Electric heater vs using furnace in fall?

[temccarthy1]

Need advice from experienced campers since wife and I only started this year and have camped only 10 nights due to P/T job getting in the way after retiring....We have a 2014 Keystone Bullet 285 RLS TT that is 30 ft long. Has a propane Dometic 30,000 BTU furnace that heats well and fast.. We have only camped where there is electric and plan on that being the majority of our camping. When we are camping in fall as we did in October and have chilly nights , would it be more economical to use a small electric thermostatic heater for just the 2 of us in the bedroom and not run the furnace at night until we get up in morning, or even purchase 2 heaters and use most of the time when needed and not the propane at all? I have no idea how much propane we are using to heat since we only camped 5 nights in the fall and haven't used 1 of the 2 tanks up yet.. What do you think? We will of course be paying for propane when needed but not for electric. Also, can the wiring handle 2- 1500 watt heaters -- total 3000 watts approximately which I would estimate would be enough? We are not camping when it is below freezing so that is not an issue for the tanks or water lines... no lower than 40's. Appreciate hearing from experienced TT campers..

[pianotuna]

Hi,

Best to only run them on 750 watts until you upgrade the outlets.

temccarthy1 wrote:
2 compact ceramic cool touch heaters that have thermostat, 2 wattage settings to save amps ( 750 & 1500) in my 30 amp TT,

[temccarthy1]

THANKS everyone for your overwhelming support of using electric space heaters to save on propane and reduce furnace noise! I went out yesterday to Walmart and got a great deal on 2 compact ceramic cool touch heaters that have thermostat, 2 wattage settings to save amps ( 750 & 1500) in my 30 amp TT, and most importantly have a tip over switch along with an overheat switch. Not easy to find inexpensive heaters these days with the tip over switch. Tested both of them and they are quiet and put out an amazing amount of forced air heat! Best of all, they were a better price at Walmart than Amazon offered at only 18.88 each! THANKS again for all your responses!.. I love these forums to help make the right decisions to make my TT better and more economical! Much appreciated!

[Atlee]

We always use an electric space heater if electricity is available, either through a campground pedestal or deployed generators.

[Lantley]

Electric heat is my preferred option. When on 50 amp service, also my preferred option. I can run 3 oil filled heaters and the factory fireplace.
I set the LP furnace as a back up to supplement the electric if needed.
My furnace seldom comes on. I can easily go down to 20ºF with space heaters

[mtofell1]

Huntindog wrote:
As for the OPs question... Yes you can use electric heaters, and I too find the oil filled ones to be the best option... As others have said, when it gets really cold, then the furnace SHOULD be used to help keep the tanks from freezing... You can help it by using some electric heat.

I am glad that some have brought up the condensation issue, as it is far more important that what type of heat is used. And the OP being new to TTs needs to be informed.


Both of my new TTs came with warnings about this. My current one actually had a stand alone flyer to make the purchaser aware of it.

Condensation in the walls will cause delamination. How long it will take depends on many factors, but it will eventually happen, and can pretty much destroy a TT. It is a slow silent unseen TT killer.

When you have a iced drink in a glass, you get water drops forming on the outside of the glass. This water comes from the water vapor that is in the air touching the cold surface and condensing into water.

The same thing will happen inside a TT. The first sign of it is the windows fogging. When that happens, then in will take place inside the walls as well. It will take somewhat longer though as the insulation will slow it down.... How well it is insulated will determine how long it will take.... But just how long is not the important thing... What is important is that you take action to stop it from happening.

Crack some vents and windows to get some airflow and the condensation will stop. Of course this will let some cold air in..

Many including myself use a different method. I run a dehumidifier. It allows me to keep the TT sealed up tight to keep the cold air out as it removes the moisture from the air. As a side benefit, it blows out warm dehumidified air. This effect noticably cuts down on the heater run time and propane usage.
When doing high moisture producing activities such as cooking or showering, the dehumidifier cannot keep up, so some venting is still needed.

Because of the small interior volume of a TT, humidity levels can change quickly in a TT.
Your TT will become humid just from people or animals breathing. Cooking or showering will increase it faster.

