Extension Cord (need some opinions)

[Aluminum_Siding]

Hi Friends.

Here is my situation.

Camping at a music festival with CAT Generators. Paying for a 30 amp hook up. My TT is 30 amp. 1 AC unit. My TT is newer (2012)

Although it may be closer they state I will need at least 75 feet to get to the junction.

I use a high end surge/voltage drop protector (the one that's like $300) and it plugs in externally. I cannot run the 25 feet of the TT cord cause then the surge protector would be out on the lawn somewhere between the extension and my TT cord. I'm obviously not going to put my surge protector at the CAT junction 75 feet away either. Therefor I need 75 feet of extension from the TT plug/surge protector.

If I buy a 50 ft and a 25 ft (or even 2 50 ft) 30 amp extensions will there be an issue running the AC? With the TT cord length this will put me 100-125 feet from the power source. I do have a surge protector that will trip should volts/amps drop therefor protecting the AC motor.

I don't want to pay the extra money for the 30 AMP spot if it wont run the AC from that distance.

Oh yeah,,, only the fridge will be on and a couple of LED's at night. No other amps.
Thanks a bunch Mike.

[gmw_photos]

Bob Landry wrote:
Be sure that the 10/3 is AWG and not SAE. SAE is 12 to 18 percent smaller and will not carry as much load as AWG

Bob,
Thanks for pointing that out. I did not know that.
The one I have ( that I posted the link to at lowe's ) says AWG on it.

EDIT... I edited my above post.

[Bob_Landry]

Be sure that the 10/3 is AWG and not SAE. SAE is 12 to 18 percent smaller and will not carry as much load as AWG

[gmw_photos]

If you change your mind and decide you want to use a regular extension cord, here is a choice:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_67702-66906-UTP711935_0__?productId=3191731

I have one of these, and keep it for around the barn use, etc, and I have run my trailer on it, with the 15.5K BTU A/C running on a 20 amp breaker. Voltage at the camper remains at 118VAC with the A/C compressor running, so I call it good.

EDIT.....CORRECTION......the cord I linked to above is not in fact the cord I have. I went and looked at mine, and see that it is Ridgid brand. I got it at Home Depot, not lowe's. The following is the one I have ( 10/3 AWG, 100 feet ) Sorry for the confusion.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-100-ft-10-3-Extension-Cord-AW62628/100661447

If I am not mistaken, to be rated at 20A, it has to have a t-blade male end, where a 15A rated plug is what we normally see in regular household outlets.
Bob, jump in here and correct me if I'm wrong on that. Thanks, and again, sorry I confused the issue.

[Aluminum_Siding]

Just want to say thanks for all the awesome opinions and advice. From all the reading I think I'm going to go with two 50 foot 30 amp extensions like some posted. If the junction is near i'll only need one. If it's the full 75 feet (that they say I may need) I'll use both. My Shurepro will trip if the amps/volts drop but hopefully not. A dry camp spot is $300 less so if the AC wont run the whole thing will be a waste. My gut tells me I should be fine. I'm going to test it out at a 30 amp pedestal next time we camp too. I also like the recommendation of locking the extension cords to each other. I always lock up my surge protector with a padlock and cable but this is a great Idea to keep $60 cables from growing legs.

Again thanks for all the advice.

[myredracer]

tenbear wrote:
Here is a little food for thought.

100 feet of #10 wire with a current of 30 Amps will have a voltage drop of 6 volts. # 12 would drop 9.5 v and #14 would drop 15 v. This is in addition to any drops due to the connectors. Of course you may not be using 30 A. Half the current, half the drop.

Yes true, but that's at a continuous/steady load and you also need to consider that the momentary inrush current of an AC unit is up around 60 amps (or maybe more depending on size and brand) and the resulting voltage drop can be too much for the AC to start. If things are marginal though, that's where a hard start cap or the Dometic smartstart can help. Also depends on the voltage at the supply end and for the CAT generator (I'm assuming a larger one), what size it is and what the voltage regulation is like.

[tenbear]

Here is a little food for thought.

100 feet of #10 wire with a current of 30 Amps will have a voltage drop of 6 volts. # 12 would drop 9.5 v and #14 would drop 15 v. This is in addition to any drops due to the connectors. Of course you may not be using 30 A. Half the current, half the drop.

[DiskDoctr]

At 75ft and lots of others doing the same thing? May want to add two padlocks with a steel cable between them, one attached to each cable on either side of any connections.

Prevents theft and unplugging, both accidental and otherwise.

[BubbaChris]

Aluminum Siding wrote:

Oh yeah,,, only the fridge will be on and a couple of LED's at night. No other amps.

If this is accurate, then virtually anything would do. However his converter is also likely to be trying to charge the battery too. I'd go with 100' if 12 gauge and have the surge protection next to the TT.

[ChooChooMan74]

If you need that length, harbor freight has a 10-3 extension cords up to 100 feet. It is amazing what you can make out of them.

[myredracer]

I would not go less than #10 gauge. The problem you will run into is the momentary inrush current which can be quite high. If the wire size is too small, the AC may not start. You could consider installing a hard start capacitor or the Dometic Smartstart (expensive) but probably not worth it for a one time event.

Here is one thread for example that talks about AC unit inrush current. http://www.accuride.com/Woodworking/Product/Details.asp?ProductID=63&CatID=&ProductName=Woodworking-...

If you have a detachable shore power cord, you can connect two cords together with a generator adapter which are inexpensive. We've got a spare 30 amp cord as a spare and if we use the adapter, we can make 50'.

[time2roll]

MorMJS wrote:
This is a bit off topic, But is a 12G cord sufficiant for plugging into when I park my trailer at home to prep for camping?

Yes
Watch voltage stays above 108 if running the air.

[nomad297]

Aluminum Siding wrote:

nomad297 wrote:
I use three of these 50' 10/3 extension cords to hookup at my house. I put my EMS on the cord attached to the trailer just in case, but I have noticed no voltage drop or heat.

Bruce

I like this. I'd get two and be set. You run the AC?

I run it all the time.

Bruce

[westend]

voltage drop calculator

I get 117.62 V at load, at 20 A, 75' distance, two conductors, 12AWG

118.13 at load, at 25 A, 75' distance, two conductors, 10 AWG

If I had plans to use the wire for a few events, I might choose a yellow cord with good connectors, even though it cost more. Visibility might be important. Otherwise, a run of Romex direct bury and two boxes/connectors is probably cheaper.

[chr_]

If it were me, I'd buy the 100' roll of 10-3 and build my own if you are planning to do this every year. No connections along the path from the hub to your trailer where drunks and kids and possibly puddles from rain can screw up your connection and you can safely tuck your surge protector under your rig. 10-3 Romex or SOW cable will be pretty well protected from people tramping on it as well.

Your safety and that of others is what you should be thinking about. If you are not running the roof air, then a 100' 12-3 extension cord with the adapter will be all you need.

I have a home Built 75' ft cable with 10-3 and an RV outlet mounted in a two gang metal box with metal cover that I hang on my bumper when I need extra length to connect to something far far away. At home, I connect that to a 20A ckt and can run the roof air for days in 110* heat.