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Fridge cooling fan mod

EnochLight
Explorer
Explorer
Hello everyone,

I thought I'd share my experience with building and installing an exterior fan mod for my Dometic RM2351 fridge in our travel trailer. I'm doing this in the hopes that it will keep my fridge at a safe temp when the vent side is facing the sun and it's 85F-90F outside (a common temperature range for our trips in the Michigan/Ohio area).

From the factory, it cools great when it's in the shade and it's not more than 70F outside. But once the day starts to heat up, the interior temps have gotten as high as the low 50's - clearly not a safe place to keep food!

Anyway, I looked at various after market 3rd party fan kits already sold, such as the solar version from Camco and a few others. I felt like I could do something much more powerful at a much lower cost with computer case fans, so here's what I did...

For starters, here's the exterior of my TT's vent-side, where the rear of the fridge is located:



Unfortunately, there appears to be some dead space above the fridge, as I discovered when I pulled the panels off. It looks kind of like this:



Anyway, what I intended to build was a 4-fan array supported by two aluminum L-brackets that I got at Home Depot. They would direct air out of the top vent like this:



The computer case fans are standard 80mm, push about 30+ CFM, and draw about .15A each on the 12 volt rail. I decided to do a test run by plugging them into the 120v line (sharing the same plug as the fridge) by using a 12 volt Molex adapter (available at Newegg and/or Amazon, etc). Here's the fans:



So I began to take the panel off by unscrewing it and carefully cutting the silicon seal around the edge. Must be careful - I accidentally gouged out my paint on the top in one small area! ๐Ÿ˜ž







With the panel removed, I discovered that the evaporator cooling fins were placed a lot higher than I originally thought. I was planning to mount the fans pointing up and using directional chute vents to direct the air out at a curved 90 degree angle, but due to space constraints I had to mount them in the front blowing air straight out. I measured about 22" width, cut my aluminum L-brackets to length, and hand assembled them for a trial fit:









I began by setting the fans in the L-Brackets and drilling a marker hole with a bit much smaller than the diameter of the case fans. Then I set them aside and drilled a hole large enough to get a #10 32x1/2" round head screw through the L-Bracket loosely and torquing them down into the fan frames to hold the whole assembly together. One by one I screwed them together - the end result is quite sturdy:









I was going to solder everything together, but decided to use a European-style terminal strip (from RadioShack) so that I could easily replace the fans if one went bad. Initially I just wired them all into one termination point as I didn't want to go through the hassle of doing them one by one for my initial "dry run":





The finished array turned out like this (though I will eventually wire each one into its own terminus in the strip, tidy up the wires, etc, should it work OK:



I mounted it right in front of the fins, with the directional chutes all blowing out and slightly down in an effort to curtail moisture from falling down into the fans when it rains hard. You can see in the second pic that the fan array sits right on top of the cooling fins:





I let it run last night starting at about 8:30 PM, when it was about 82F outside. When I got up this morning, it was a chilly 35F inside:



But unfortunately, when it hit around 2:15 PM today I checked again. The temperature had climbed to 42F, which is unsafe for proper food storage. Hmmmm....



That said, it was about 84F today and sunny. Normally my fridge temp would be climbing closer to the high 40's/low 50's, so it does appear to be aiding in cooling - just not as good as I had hoped. Next I will try filling the dead air space above the fridge, and then adding a second interior fan blowing off of the inside cooling fins.

Right now I utilize one of those battery operated Camco fridge fans, but it doesn't really blow air onto the inside cooling fins.

So... all in all... I'm a little disappointed, but still hopeful. Total cost for building this was under $70 in parts, and I thought that pushing almost 120 CFM in such a small area would definitely solve my issue.... but it didn't.

Oh and, as far as noise - they are barely audible running at full RPM. If I do end up keeping this on and hard wiring it into my 12-volt system, I'll likely just put an on/off switch on the rear when I wire it up. That said... getting power to my interior fan idea is a whole other problem. No internal light or power source, so I'll have to do some drilling into my fridge wall - which scares me.
2013 Gulfstream Amerilite 16BHC Travel Trailer pulled with a 2008 Ford Escape Limited
49 REPLIES 49

_tiredTeacher
Explorer II
Explorer II
EnochLight wrote:
I hadn't even thought of trying a cardboard baffle mod - that's a great idea. I'm kind of worried that a fire risk would be introduced though, since the burner jet's exhaust stack can be pretty hot and it would be merely inches away from the top baffle. Would wrapping cardboard in aluminum tape eliminate this risk?