When this moisture migrates thru the walls, it stops at the exterior fiberglass/filon outer skin as it cannot penetrate it. Since the skin is cold, the humid air forms water on the inside of the skin, just as it will on a cold drinks glass... But since there is luan glued to the filon, it will try to delaminate it. This is a very powerful force, that no glue is totally impervious to.

This is what causes most of the delamination problems.

All this from someone in dry Arizona. I'm going to guess you're a transplant 🙂

This is a great explanation and a great example as to why most RVs are not rated for full-time use. Bathing, cooking and just breathing generate a lot of moisture. Even a large RV has a small fraction of the cubic feet of the smallest homes. Just not enough air movement to dry out all that moisture.

[rbpru]

When I say you have to adapt it includes leaving your extension cord at home.:S

Something you just shoot yourself in the foot.:B

[temccarthy1]

Huntindog wrote:
As for the OPs question... Yes you can use electric heaters, and I too find the oil filled ones to be the best option... As others have said, when it gets really cold, then the furnace SHOULD be used to help keep the tanks from freezing... You can help it by using some electric heat.

I am glad that some have brought up the condensation issue, as it is far more important that what type of heat is used. And the OP being new to TTs needs to be informed.


Both of my new TTs came with warnings about this. My current one actually had a stand alone flyer to make the purchaser aware of it.

Condensation in the walls will cause delamination. How long it will take depends on many factors, but it will eventually happen, and can pretty much destroy a TT. It is a slow silent unseen TT killer.

When you have a iced drink in a glass, you get water drops forming on the outside of the glass. This water comes from the water vapor that is in the air touching the cold surface and condensing into water.

The same thing will happen inside a TT. The first sign of it is the windows fogging. When that happens, then in will take place inside the walls as well. It will take somewhat longer though as the insulation will slow it down.... How well it is insulated will determine how long it will take.... But just how long is not the important thing... What is important is that you take action to stop it from happening.

Crack some vents and windows to get some airflow and the condensation will stop. Of course this will let some cold air in..

Many including myself use a different method. I run a dehumidifier. It allows me to keep the TT sealed up tight to keep the cold air out as it removes the moisture from the air. As a side benefit, it blows out warm dehumidified air. This effect noticably cuts down on the heater run time and propane usage.
When doing high moisture producing activities such as cooking or showering, the dehumidifier cannot keep up, so some venting is still needed.

Because of the small interior volume of a TT, humidity levels can change quickly in a TT.
Your TT will become humid just from people or animals breathing. Cooking or showering will increase it faster.

When this moisture migrates thru the walls, it stops at the exterior fiberglass/filon outer skin as it cannot penetrate it. Since the skin is cold, the humid air forms water on the inside of the skin, just as it will on a cold drinks glass... But since there is luan glued to the filon, it will try to delaminate it. This is a very powerful force, that no glue is totally impervious to.

This is what causes most of the delamination proble



THANKS for the detailed explanation. Very important explanation of the latent damage condensation and humidity in a TT can do! much obliged!

[Huntindog]

As for the OPs question... Yes you can use electric heaters, and I too find the oil filled ones to be the best option... As others have said, when it gets really cold, then the furnace SHOULD be used to help keep the tanks from freezing... You can help it by using some electric heat.

I am glad that some have brought up the condensation issue, as it is far more important that what type of heat is used. And the OP being new to TTs needs to be informed.


Both of my new TTs came with warnings about this. My current one actually had a stand alone flyer to make the purchaser aware of it.

Condensation in the walls will cause delamination. How long it will take depends on many factors, but it will eventually happen, and can pretty much destroy a TT. It is a slow silent unseen TT killer.

When you have a iced drink in a glass, you get water drops forming on the outside of the glass. This water comes from the water vapor that is in the air touching the cold surface and condensing into water.

The same thing will happen inside a TT. The first sign of it is the windows fogging. When that happens, then in will take place inside the walls as well. It will take somewhat longer though as the insulation will slow it down.... How well it is insulated will determine how long it will take.... But just how long is not the important thing... What is important is that you take action to stop it from happening.

Crack some vents and windows to get some airflow and the condensation will stop. Of course this will let some cold air in..

Many including myself use a different method. I run a dehumidifier. It allows me to keep the TT sealed up tight to keep the cold air out as it removes the moisture from the air. As a side benefit, it blows out warm dehumidified air. This effect noticably cuts down on the heater run time and propane usage.
When doing high moisture producing activities such as cooking or showering, the dehumidifier cannot keep up, so some venting is still needed.

