Diesel Batteries---$150-$200 . . . X2---ouch!!

[otrfun]

Yes, I was aware my truck had two batteries when I bought it, but honestly, never gave it much thought at the time. Kinda just made a mental note about the $100-$150 fuel filters, larger E-rated tires, and the 3-4 quarts of extra oil.

While helping a friend (with a diesel) shop for batteries the reality hit me---it's going to cost approx. 3X more to replace the batteries on a diesel vs. a typical 1/2 ton gasser !

Curious, how long do diesel batteries typically last? I usually get 3-5 years out of my gasser batteries.

[otrfun]

A 3.5 gallon paint bucket works perfectly. No splash and just enough room to access the drain plug without the bucket getting in the way. Or, if you don't mind driving up on a couple 2x4's to get some extra clearance, a 5 gallon Home Depot/Lowes bucket works well, too.

[Cummins12V98]

billyray50 wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

billyray50 wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

billyray50 wrote:
Thanks mike. That is different way to do it. I do have sections of clear hose for that purpose which I used on my previous 2006 truck. I found with the 2015 model that it is more difficult to gain access under front of truck on the creeper without jacking up truck. The plastic fascia or whatever one wants to call it, under bumper makes it real tight.

I go in from behind the front tires.

Exactly how I did it...Behind the tire.

I can fit my Stainless Milk Pail under the oil pan, transmission, transfer case and both filter locations for draining. It's tall enough that I don't get any splashing.

Like that pail...good idea.

It belonged to my Wife's Dad he had a small Dairy Farm many years ago. Nice to be able to use something of his..

[billyray50]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

billyray50 wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

billyray50 wrote:
Thanks mike. That is different way to do it. I do have sections of clear hose for that purpose which I used on my previous 2006 truck. I found with the 2015 model that it is more difficult to gain access under front of truck on the creeper without jacking up truck. The plastic fascia or whatever one wants to call it, under bumper makes it real tight.

I go in from behind the front tires.

Exactly how I did it...Behind the tire.

I can fit my Stainless Milk Pail under the oil pan, transmission, transfer case and both filter locations for draining. It's tall enough that I don't get any splashing.

Like that pail...good idea.

[FishOnOne]

transamz9 wrote:

FishOnOne wrote:

transamz9 wrote:
I replaced the batteries in my 2005 Ram after nine years just for peace of mind on a trip. They never gave me any trouble. I give them to my FIL and he still uses them on his tractor. They will be 12 years old in Jan. My truck is garaged though.

Who makes the batteries for Chrysler?

I'm not sure but I think Johnson Control made them at that time. There are only a handful of companies that actually make the batteries. I believe also that the different batteries for the different model vehicles are made by different suppliers. It depends on who has the contract for a particular battery. I put Walmart batteries back on it.

Thanks transom... I'm starting to look at purchasing a new set of batteries myself and I'm not sure I want to go with the Motorcraft batteries you purchase from the dealer.

[Hannibal]

Grit dog wrote:
Just like any other product you can find a deal or you can pay big bucks. Nothing magical about "diesel" batteries.
Yes the OE batteries typically are a bit higher aH rated than a single battery gasser truck, I think, but even that is not really needed save for cold weather.

The first gen Cummins Rams had one battery. They went with two for the grid heater running while the truck is started in cold weather. I believe the grid heater was used below 59*F if memory serves. Far better system than glow plugs in the GM and IH offerings.

[Cummins12V98]

billyray50 wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

billyray50 wrote:
Thanks mike. That is different way to do it. I do have sections of clear hose for that purpose which I used on my previous 2006 truck. I found with the 2015 model that it is more difficult to gain access under front of truck on the creeper without jacking up truck. The plastic fascia or whatever one wants to call it, under bumper makes it real tight.

I go in from behind the front tires.

Exactly how I did it...Behind the tire.

I can fit my Stainless Milk Pail under the oil pan, transmission, transfer case and both filter locations for draining. It's tall enough that I don't get any splashing.

[billyray50]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

billyray50 wrote:
Thanks mike. That is different way to do it. I do have sections of clear hose for that purpose which I used on my previous 2006 truck. I found with the 2015 model that it is more difficult to gain access under front of truck on the creeper without jacking up truck. The plastic fascia or whatever one wants to call it, under bumper makes it real tight.

I go in from behind the front tires.

Exactly how I did it...Behind the tire.