Four years ago, I wrapped my cardboard baffle in aluminum foil. Not a problem with it so far.(Did I mention that was 4 years ago?) ๐Ÿ™‚

Teach
Wright and Penny
2010 Tundra 4X4
2014 Rockwood 2604WS
"Life is a cruel teacher. She gives the test first; the lesson then follows."

EnochLight
Explorer
Explorer
CincyGus wrote:
Many, many popup camper owners do this frig mod with great success. I did it on one I had when I first graduated from tent camping. You have done a wonderful job in designing your's and I think you will be amazed at the improvement once you get proper "baffling" to eliminate the dead air spaces.

The secret is forcing the air through the cooling fins and eliminating anyplace for the air to go between your input ducts and the output ducts other than through them. Many have used different materials to block off, dead air spaces. I liked cardboard in my situation.

I cut a piece of cardboard from a large box I had, shaped it to fit the space I needed to block of above the frig (very similarly to your situation. I then wrapped it with aluminum tape. This is very thin but gives it a waterproof and clean surface. I then used small washers to act as grommets to run small self tapping screws through to attach it. Finally, going around the seams with gorilla tape to seal everything up.

I ended up improving my frig's performance to the point I could no longer run it at it's max setting without it being in the neighborhood of freezing my contents.

again, the secret is to force every bit of air coming in from the bottom (cooler air temps) to the higher top vent (hotter air temps) without letting it escape somewhere in the compartment. Come as close as you can to doing this and you will significantly improve your mods performance and that of your frig, I promise you.

p.s. Two other suggestions. 1) Build a switch into the system so you can turn it off on the cooler camping trips. If you don't, you will have to adjust your cooling setting all the time based on outside air temps. If you build the switch in, you can just turn it on when it's hot or your not in a shaded campsite. 2) Put a fan in there with a led light on it so you can tell when it's on. Ashamed to say a forgot a few times and left the switch on even after bring it home, draining my battery. Once I installed the fan with the led light, I never forgot to turn it off for more than a day because it glowed a nice blue at me at night if I did.

Best of luck.


I hadn't even thought of trying a cardboard baffle mod - that's a great idea. I'm kind of worried that a fire risk would be introduced though, since the burner jet's exhaust stack can be pretty hot and it would be merely inches away from the top baffle. Would wrapping cardboard in aluminum tape eliminate this risk?

I may try this just to experiment with proper baffle placement. If I can determine a successful mod, then I can replace the cardboard with aluminum sheet metal baffles in time. Running it off of electric, as opposed to propane, the burner stack isn't hot anyway so.... If I can get this to work on electric using your cardboard method, then I know it would work on propane.

Thanks for the tip!
2013 Gulfstream Amerilite 16BHC Travel Trailer pulled with a 2008 Ford Escape Limited

CincyGus
Explorer II
Explorer II
Many, many popup camper owners do this frig mod with great success. I did it on one I had when I first graduated from tent camping. You have done a wonderful job in designing your's and I think you will be amazed at the improvement once you get proper "baffling" to eliminate the dead air spaces.

The secret is forcing the air through the cooling fins and eliminating anyplace for the air to go between your input ducts and the output ducts other than through them. Many have used different materials to block off, dead air spaces. I liked cardboard in my situation.

I cut a piece of cardboard from a large box I had, shaped it to fit the space I needed to block of above the frig (very similarly to your situation. I then wrapped it with aluminum tape. This is very thin but gives it a waterproof and clean surface. I then used small washers to act as grommets to run small self tapping screws through to attach it. Finally, going around the seams with gorilla tape to seal everything up.

I ended up improving my frig's performance to the point I could no longer run it at it's max setting without it being in the neighborhood of freezing my contents.

again, the secret is to force every bit of air coming in from the bottom (cooler air temps) to the higher top vent (hotter air temps) without letting it escape somewhere in the compartment. Come as close as you can to doing this and you will significantly improve your mods performance and that of your frig, I promise you.

p.s. Two other suggestions. 1) Build a switch into the system so you can turn it off on the cooler camping trips. If you don't, you will have to adjust your cooling setting all the time based on outside air temps. If you build the switch in, you can just turn it on when it's hot or your not in a shaded campsite. 2) Put a fan in there with a led light on it so you can tell when it's on. Ashamed to say a forgot a few times and left the switch on even after bring it home, draining my battery. Once I installed the fan with the led light, I never forgot to turn it off for more than a day because it glowed a nice blue at me at night if I did.