Because of the small interior volume of a TT, humidity levels can change quickly in a TT.
Your TT will become humid just from people or animals breathing. Cooking or showering will increase it faster.

When this moisture migrates thru the walls, it stops at the exterior fiberglass/filon outer skin as it cannot penetrate it. Since the skin is cold, the humid air forms water on the inside of the skin, just as it will on a cold drinks glass... But since there is luan glued to the filon, it will try to delaminate it. This is a very powerful force, that no glue is totally impervious to.

This is what causes most of the delamination problems.

[time2roll]

I have a 1200 watt radiator style that I have often used to reduce the furnace run time. This past summer I fixed my furnace's restricted air ducting by adding two more ducts. Will be testing next weekend with some moderate chilly weather. So the electric might be left at home unless overnight is to be 30s or below.

[Jetta03]

We use a 1500 watt electric space heater whenever we have electricity service. I agree with what other said here the propane furnace is awful. Uses fuel and battery (when off-grid), loud fan, and terribly inefficient (50-60%).

For off-grid I've had my eye on one of these for awhile though 🙂

[Chuck_thehammer]

my past trailer a 21 foot.. electric heater... as furnace was a jet plane in sound..

will find out if electric heater will help... with my 30 foot trailer.. but this one has ducted furnace under floor .. much less noise...and warm floors.
will depart for MB SC end of this month.

[legolas]

I use the electric heater. As much to eliminate the noise of the furnace fan turning on and off...very noisy. Have used the electric to keep the chill off in Flagstaff at 40 degrees in late September.

[rockhillmanor]

westend wrote:
Sometimes you have to adapt to the situation and I would rather run the electric heat than the furnace.I get that it's only two days but a bigger cord would remove a lot of skimping. Next time? 🙂
I've run 2-1500W heaters with a 100 ft. 12 ga. cord.
BTW, this reminds me to throw some extra cordage in the trailer. Thanks!

Where there is a will there is a way! :B

Sporting event one shore station for all of us.
- Extension Cords R Us. -

___ING

[westend]

rbpru wrote:
Right now I am pushing the limit on the weather; days in the 60’s and nights in the low 30’s with heavy frost.

I am at a private seminar with the closest power about 100 ft. and only a 16 ga. power cord to the shore power cable. I had expected temps in the 40’s and a closer electric hook up but this is the hand I was dealt.

So here is what we do to get by for the next two days in our 25 ft TT. The 16 ga. power cord limits our power draw.
• Keep the slide in to reduce the TT volume.
• Switch the hot water heater to gas to reduce electric draw.
• Keep shades down to reduce window heat loss.
• Use the furnace to bring the TT temp up when we return in the evening.
It takes about 15 minutes to warm the TT up.

We run the 1500 watt electric heater at the medium setting to keep from overheating the power cord .

So far so good the TT is about 58 degrees at night with the electric heat at medium, annoying but tolerable for two nights.

Sometimes you have to adapt to the situation and I would rather run the electric heat than the furnace.

I get that it's only two days but a bigger cord would remove a lot of skimping. Next time? 🙂
I've run 2-1500W heaters with a 100 ft. 12 ga. cord.
BTW, this reminds me to throw some extra cordage in the trailer. Thanks!

[rbpru]

Right now I am pushing the limit on the weather; days in the 60’s and nights in the low 30’s with heavy frost.

I am at a private seminar with the closest power about 100 ft. and only a 16 ga. power cord to the shore power cable. I had expected temps in the 40’s and a closer electric hook up but this is the hand I was dealt.

So here is what we do to get by for the next two days in our 25 ft TT. The 16 ga. power cord limits our power draw.
• Keep the slide in to reduce the TT volume.
• Switch the hot water heater to gas to reduce electric draw.
• Keep shades down to reduce window heat loss.
• Use the furnace to bring the TT temp up when we return in the evening.
It takes about 15 minutes to warm the TT up.

We run the 1500 watt electric heater at the medium setting to keep from overheating the power cord .

So far so good the TT is about 58 degrees at night with the electric heat at medium, annoying but tolerable for two nights.

Sometimes you have to adapt to the situation and I would rather run the electric heat than the furnace.