[Cummins12V98]

billyray50 wrote:
Thanks mike. That is different way to do it. I do have sections of clear hose for that purpose which I used on my previous 2006 truck. I found with the 2015 model that it is more difficult to gain access under front of truck on the creeper without jacking up truck. The plastic fascia or whatever one wants to call it, under bumper makes it real tight.

I go in from behind the front tires.

[Cummins12V98]

spoon059 wrote:

FishOnOne wrote:
Cummins probably removes the bed to access the fuel filter just like he removes the intake duct to access that pita oil filter. :B

Ha... that is one way to keep diesel fuel off of you!

I just buy some sections of hose (forgive me, I forget what size ID they are), and extend the drain longer and into a bucket. Open the drain valve/water separator and start to loosen the filter. All the fuel drains down the hose and into the bucket. While that is draining, go to the front filter and do the same thing.

Once the front filter starts to drain, go back to the frame mounted filter and finish removing it. Put the water sensor on to your new filter and install the new filter. Then go back to the front and finish changing that one (make sure not to pinch the o-ring gasket when you screw the lid on).

Once everything is tight, go prime your engine.

That pretty much covers it!

Extend the front hose to a bucket crack the drain valve loosen the cap and let it drain the fuel out. Close the valve remove the filter now that it's not soaked in fuel, change the O rings and drop in filter and screw on the cap. SNOKING gave me a section of hose that fits inside of the front drain hose and also over the back filters drain pipe.

The back filter can be RnR'd with a strap wrench or filter pliers. The back filter sensor can be removed with channel locks or the proper wrench from Lisle for $9.97. Lisle 34900 OEM Water Sensor Wrench. This part is easily done AFTER the filter is removed!!!

Front filter tools, 1 1/8" or 28MM 6 point 1/2" drive socket, 1/2" universal joint, 1/2" extension or extensions 12" or so and 1/2" ratchet. Sit the socket on top of the filter cap then with remaining tools connected drop the universal end as straight down as possible you will be tight to the cowl and then connect the socket. Apply steady pressure down and on the ratchet. A longer handled ratchet makes it easier.

[billyray50]

Thanks mike. That is different way to do it. I do have sections of clear hose for that purpose which I used on my previous 2006 truck. I found with the 2015 model that it is more difficult to gain access under front of truck on the creeper without jacking up truck. The plastic fascia or whatever one wants to call it, under bumper makes it real tight.

[spoon059]

FishOnOne wrote:
Cummins probably removes the bed to access the fuel filter just like he removes the intake duct to access that pita oil filter. :B

Ha... that is one way to keep diesel fuel off of you!

I just buy some sections of hose (forgive me, I forget what size ID they are), and extend the drain longer and into a bucket. Open the drain valve/water separator and start to loosen the filter. All the fuel drains down the hose and into the bucket. While that is draining, go to the front filter and do the same thing.

Once the front filter starts to drain, go back to the frame mounted filter and finish removing it. Put the water sensor on to your new filter and install the new filter. Then go back to the front and finish changing that one (make sure not to pinch the o-ring gasket when you screw the lid on).

Once everything is tight, go prime your engine.

[brulaz]

H7 Group 94R
two of them for my 2016

Think the H7 part is if you get AGM batteries? Maybe not.
Have also seen L4.

[time2roll]

transamz9 wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
Yes the OE batteries typically are a bit higher aH rated than a single battery gasser truck, I think, but even that is not really needed save for cold weather.

Especially if you have a Cummins............

What battery group size does that Cummins wear?

[cummins2014]

billyray50 wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

FishOnOne wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
"The rear fuel filter is a major pain in the butt though... "

Please explain. I have changed mine twice with no issues at all.

No need to explain when we have a video.

Ram Fuel Filter Change

There are MUCH easier ways to accomplish that task!!!

I watched this video after buying the new truck. Watched another video too regarding rear filter. Cummins12v98 I had a issue with the front filter cover being a bear to loosen from the factory regarding first front filter change. Also noticed it was little harder for my 5'9" frame to reach the front filter compared to my previous 2006 ram 5.9 CTD which I changed for 9 years. The rear was just a pain because of where it is located. Also can be messy since there is still more diesel in the canister after draining. Please show me easier ways to do this. Pics and or video would be great.

I would also like to see that easier way, granted drain it properly, but after that its just in an awkward place, not much is going to change that.

Lets see what he it comes up with .