Electric heater vs using furnace in fall?

[temccarthy1]

Need advice from experienced campers since wife and I only started this year and have camped only 10 nights due to P/T job getting in the way after retiring....We have a 2014 Keystone Bullet 285 RLS TT that is 30 ft long. Has a propane Dometic 30,000 BTU furnace that heats well and fast.. We have only camped where there is electric and plan on that being the majority of our camping. When we are camping in fall as we did in October and have chilly nights , would it be more economical to use a small electric thermostatic heater for just the 2 of us in the bedroom and not run the furnace at night until we get up in morning, or even purchase 2 heaters and use most of the time when needed and not the propane at all? I have no idea how much propane we are using to heat since we only camped 5 nights in the fall and haven't used 1 of the 2 tanks up yet.. What do you think? We will of course be paying for propane when needed but not for electric. Also, can the wiring handle 2- 1500 watt heaters -- total 3000 watts approximately which I would estimate would be enough? We are not camping when it is below freezing so that is not an issue for the tanks or water lines... no lower than 40's. Appreciate hearing from experienced TT campers..

[westend]

I am currently looking for a direct vent propane heater of some sort, having an old and cranky furnace that drains the batteries too soon.

Up here, in the Great White North, we learn fast what keeps us warm when enjoying outside recreation. There are many models of small propane-fired, vented heaters that are used. I pulled my original furnace and use a "Sportsman" heater. It is rated to 20K BTU and uses no electricity. It is vented with a 3" Class B gas duct through the ceiling. I've used the same heater in 3 different RV's.

[gdhillard]

I have used a propane stove to heat up both my camping van, and my 18 foot TT. I have a CO detector in both, with a read out of CO available. My Wave 3 in the van would bring the CO up to .40 within 30 minutes. I don't trust it at all, even though it has great reviews here. I never got the CO to register at all in the van with the Coleman stove on high, and shut the thing off due to the heat, rather than any sign of CO. In the TT, I have run a burner on high under a tea kettle, or a big pot of water, and found it heated up the trailer quickly and easily, with no CO reading on the detector. I would not run the stove while I slept, but feel comfortable heating up a two gallon pot of water, and letting the pot sit, with a lid on, over night to keep things from getting cold. I am currently looking for a direct vent propane heater of some sort, having an old and cranky furnace that drains the batteries too soon.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

Most furnaces are a one speed fan which only operates when the thermostat calls for heat.

I did replace the grill with dual window fans--and they do "pressurize" the furnace ducts which keeps my RV from freezing up the plumbing.

harley4275 wrote:
I don't know if it was mentioned here earlier, but I just read somewhere that someone put the electric heater next to the intake for the propane forced air furnace and just ran the fan on low to keep the underbelly warmish and inside warm in cold weather. no propane used and seemed like a good idea if you can keep the fan on low.

[Bigbird65]

We just completed a 3433 mile camping trip through Texas, New Mexico, Colorado, and Utah. Most of the nights the temperature was in the mid 40s. Before the trip I bought this 1500 watt heater.

We only used it on the 750 watt setting. Granted my 22' trailer is smaller than the ones most of you pull but it worked great and saved a lot of propane. We only camped where there was shore power.

[willi4nd]

Helpful thread, solved my issue anyway.

I have been going out to my TT in the evenings to "piddle" around. I have been turning the furnace to warm it up, but no matter where I set the thermostat it gets roasting hot in there really quick.

I think I am gonna try a little ceramic heater I have. The TT is small enough that it would t take too much to keep it warm.

[harley4275]

I don't know if it was mentioned here earlier, but I just read somewhere that someone put the electric heater next to the intake for the propane forced air furnace and just ran the fan on low to keep the underbelly warmish and inside warm in cold weather. no propane used and seemed like a good idea if you can keep the fan on low.

[austinjenna]

When I go camping in jan/feb I always keep my thermostat set around 60 as a backup in case my little space heater cant keep up.

Id much rather use "free" power than my propane.

Same here. Also I run a separate heavy duty extension cord through the slide to the pedestal as to not take away from the trailers power. I can run a second electric heater on low if I need to plugged into the wall outlet. I dont think the furnace has ever really kicked on doing it this way.

