Dark differential lube

[Blazing_Zippers]

Being the good owner that I am---I took the Ram to a shop for its oil change. I've had LOF done there before with no issues.
This time, they said that the rear differential gear oil was "dark," and that the brake fluid needed changing. The truck has just over 26,000 miles, and about half of that was towing a trailer or fifth wheel.
I'm not a mechanic, but I've never had to do either of these things. In fact, I don't recall anyone I know changing these fluids except when disassembling their vehicle. Has this shop turned into a "stealership?"
Your thoughts please.

[Cummins12V98]

No idea. No biggie to me. I service lots of things at 15k. I do tow VERY HEAVY.

[Dave_H_M]

Not sure what you mean by "are doing on the RAM"

Put another way. I cannot imagine constantly (15K miles) changing the gear lube on my ford as much as you do on the Ram. Last Ford F250 I had I got all hinky reading this board and yanked the diffy cover at 100K. The stuff that came out looked like new.

The F250 I have now will probably get the diffy serviced at 100K if i live to drive it that far. I go out each winter pulling a 10K fifth wheel. Since my curiosity is tweaked I am gonna get the book out of the Ford and update this post with what it says.

My Ford Scheduled maintenance service gives the following info:

Every 105K miles - Change rear axel fluid (Dana Axles)

Every 150K miles - Change the front and rear diffy and transfer case fluid.

Just saying (not trying to be anal) how does the Ram gear boxes go thru diffy oil that often when the other two of the big three do not?
:h

[Cummins12V98]

[Cummins12V98]

Dave H M wrote:
Cummins, again why don't you try some of the lube that Ford or GM recommends?

I cannot even imagine doing to my Ford what you are doing on the Ram.

What gives here? Just asking.

Not sure what you mean by "are doing on the RAM"

I am following the drain intervals.

Why would i use Ford or GM lube? I use AMZ/OIL 75-110 with great results compared to OE.

[Grit_dog]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
"15K is just someone spending money for no good reason."

Did you read my report? My GL was toast at 20k as it was grabbing when towing 33k combined upon take off turning.

I have not tested the AMZ/OIL SevereGear 75-110 on my truck past 20k. At 20K I had ZERO grabbing like I did with the OE GL.

Based on MY experience towing with a RAM I would NOT go past 15k on OE GL.

I have to agree with you to a point here. Yes I’d expect to have additional wear if all I was doing was towing 25klbs with a pickup truck.
I also believe in changing out “break in” fluids regardless if the mfg reccomends it or not.
I bet the next change lasts a lot longer though.
Also possible you got a not quite perfect rear differential set up.
Either way, I don’t think this is an across the board need. More of a one off occurrence I think.

And even though I tout running cheap engine oil, components with longer OCIs like diffs and trans always get top quality fluids. Mostly so I don’t feel the need to change them as often.

[ChuckSteed]

In retrospect if your rear diff is hav)no those kind of issues no amount of frequent lube oil replacement is going to lesson or fix the issue...

To expect an owner to have to replace synthetic gear oil every 15K when it costs $7 to $9 a pint is absurd...

If rig was never used for tow8ng boat and backing into water then how did water and such get in there...wonder if rig was subjected to flooding, etc...

Good luck down the road

[Dave_H_M]

Cummins, again why don't you try some of the lube that Ford or GM recommends?

I cannot even imagine doing to my Ford what you are doing on the Ram.

What gives here? Just asking.

[Cummins12V98]

"15K is just someone spending money for no good reason."

Did you read my report? My GL was toast at 20k as it was grabbing when towing 33k combined upon take off turning.

I have not tested the AMZ/OIL SevereGear 75-110 on my truck past 20k. At 20K I had ZERO grabbing like I did with the OE GL.

Based on MY experience towing with a RAM I would NOT go past 15k on OE GL.

