you something...this is on Geocells website.

When searching the SDS and PDS of the various Geocel Proflex sealants, I get the same .pdf caution sheets for all colors of their Proflex products. Maybe they have changed the formulation recently.

Typically, the CA use cautions relate to that list of chemicals that CA has found to induce cancer. That may be the benzene ethylate or other solvents used in the formulation.

FWIW, I've used Geocel's 2300 series of sealants, almost exclusively the clear formula, and the stuff sticks like no tomorrow. Geocel also makes other polymer sealants for truck and trailer construction and I'd bet those are good, too.

[westend]

nwbearcat1998 wrote:
Is there anything wrong with the caulking job I did other then cosmetically not pleasing??

If you have the joint filled, that's all that is required. The durability may suffer if the sealant is thin but these polymer sealants are very tough.

[Wild_Card]

wowens79 wrote:
Another tip, they sell these rubber caulk tools that are like a pointed squeegee. They are great for smoothing and removing excess caulk. I've never used one with the proflex, but I've used them alot in our bathroom with silicone, and they work great. I'll be trying it with proflex on the TT this weekend, and I'll try to remember to report back.

proflex is a great caulk. I have had bad luck with clear...it just is worthless. Use Black or White. I found out the clear is the only one allowed for use in California...that should tell you something...this is on Geocells website.


However...using the plastic tools is not going to work for you. Become a master of a good controlled bead and a soapy finger to finish. Soapy finger does a much nicer job and you can clean any over caulk with mineral spirits. I have also used blue painters tape to give nice edges around stuff. You have been advised

[wowens79]

Another tip, they sell these rubber caulk tools that are like a pointed squeegee. They are great for smoothing and removing excess caulk. I've never used one with the proflex, but I've used them alot in our bathroom with silicone, and they work great. I'll be trying it with proflex on the TT this weekend, and I'll try to remember to report back.

[nwbearcat1998]

Is there anything wrong with the caulking job I did other then cosmetically not pleasing??

[westend]

If you wish to have a small, flat bead in a joint on the RV, using Proflex, cut the application tube to a small diameter. I've also warmed the cartridges on a heater vent during some cold snaps. These two processes allow a small amount of sealant to be applied in the joint. A wet finger or a small spoon will flatten the sealant after application.

[nwbearcat1998]

Yep, that's what I did. It's not very pretty but it's done.

The picture above is the after.

[Baja_Man]

bearcat....you're on the correct path...

Remove loose pieces, scrape out with dull scraper, clean, and apply ProFlex bead and be sure it gets into the gaps. I use my finger to pressure sealant into areas being caulked.

[nwbearcat1998]

This won't win any awards but it's sealed good with the proflex sealant.
I ended up finding some proflex sealant online and got it shipped much faster than expected

[2DHoop]

LVJJJ wrote:
Have used ProFlex for years but don't like that ProFlex seems to attract a lot of dirt and always looks dirty. I have switched to Sikaflex 221. It goes on smoother, lays down better and is easier to smooth out with paint-thinner-covered-finger. It's also staying put over formerly silicone areas.

Sikaflex is good stuff. Their construction sealant is great to have around the house as well.