[CavemanCharlie]

temccarthy1 wrote:
THANKS everyone for your overwhelming support of using electric space heaters to save on propane and reduce furnace noise! I went out yesterday to Walmart and got a great deal on 2 compact ceramic cool touch heaters that have thermostat, 2 wattage settings to save amps ( 750 & 1500) in my 30 amp TT, and most importantly have a tip over switch along with an overheat switch. Not easy to find inexpensive heaters these days with the tip over switch. Tested both of them and they are quiet and put out an amazing amount of forced air heat! Best of all, they were a better price at Walmart than Amazon offered at only 18.88 each! THANKS again for all your responses!.. I love these forums to help make the right decisions to make my TT better and more economical! Much appreciated!

I agree that a tip over switch is a good safety item on electric space heaters like the ones you have . I can't believe that they are allowed to be sold without one. It is something I always look for.

[SoundGuy]

temccarthy1 wrote:
That's my plan until I get my progressive Industries electrical management device next year that will give me constant amp readings, then I'll know what my cushions are on each appliance and electronics.

SoundGuy wrote:
Certainly an EMS will provide power draw measurements but so to will an inexpensive Kill-a-Watt Meter. Rarely will an electric heater labeled as "1500 watts" actually draw anywhere near that ... I've got several and they range from ~ 950 watts to ~ 1400 watts on the highest setting. Measure what you have and you'll know, not just be guessing. 😉

temccarthy1 wrote:
Yes.. I plan to measure them with the EMS I am getting for Christmas. . The main reason for wanting the EMS rather than just the surge protector I currently have is to prevent damage to my TT systems from all the frequent low voltage situations I am reading about from Rv'ers that can wreck or shorten the life of my AC compressor, microwave and electronics.

While an EMS certainly serves a valuable role in protecting your trailer's electrical system it's ability to monitor & display various parameters is limited, particularly current draw which is only accurate to the nearest ampere ... the Kill-a-Watt's current draw resolution is in hundredths. Yes, an EMS will monitor incoming voltage but a Kill-a-Watt will also measure power in watts, power factor, and volt / amps - none of which the EMS is designed to do. Bottom line - while you're waiting for Santa invest $20 in a Kill-a-Watt that will tell you a lot more about your electrical devices than any EMS. 😉

[gmw_photos]

RVcircus wrote:
We use an electric heater when we can. I'd rather not listen to the furnace running. Last weekend there was a newer class A next to us and I thought their furnace was an idling diesel.

That was probably a heat pump. That, in my opinion is the "new noise pollution problem" in campgrounds. Most of them make more noise than a generator. Awful.

[Golfcart]

When I go camping in jan/feb I always keep my thermostat set around 60 as a backup in case my little space heater cant keep up.

Id much rather use "free" power than my propane.

[RVcircus]

We use an electric heater when we can. I'd rather not listen to the furnace running. Last weekend there was a newer class A next to us and I thought their furnace was an idling diesel.

[temccarthy1]

SoundGuy wrote:

temccarthy1 wrote:
That's my plan until I get my progressive Industries electrical management device next year that will give me constant amp readings, then I'll know what my cushions are on each appliance and electronics.

Certainly an EMS will provide power draw measurements but so to will an inexpensive Kill-a-Watt Meter. Rarely will an electric heater labeled as "1500 watts" actually draw anywhere near that ... I've got several and they range from ~ 950 watts to ~ 1400 watts on the highest setting. Measure what you have and you'll know, not just be guessing. 😉

Yes.. I plan to measure them with the EMS I am getting for Christmas. . The main reason for wanting the EMS rather than just the surge protector I currently have is to prevent damage to my TT systems from all the frequent low voltage situations I am reading about from Rv'ers that can wreck or shorten the life of my AC compressor, microwave and electronics.

[SoundGuy]

temccarthy1 wrote:
That's my plan until I get my progressive Industries electrical management device next year that will give me constant amp readings, then I'll know what my cushions are on each appliance and electronics.

Certainly an EMS will provide power draw measurements but so to will an inexpensive Kill-a-Watt Meter. Rarely will an electric heater labeled as "1500 watts" actually draw anywhere near that ... I've got several and they range from ~ 950 watts to ~ 1400 watts on the highest setting. Measure what you have and you'll know, not just be guessing. 😉

[temccarthy1]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Best to only run them on 750 watts until you upgrade the outlets.

temccarthy1 wrote:
2 compact ceramic cool touch heaters that have thermostat, 2 wattage settings to save amps ( 750 & 1500) in my 30 amp TT,

Don..I'm sure you are right.. That's my plan until I get my progressive Industries electrical management device next year that will give me constant amp readings, then I'll know what my cushions are on each appliance and electronics.