[ChuckSteed]

6.6L DURAMAX MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE, SERVICE INTERVALS
Replace engine oil & oil filter
10,000 miles or when "change engine oil" message is displayed by the oil life monitoring system
Replace fuel filter
2001 - 2010
15,000 miles
2011 - 2016
22,500 miles or when "change fuel filter" message is displayed
Replace engine air filter
Check filter condition every oil change and replace as necessary; replace at 45,000 miles regardless
Flush engine cooling system
150,000 miles
Replace automatic transmission fluid & filters
2001 - 2011
50,000 miles (normal conditions)
25,000 miles (severe duty conditions)
2012 - 2016
Replace external filter at 45,000 mile intervals and full service at 97,500 miles under normal conditions
Perform full service (new fluid, ext & int filter) every 45,000 miles under severe duty conditions
Replace manual transmission fluid
GM advises that the ZF S6-650 6 speed manual transmission does not require service. To maintain shift quality and promote transmission life, consider replacing fluid at 60,000 mile intervals, especially if usage meets any of the severe duty conditions.
Replace transfer case fluid
2001 - 2011
50,000 miles
2012 - 2016
97,500 miles (normal conditions)
22,500 miles (severe duty conditions)
Replace front differential fluid (4x4)
Service interval not provided by GM, routine service may promote longevity. Fluid level should be checked periodically. Drain and replace differential fluid immediately if the axle is submerged in water.
Replace rear differential fluid
Service interval not provided by GM, routine service may promote longevity. Fluid level should be checked periodically. Drain and replace differential flu

GM doesn’t even give a service interval on diff gear oil... 15K is just someone spending money for no good reason.. Use Amsol synthetic severe duty gear lube and drop that 15K ****

[ksss]

Some lubes are dark colored when new.

[Bedlam]

Ron3rd wrote:
The best one they've come up lately is "cleaning and adjusting" your disc brakes for $129.00. Funny thing is I never new disc brakes had an "adjustment" after replacing them for 30 years.

If they were actually removing the calipers and cleaning the piston surfaces and slide rods, they may need to "adjust" the piston back in to the caliper to reinstall the pads. I doubt they do that, but that would be my only thought. There is the parking brake adjustment...

[Cummins12V98]

This is my report with my first rear diff change. Yes over miles but IMHO not a QUALITY GL.

The GL was toast!

[Grit_dog]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Glacier D wrote:
My 2011 Ram 3500 maintenance schedule for the rear diff. is every 15,000 miles. Had that done at a local garage and added Amsoil 75-110 Severe Gear Lube and Magtec differential cover with sight glass from Geno's Garage. Problem solved!

Good call!

The 15k is if towing/severe duty service. I mis read mine I looked at the 24k kilometers. At 20k towing combined 33k when taking off from a stop I experienced grabbing when turning. That was at 20k. I drained and had fluid analyzed it was completely shot!!! at about 24k.

Since that first change I run AMZ/OIL 75-110. I just change it at 15k along with my transfer case, fuel filters, air filter and oil/filter. Could I run it longer, YES but it's cheap and easy do do all my maintenance at one time.

Bottom line the quality of the OE lube is NOT very good.

15k? So like every oil change? (Or every 5 oil changes based on your OOCI tendencies)You guys are off your flipping rockers.... no other explanation.

[Ron3rd]

spoon059 wrote:
A couple years ago I changed the brake pads on my old truck, so I changed the fluid on my wife's car at the same time. Took her car in for her "free" service at the dealer a week later. They called her and told her that her cabin air filter was filthy and needed changing and her brake fluid was burnt and needed changing. Couple hundred dollars worth of service costs.

Well... fluid was brand new, so I knew that was bunk. The cabin air filter requires the removal of her glovebox, which was full of stuff and they obviously didn't remove to check.

I don't trust them to do anything other than follow the manufacturers maintenance schedule. Even then, I don't really trust them, but if they screw it up, they are the one's fixing it under warranty anyways. Anything that the DEALER recommends is pure profit.

Local Chevy stealership does the same thing; The $79 cabin air filter (about $10 if you do it yourself) is a favorite with them. The best one they've come up lately is "cleaning and adjusting" your disc brakes for $129.00. Funny thing is I never new disc brakes had an "adjustment" after replacing them for 30 years.