Best of luck.
2015 GMC 2500 Denali Crewcab 4x4
2019 Forest River Wolfpack 23pack15

Hope your travels are safe and the friendships made camping are lasting.

EnochLight
Explorer
Explorer
To everyone - thanks for chiming in and for your advice!

pfidahospud wrote:
Nice writeup! I really appreciate you sharing your results, even if they weren't as good as hoped. I have a very similar side-venting setup and improved the dead space issue using regular fiberglass insulation. It does keep the counter top above the fridge MUCH cooler, so that's got to help some


Thanks! Yeah that's a great idea. I'm going to go by Home Depot and look at insulation options and plan to pack that space with something of that sort. I prefer to not use fiberglass, as I don't like the risk of getting it all over my arms/hands. ๐Ÿ™‚

bob_nestor wrote:
Dometic actually did some engineering on refrigerator cooling improvements and they have a design called the Innovation Ventilator System. They recommend that RV manufacturers follow those designs when installing a refrigerator, especially in areas where top venting isn't possible. Unfortunately many (most?) RV manufacturers have chosen to ignore those designs.

I also did a science fair project on the Domentic installed in my Class B following Dometic's design guidelines. I also tried a few other things and learned quite a bit about what limits performance on these refrigerators. If anyone is interested, my findings can be found at:

Chillin' with Bob


Thanks very much Bob - that was very helpful!

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Close off that dead air space...it is killing you cooling abilities.

That dead air space should be completely blocked off.


AtomicChicken wrote:
You'd need to block off the remainder of the vent where the fans are installed to prevent the fans from pulling air in from that top vent where they are mounted and then immediately discharging it.


Thanks. I also plan to install a piece of sheet metal on the top, as prescribed by bob_nestor via Dometic's Innovation Ventilator System guidelines. Why Gulfstream (the manufacturer) didn't do this is beyond logical, and was clearly to cut costs. There should be a law against idiotic design choices like this!

flash82 wrote:
Besides closing off the dead space, have you tried it without your "directional chutes"?


I have not, but I'm not sure that would help at all. Right now the directional chutes direct the air directly out of the top vent and exhaust hot air away from the entire system. I may try it in conjunction with adding a top sheet metal baffle, though.

'tiredTeacher wrote:
One more thought. It is more difficult to PULL air across those coils than it is to BLOW the air. On my Pop up, I put the fan under the coil and blew the air up and out, drawing from the lower vent. I also added a baffle to separate the lower compartment from the upper.

Teach


Ideally, this is what I wanted to do - but there's just no room to install the fans in that position. ๐Ÿ˜ž

beemerphile1 wrote:
More important than those fans is to bend some sheet metal to force all air flow through the condenser coils rather than around them and also eliminate the dead air space.


Yes, planning to install some sheet metal baffles to aid in this.

beemerphile1 wrote:
Make sure to send a thank you letter to your RV manufacturer for screwing their customers with a lousy design and poor installation.


LOL! I most certainly am. The unfortunate thing is that I only realized this as a real problem 3 months after my warranty expired, so they won't address it. That said, the dealer likely would address if I made enough noise, but honestly... once I factor in the cost of gas for me to tow it to my dealer, the loss of time, etc... it's easier for me to just do this myself.

proxim2020 wrote:
Just a thought, you could move up to 120mm fans. They'll have just about the same draw, but more cfm.


I've considered this. Thing is, I already had two of the 80mm fans laying around and adding the other two cost me $16. But with my current 80mm fan array, they're pushing ~120 CFM! I can't see how increasing this would help at this point. I think I just need to remove the dead space, add sheet metal baffles to directly the air, and say a few Hail Marys, throw salt over my shoulder, and roll the magic 8-Ball for this to work at this point. ๐Ÿ™‚
2013 Gulfstream Amerilite 16BHC Travel Trailer pulled with a 2008 Ford Escape Limited

Community Alumni
Not applicable
Just a thought, you could move up to 120mm fans. They'll have just about the same draw, but more cfm.

