โJul-26-2014 03:08 PM
โJul-28-2014 08:16 AM
EnochLight wrote:
I hadn't even thought of trying a cardboard baffle mod - that's a great idea. I'm kind of worried that a fire risk would be introduced though, since the burner jet's exhaust stack can be pretty hot and it would be merely inches away from the top baffle. Would wrapping cardboard in aluminum tape eliminate this risk?
โJul-28-2014 07:27 AM
CincyGus wrote:
Many, many popup camper owners do this frig mod with great success. I did it on one I had when I first graduated from tent camping. You have done a wonderful job in designing your's and I think you will be amazed at the improvement once you get proper "baffling" to eliminate the dead air spaces.
The secret is forcing the air through the cooling fins and eliminating anyplace for the air to go between your input ducts and the output ducts other than through them. Many have used different materials to block off, dead air spaces. I liked cardboard in my situation.
I cut a piece of cardboard from a large box I had, shaped it to fit the space I needed to block of above the frig (very similarly to your situation. I then wrapped it with aluminum tape. This is very thin but gives it a waterproof and clean surface. I then used small washers to act as grommets to run small self tapping screws through to attach it. Finally, going around the seams with gorilla tape to seal everything up.
I ended up improving my frig's performance to the point I could no longer run it at it's max setting without it being in the neighborhood of freezing my contents.
again, the secret is to force every bit of air coming in from the bottom (cooler air temps) to the higher top vent (hotter air temps) without letting it escape somewhere in the compartment. Come as close as you can to doing this and you will significantly improve your mods performance and that of your frig, I promise you.
p.s. Two other suggestions. 1) Build a switch into the system so you can turn it off on the cooler camping trips. If you don't, you will have to adjust your cooling setting all the time based on outside air temps. If you build the switch in, you can just turn it on when it's hot or your not in a shaded campsite. 2) Put a fan in there with a led light on it so you can tell when it's on. Ashamed to say a forgot a few times and left the switch on even after bring it home, draining my battery. Once I installed the fan with the led light, I never forgot to turn it off for more than a day because it glowed a nice blue at me at night if I did.
Best of luck.
โJul-28-2014 07:17 AM
โJul-28-2014 07:05 AM
pfidahospud wrote:
Nice writeup! I really appreciate you sharing your results, even if they weren't as good as hoped. I have a very similar side-venting setup and improved the dead space issue using regular fiberglass insulation. It does keep the counter top above the fridge MUCH cooler, so that's got to help some
bob_nestor wrote:
Dometic actually did some engineering on refrigerator cooling improvements and they have a design called the Innovation Ventilator System. They recommend that RV manufacturers follow those designs when installing a refrigerator, especially in areas where top venting isn't possible. Unfortunately many (most?) RV manufacturers have chosen to ignore those designs.
I also did a science fair project on the Domentic installed in my Class B following Dometic's design guidelines. I also tried a few other things and learned quite a bit about what limits performance on these refrigerators. If anyone is interested, my findings can be found at:
Chillin' with Bob
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Close off that dead air space...it is killing you cooling abilities.
That dead air space should be completely blocked off.
AtomicChicken wrote:
You'd need to block off the remainder of the vent where the fans are installed to prevent the fans from pulling air in from that top vent where they are mounted and then immediately discharging it.
flash82 wrote:
Besides closing off the dead space, have you tried it without your "directional chutes"?
'tiredTeacher wrote:
One more thought. It is more difficult to PULL air across those coils than it is to BLOW the air. On my Pop up, I put the fan under the coil and blew the air up and out, drawing from the lower vent. I also added a baffle to separate the lower compartment from the upper.
Teach
beemerphile1 wrote:
More important than those fans is to bend some sheet metal to force all air flow through the condenser coils rather than around them and also eliminate the dead air space.
beemerphile1 wrote:
Make sure to send a thank you letter to your RV manufacturer for screwing their customers with a lousy design and poor installation.
proxim2020 wrote:
Just a thought, you could move up to 120mm fans. They'll have just about the same draw, but more cfm.
โJul-28-2014 06:46 AM
โJul-28-2014 06:28 AM
โJul-28-2014 05:21 AM
โJul-27-2014 07:21 PM
โJul-27-2014 03:18 PM
โJul-27-2014 07:55 AM
โJul-27-2014 07:33 AM
pfidahospud wrote:CavemanCharlie wrote:
Is there anyway to add a roof vent to your TT?
At least on my trailer, that's not really an option, though it's a good suggestion for natural air flow. The vent pipe would have to go through a counter top, partially block a window, then go through a cabinet. I'm pretty sure the wife would not find that aesthetically pleasing ๐
Another thing I've tried, but haven't really proven that it works, is to leave the top vent cover off. For me it's just a couple of tabs that rotate to unlock, not secured with screws like the OP. Just seems like that top vent cover captures a lot of heat coming off the coils. Maybe I should try taking off both the bottom and upper covers when it's hot to aid in circulation?
โJul-27-2014 06:44 AM
CavemanCharlie wrote:
Is there anyway to add a roof vent to your TT?
โJul-26-2014 09:36 PM
โJul-26-2014 08:47 PM
โJul-26-2014 06:00 PM