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Fun Finder is letting me down

ADK_Camper
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 2012 Fun Finder. To be fair it has been very trouble free since I bought it in 2011. But I have had two problems surface in two days. They may not be all that serious, but I just don't think we owners should excuse manufactures' carelessness and choice of inferior quality components.

The first problem is a failure of one of the ball valves on the water heater bypass. I went to change their positions when preparing to use the water heater for the first time this season when one of the valve stems broke. It's now permamently in the wrong position to obtain hot water from the tank. Now these valves only change position twice per year. I calculated that they have been "turned" exactly eight times since the trailer was new. I don't care how cheap a component is; it should last longer than eight cycles

The second problem is the failure of one of the LED marker lights. These LED lights are supposed to be rugged and last for thousands and thousands of hours. They probably would, but some careless worker actually installed one of mine upside down; it filled with water and no longer works. When I removed the cover on the bottom it was clearly stamped "TOP" A weep hole that should have been on the bottom was on the top. It admitted water which had no way to exit.
27 REPLIES 27

profdant139
Explorer II
Explorer II
Your complaints are legitimate! Have you talked to the dealer? Do you have an extended warranty?

By the way, we have owned two Fun Finders (one used, the second one new) and we love them. They are not perfect. The company has been very cooperative when there is a small problem.

If you want perfect, I think that Airstreams are better made -- much, much more expensive.
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
Our trips -- pix and text
About our trailer
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single list."

skripo
Explorer
Explorer
Buying an RV is really about Selecting the least worst one. Unfortunately quality is so variable within a brand that brands don't mean anything either.

They have no competition.
2015 Fun Finder 242 BDS

NHDad
Explorer
Explorer
It's quite the industry when you point out that something so preventable was installed incorrectly and that is followed by 3 pages of jealous people in the same hobby telling you to pound sand and count your blessings.

dspencer
Explorer
Explorer
I'm sorry to disagree with you but I think you have done very well. It doesn't matter if its entry level or a high end, 3 years old and no problem. You have nothing to complain about in my opinion.

skripo
Explorer
Explorer
Fun Finder are top of the line in my opinion. I visited over 100 trailers and they all looked so cheap from materials to component. The Fun Finder was competitively priced but had every single option imaginable.

I love mine and would buy another in second.
2015 Fun Finder 242 BDS

GMandJM
Explorer
Explorer
tatest wrote:
Just wait 'til the seams start leaking and the walls rot. I think you are doing pretty well for buying rock bottom on the price scale. I've seen a lot more go bad, more quickly, for some of the members in our RV club.


I wouldn't consider any of Cruiser RV's products "rock bottom on the price scale". Having owned a View Finder, wouldn't consider their products at the bottom of the quality scale either.
G-half can always find a way to do things upside-down, inside-out or backward.
It's his Super Power!

Community Alumni
Not applicable
tatest wrote:
Just wait 'til the seams start leaking and the walls rot. I think you are doing pretty well for buying rock bottom on the price scale. I've seen a lot more go bad, more quickly, for some of the members in our RV club.

What would make you think that the seams will start leaking and the walls will rot? Normal maintenance on any rv is required regardless of it's price scale.

dan-nickie
Explorer
Explorer
BooHoo I feel so sorry for you.
Dan and Nickie
2014 Forest River Berkshire 390RB

tatest
Explorer II
Explorer II
Just wait 'til the seams start leaking and the walls rot. I think you are doing pretty well for buying rock bottom on the price scale. I've seen a lot more go bad, more quickly, for some of the members in our RV club.
Tom Test
Itasca Spirit 29B

colliehauler
Explorer III
Explorer III
PackerBacker wrote:
chr$ wrote:
PackerBacker wrote:
Just curious, I wondering why there is more than one bypass valve for the hw tank. I've owned many rv's and have never seen that before.


Three valves are needed to properly bypass the heater. The one in the middle needs to be opened and the other two closed. this routes the water past the heater. If there is only one, say in the middle, the tank would still be connected.

If there was one on, say the output or input only, then the water would not flow at all. This scenario would be a "shutoff" valve only. That is probably what you had. A shutoff so you could drain it, perhaps.

The whole three valve setup seems to be something the mfg's are giving us so we don't have to add them ourselves. Also, if one mfg starts doing it, they all soon follow.

Can't remember beyond either our 5th or our HR motorhome but just like our current TT, I only ever had one valve to turn off to avoid refilling the hw heater with anti-freeze.

We use our rv typically 8-9 months a year and I end up winterizing multiple times. I dump the hw tank then turn off the input valve to it and then pump the anti-freeze through the system. I've never had anti-freeze go into the tank or water when 'summerizing' until the valve is turned back to allow flow.

... Eric
Some use a check and a three way valve.

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
If that is all you have go wrong then you are one lucky camper. And don't even consider blaming the manufacturer - your RV has held up better than 99% of them and you should be thrilled with their quality.
Buy a new marker light and valve. You'll be into it for less than $50.
Then go camping.

Community Alumni
Not applicable
chr$ wrote:
PackerBacker wrote:
Just curious, I wondering why there is more than one bypass valve for the hw tank. I've owned many rv's and have never seen that before.


Three valves are needed to properly bypass the heater. The one in the middle needs to be opened and the other two closed. this routes the water past the heater. If there is only one, say in the middle, the tank would still be connected.

If there was one on, say the output or input only, then the water would not flow at all. This scenario would be a "shutoff" valve only. That is probably what you had. A shutoff so you could drain it, perhaps.

The whole three valve setup seems to be something the mfg's are giving us so we don't have to add them ourselves. Also, if one mfg starts doing it, they all soon follow.

Can't remember beyond either our 5th or our HR motorhome but just like our current TT, I only ever had one valve to turn off to avoid refilling the hw heater with anti-freeze.

We use our rv typically 8-9 months a year and I end up winterizing multiple times. I dump the hw tank then turn off the input valve to it and then pump the anti-freeze through the system. I've never had anti-freeze go into the tank or water when 'summerizing' until the valve is turned back to allow flow.

... Eric

GMandJM
Explorer
Explorer
Having only two minor problems in 2+ years is amazing.

We found that Cruiser is one of those companies that really stands behind its products. If you called them, they might cut you a break on the part you need. Heck, if you tell them how much you love your camper, they might even comp you.
G-half can always find a way to do things upside-down, inside-out or backward.
It's his Super Power!

chr_
Explorer
Explorer
PackerBacker wrote:
Just curious, I wondering why there is more than one bypass valve for the hw tank. I've owned many rv's and have never seen that before.


Three valves are needed to properly bypass the heater. The one in the middle needs to be opened and the other two closed. this routes the water past the heater. If there is only one, say in the middle, the tank would still be connected.

If there was one on, say the output or input only, then the water would not flow at all. This scenario would be a "shutoff" valve only. That is probably what you had. A shutoff so you could drain it, perhaps.

The whole three valve setup seems to be something the mfg's are giving us so we don't have to add them ourselves. Also, if one mfg starts doing it, they all soon follow.
-CHR$
1996 Safari Sahara Edition 35' Diesel Pusher. Just getting the Solar stuff started.