_tiredTeacher
Explorer II
Explorer II
One more thought. It is more difficult to PULL air across those coils than it is to BLOW the air. On my Pop up, I put the fan under the coil and blew the air up and out, drawing from the lower vent. I also added a baffle to separate the lower compartment from the upper.

Teach
Wright and Penny
2010 Tundra 4X4
2014 Rockwood 2604WS
"Life is a cruel teacher. She gives the test first; the lesson then follows."

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
More important than those fans is to bend some sheet metal to force all air flow through the condenser coils rather than around them and also eliminate the dead air space.

Make sure to send a thank you letter to your RV manufacturer for screwing their customers with a lousy design and poor installation.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

flash82
Explorer
Explorer
Besides closing off the dead space, have you tried it without your "directional chutes"?

nm1oqrz
Explorer
Explorer
Hello all. On my airstream TT, being it has a curved side wall, the coils at the bottom are almost 6 inches away from the wall at the bottom input vent and about an inch or so at the top roof vent. I did what Enochlight suggested about 15 years ago after talking to a dometic service rep. The alum sheet was bent at about a 45 degree angle upwards and was in far enough to be about 1 inch from the coils and was attached to the inside wall at the upper edge of the lower vent. Even without a fan that made a world of difference.
Happy camping nm1oqrz

AtomicChicken
Explorer
Explorer
You'd need to block off the remainder of the vent where the fans are installed to prevent the fans from pulling air in from that top vent where they are mounted and then immediately discharging it.
2007 F-150
2006 Sun Valley RoadRunner 240BH
Prodigy P2 / EAZ-Lift WDH

CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Explorer III
pfidahospud wrote:
CavemanCharlie wrote:
Is there anyway to add a roof vent to your TT?

At least on my trailer, that's not really an option, though it's a good suggestion for natural air flow. The vent pipe would have to go through a counter top, partially block a window, then go through a cabinet. I'm pretty sure the wife would not find that aesthetically pleasing ๐Ÿ™‚

Another thing I've tried, but haven't really proven that it works, is to leave the top vent cover off. For me it's just a couple of tabs that rotate to unlock, not secured with screws like the OP. Just seems like that top vent cover captures a lot of heat coming off the coils. Maybe I should try taking off both the bottom and upper covers when it's hot to aid in circulation?


Maybe removing the both would help. Could you possibly build a framework and replace the covers with screen? Then you would not have to remove them all the time.

pfidahospud
Explorer
Explorer
CavemanCharlie wrote:
Is there anyway to add a roof vent to your TT?

At least on my trailer, that's not really an option, though it's a good suggestion for natural air flow. The vent pipe would have to go through a counter top, partially block a window, then go through a cabinet. I'm pretty sure the wife would not find that aesthetically pleasing ๐Ÿ™‚

Another thing I've tried, but haven't really proven that it works, is to leave the top vent cover off. For me it's just a couple of tabs that rotate to unlock, not secured with screws like the OP. Just seems like that top vent cover captures a lot of heat coming off the coils. Maybe I should try taking off both the bottom and upper covers when it's hot to aid in circulation?

CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Explorer III
I love what you have done. Your very handy and thanks for the very nice write up and the good post!

Is there anyway to add a roof vent to your TT? Even if it's a small one? Like say a piece of 3-4 inch PVC pipe? I don't know if this would help but, I wonder if that along with your modifications would do the trick. The roof vent would get the "stack effect" started and once you got the air moving through the bottom of the fridge then your fans would be able to pull the hot air out .

I have no idea really. I'm just bouncing ideas off of you and all of the other member to see what you think.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Close off that dead air space...it is killing you cooling abilities.

That dead air space should be completely blocked off.

Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

emonkemeier
Explorer
Explorer
We had similar problems with our Dometic refer. We checked the installation manual and found several items not done to the install.
First, the space above the fridge box should not be there. Second,
a curved piece of sheet metal above the condenser should be installed to
direct the hot air out. Third, the space between the outside wall and
the coils should be about 1". If not, a baffle should be installed above the lower louvers. We did these improvements, and now get 35-38 degrees
inside the fridge on 85 plus degree days.
Hope this helps.
http://americanrvcompany.com/assets/images/AmericanaInstallationOperation.pdf
Pages 4 and 5 show this.
Ed
2012 Ram 2500 Crew Cab
2012 Cruiser RV Viewfinder 24SD