BarneyS wrote:
We did not have a problem with the electric plugs in our trailer getting warm but with all the cool weather we had down in Florida several years ago we needed a way to run our electric heater without going through the trailers electrical system. I put in a waterproof outside receptical and an inside outlet in the side of our slide out. Now we can run the electric heater or other higher usage items like toaster or frying pan without worrying about tripping the trailers breaker when we turn on the water heater or air conditioner at the same time.
Works great!
The device that I used was this one from West Marine.
Barney
Quite a simple mod.
Nice. We used a oil space heater for out Thanksgiving camping trip, I just ran a dedicated extension cord under the slide out dinette seat and out the storage door.
I love your setup as a more permanent solution.
Worked great in 20 degree weather with all 3 tent beds open (we have a hybrid) and didn't have to worry about tripping breakers in the camper.
Worth every penny of the $40 bucks the heater cost me, with a timer and a remote!
ScottG wrote:
Never had any problems with the so-called "Stab connectors" in any RV and running a space heater. Been doing so for a couple of decades and never had one get warm. They are UL and CSA rated for the full load just like normal residential outlets and there are 10's of millions of RV's using them without issue.
So I would not worry about changing the outlets, just monitor for heat like you should with any space heater.
^^^ I completely agree with this. The problem is not with these SCD "self-contained receptacles" in themselves. There's millions of them out there in mobile homes without issue in addition to being installed in RVs.
The problem is that the factories sometimes don't install them properly according to the manufacturer's directions. I've had some in 3 TTs now that only had 1/2 the internal "stab" connections on the hot and/or neutral plus I found 2 in our current TT with reversed polarity. There is a special tool for punching down the wires onto the stabs. You can use a screwdriver and/or pliers to push the wires in but you have to be very careful. The cover on the back can be a challenge to get full on also. The photo below is what I found in a previous TT and it and any downstream recepts. are only good for 7 1/2 amps. The installer clearly did not use the SCD tool. :M These recepts. are NOT for amateur wannabe electricians. Unless you pull yours out for inspection, you'll have no idea if they were correctly installed.
A real problem with electrical in RVs as I see it is that, although all electrical work must comply with the NEC and various associated standards and regulations, there is no oversight by an AHJ and there is nobody to file a complaint with if you find problems. Therefore the factories can turn out unacceptable workmanship without impunity and which in some cases can even be dangerous.
Having said the above, it is possible it's better and safer to plug a heater into an RV type recept. that is maybe the 1st or 2nd in line on a circuit. You'd need to pull all recepts. on a circuit out to figure that out tho. A heater (depending on wattage) is going to be better off on a dedicated circuit and if you're going to install a new recept., might as well go with a residential side-wired type in a box, if you have depth for the box for piece of mind. A hardwired heater would of course be best.
IMO, the SCD type receptacles are better than the common residential ones where you strip a wire and push it into a hole.
