Electric Hookups to Tow Vehicle

[SusanDallas]

I made a stupid mistake on my last trip and left the electric cord to my tow vehicle too loose. It dragged on the ground and frayed the rubber insulation on the cord. The only lights that were affected were my running lights so I continued on my trip.

Today, I took the trailer to the dealership to have it winterized and the electric cord repaired. They replaced the cord but I am concerned about the replacement cord they used. They used cord they had in stock and wired a new plug onto it but I am concerned about the quality of the replacement.

The original cord was thick like the 30 amp cord for your hookups at an RV park. The new cord and plug they installed is very thin like a 16 gauge extension cord you would buy at Wal Mart. The new plug is also very small and flimsy compared to the original one. When I questioned the repairman about it, he told me that the cord just doesn't have as much insulation as the original one but is just fine. All my lights and brakes are working but I would appreciate an expert opinion on this. Thank you

[rbpru]

For what it is worth, my molded factory plug separated from the cable jacket leaving a 1/8 inch of the colored wiring exposed between the plug and the jacket.

Another spring project. 🙂

[SusanDallas]

Thank you for recommending a plug cover. I didn't know there was such a thing. I am definitely going to get one.

[SoundGuy]

Huntindog wrote:
As far as where such a cord connects to the TT wiring. It is not far at all. All of my TTs have had these connections just beyond the A frame under the TT. IMO, this is an easier fix than wiring up a new plug. It for sure is the "right" way to do it in my eyes.

And so too have mine but I sure do like that weatherproof junction box recommended by hornet28 ... think I'll get a couple myself. 🙂

[Huntindog]

SoundGuy wrote:

Huntindog wrote:
... the plug wired to the cord is not a wheaterproof connection. The proper fix is to buy the entire heavy cord with the plug made into (moulded end)
it.

I'm sure that by "wheaterproof" connection Huntindog means a waterproof connection and to get that you don't want to just install a new Bargman plug on the existing cable but replace the entire cable with a plug that's factory molded on to the cable so it can't leak water into the plug itself. Sold everywhere.

Actually I meant weatherproof, which is close enough to waterproof. The computer was acting up this morning and I had to go to work so.... I just left it like that.

As far as where such a cord connects to the TT wiring. It is not far at all. All of my TTs have had these connections just beyond the A frame under the TT. IMO, this is an easier fix than wiring up a new plug. It for sure is the "right" way to do it in my eyes.

[SoundGuy]

SusanDallas wrote:
I went out this morning and wrapped the plug in a freezer bag since it is raining.

Short term that's OK but leaving any electrical connector wrapped in plastic for any length of time is a really poor idea as moisture inside the bag will condense to water, just what you don't want. A better solution is to cover the end of the Bargman plug with a Fastway Plug Cover.

[hornet28]

Yes on the plug guard I've got those on three trailers they are great

[Lynnmor]

Since the trailer is stored outdoors, you might want to invest in a Plug-Guard to keep the water out of the plug. No plug is water tight and the contacts will corrode. Here is one source: Plug-Guard

[hornet28]

For the do it yourselfers here a nice way to connect the trailer plug wire into the rest of the trailers wiring. I put one of these on my travel trailer when I needed to replace the cord and also have one on car trailer. It's weather proof and I have it on the back of the front cross member, so it doesn't get rained on and isn't being sprayed from the tow vehicles tires when raining.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-way-Trailer-Wire-Junction-Box-Camper-Truck-weather-proof-RV-Light-cord-plug/291482940231?hash=item43ddbcb347:g:jloAAOSwyP5Z-wqw&vxp=mtr

[D_E_Bishop]

Maybe she should have stated that she wanted the cord and if needed, the plug replaced "in kind", not with whatever they have on hand in the shop to cobble together..

It's a hard lesson to learn sometimes but the Devil is in the DETAILS. Ask anyone who hired a handyman and did not get the details in writing. This is not a criticism, it is an objective lesson.

I guess I missed the last post by Susan, she now knows what to ask for.

[beemerphile1]

The cord doesn't have to come from KZ because they didn't make the original cord. The molded plugs are available many places.

Most RV owners want to pay the lowest cost possible for repairs. That is the reason the dealer stocks bulk wire and plugs and then custom makes it to fit.

My biggest concern would be where they made the connections to the trailer. Are those connections protected and watertite?

[SusanDallas]

Thank you for all your excellent advice. The plug that was installed was one that just screws on and was not a molded on model. This concerns me since my travel trailer sits on my acreage unprotected from the elements. I went out this morning and wrapped the plug in a freezer bag since it is raining.

Thanks to your posts, I was able to talk to the dealership with a little bit of knowledge. They are going to order a replacement cord from KZ exactly like the one that was originally on it.
The manager told me that they always fix the cords with the screw on plugs.

The manager told me they would do this free of charge since I have to drive 75 miles each way back to the dealership. I told him that I was not looking for a freebie and would gladly pay the difference. He still insists on no charge which I do appreciate since I have to hitch it back up & then set it back up on my land.

The thing is, why wasn't I offered the option of a factory replacement instead of a cheap fix while I was there? I would gladly have waited for them to order a replacement cord and drove back down there. Quality does matter to me and I am willing to pay for quality repairs. I don't know how much a factory cord costs but I would have willingly paid up to $500 for the repair instead of the $44 I was charged for the repair.

Whenever I have taken a vehicle in for repairs, the service departments have always explained the repair options to me. I guess things are different with travel trailers. Another day, another lesson learned. Thank you for all your helpful advice. I have learned so much from this forum.

[Old-Biscuit]

7-way Molded Trailer Umbilical Cord

[Lynnmor]

troubledwaters wrote:
Maybe Susan is perfectly capable of doing simple things herself, but doesn't always have the time to do so. I find myself in that situation quit frequently, perfectly capable, but find it is better worth my time to have someone else do it.

Till you drag the trailer to a dealer and then go back to get it, then do it all over again to have it repaired correctly, it just might take longer than simply attaching seven wires. The point is that one must learn to do the simple things or RV'ing will be a miserable experience.

[_1nobby]

SoundGuy wrote:
waterproof connection and to get that you don't want to just install a new Bargman plug on the existing cable but replace the entire cable with a plug that's factory molded on to the cable so it can't leak water into the plug itself. Sold everywhere.

Agreed....a molded plug onto the cable is the BEST solution.

But sometimes not the easiest solution based on where ever the end of that cord snakes through the trailer.

A bargman plug, if sealed, will work just as well.
Trust me.... at the airport we don't change 300 ft of cable to replace a ground power plug that powers aircraft when on the ground. We replace the plug and seal it.