Help identify bearings parts

[alexey75]

I'm looking to repack the bearings of our TT. I would like to buy in advance some parts like seals, bearings, washer erc.

How can I identify what are the existing parts before I dissemble it?

The only thing that I was able to see, is that I have Dexter 4400 lbs axle.

[Gdetrailer]

wnjj wrote:

alexey75 wrote:

wnjj wrote:

alexey75 wrote:
Probably it's a stupid question, is there a need to remove/re-install the race?

Only if you are replacing the bearing.

Sorry, not sure I got you. In my case I would like to grease the bearing, there is no need to remove the race?

If you remove, grease and reinstall the same bearing you can leave the race in there. The race and bearing wear together like a matched pair. If you ever replace the bearing with a brand new one, you'll want to install the new race. For routine bearing repacking you do not need to remove the race.

^^^THIS^^^

If bearing and race are not rusted, scored, damaged or wornout past adjustments you can just remove the old grease and repack with fresh grease.

No need to replace the bearings and races everytime you pull apart, only if you see some sort of wear damage.

The inside grease seal is pretty much the only item that will not be salvageable to reuse (although I have been able to remove and reuse them a couple of times if I take the time to gently remove them as some have just enough metal lip you can get under to pry out without bending them).

[alexey75]

Great, thank you for all the tips!

[wnjj]

alexey75 wrote:

wnjj wrote:

alexey75 wrote:
Probably it's a stupid question, is there a need to remove/re-install the race?

Only if you are replacing the bearing.

Sorry, not sure I got you. In my case I would like to grease the bearing, there is no need to remove the race?

If you remove, grease and reinstall the same bearing you can leave the race in there. The race and bearing wear together like a matched pair. If you ever replace the bearing with a brand new one, you'll want to install the new race. For routine bearing repacking you do not need to remove the race.

[time2roll]

Very standard parts. If the kid at the parts store looks dumbfounded and goes to a book.... wave the old man over and with one look he will walk back and get what you need.

[alexey75]

wnjj wrote:

alexey75 wrote:
Probably it's a stupid question, is there a need to remove/re-install the race?

Only if you are replacing the bearing.

Sorry, not sure I got you. In my case I would like to grease the bearing, there is no need to remove the race?

[alexey75]

Lynnmor wrote:

alexey75 wrote:

How about universal bearing packer?

With that type of bearing packer you are limited to only grease that comes in a cartridge. I like to use the thicker grease that comes in a can and is made just for wheel bearings. For example:

Timken Grease

I bought this one: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-wheel-bearing-and-chassis-grease-0280421p.html

The only thing it's not saying it's for high temperature.
It's saying: Works effectively in application temperatures between -23°C (-9°F) and 163°C (325°F)
Is it good enough?

[Lynnmor]

alexey75 wrote:

How about universal bearing packer?

With that type of bearing packer you are limited to only grease that comes in a cartridge. I like to use the thicker grease that comes in a can and is made just for wheel bearings. For example:

Timken Grease

[wnjj]

alexey75 wrote:
Probably it's a stupid question, is there a need to remove/re-install the race?

Only if you are replacing the bearing.

[alexey75]

Probably it's a stupid question, is there a need to remove/re-install the race?

[alexey75]

CharlesinGA wrote:
Dexter 4100-6000 axle catalog

A 4400 lb axle hub uses (PDF page 5 of 16 or p48 at the bottom of the page.)

Inner bearing cone (bearing) L68149
Inner bearing cup (race) L68111

Outer bearing cup (race) LM67010
Outer bearing cone (bearing) LM67048

The inner bearing and race are available from Timken as a set and known simply as SET17
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tmk-set17

The outer bearing and race are available from Timken as a set and known simply as SET6
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tmk-set6

The seal is a Dexter 010-019 but is found under the National/Timken number 473336 and is a spring loaded double lip seal
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tmk-473336

If you are doing tandem axles and want to replace all of the bearings, order everything plus some grease, bearing packer, etc from Summit and get it over $99 for free shipping. They have the best prices I have found and you will be astounded at how fast they get the stuff delivered.

I prefer a Gearwrench 2775D bearing packer or a Lisle 34550 bearing packer, I own both and they work equally as well.

Lisle 34550 bearing packer from Summit for $19.00. Cheaper than Amazon.

You need about a 2 lb ball peen hammer and a 12 inch or so steel drift to get the old races out plus a couple of pieces of 4x4 wood.

You need a bearing race driver set but you can usually get a loaner set from an auto parts store that has a tool loaner program.

Charles

Thanks Charles for all the info 🙂
How about universal bearing packer?

[alexey75]

Lynnmor wrote:

alexey75 wrote:
Thank you guys. I will buy some parts in advance and will go to replace just in case it wont fit.
Are you replacing seals and washers every year or just when needed?

Every time you pull the rear bearing out to properly clean, inspect and service it, the seal will be destroyed. If you have the cotter pin style hub, the cotter pin should be replaced. I never had an issue with a washer.

Most bearings available will be made in China and the quality is suspect. If you do need bearings, I strongly suggest that you use Timken brand, I have seen Chinese junk fail rapidly.

Great, thank you for the tip!

[alexey75]

Grit dog wrote:

alexey75 wrote:
Thank you guys. I will buy some parts in advance and will go to replace just in case it wont fit.
Are you replacing seals and washers every year or just when needed?

No need to replace anything “yearly.”
If you’re pulling bearings to repack, you’ll need a new seal.
Idk what a “washer” is. No replaceable washer I’m aware of.
How many miles and why do you feel bearings need replaced?
(Other than a lot of times if I have grease or axles all apart I throw new bearings at it, but I also never disassemble to re grease.)

I don't know how many miles. The guy who sold it, wasn't be able to tell us how much it was in use.
I would like to be prepared for the worst case scenario, don't want to drive to city in case I will need some part.

[alexey75]

JIMNLIN wrote:
Washers ??
Guess Ive never heard of the washer needing replaced. Just the grease seal and bearing sets.
I gotta' ask if you have ever changed out a set of trailer bearings. You need the right tools for driving/pressing out the bearing races and then driving/pressing the new races back in. Install the new race or removing the old ruined bearing race incorrectly can ruin the hub.
The grease seal is soft and can't damage the hub if it going in a bit crooked. Bearing races are harder than the hub and can remove material if done improperly.

I R&R my tandem RV trailer axle bearings/brakes/all suspension parts each spring. That way I know they will last all summer till time to winterize. The trailer in my sig has over 140k miles and replaced the seals three times since '97. I hand grease the bearing and never use the zerks on any of my trailers bearings.

Well.. We wanted to buy a trailer for years, and just got one last summer. So I'm pretty new to TV and TT world. This is 2017 model, and I'm not sure how well it was serviced before.

About the tools, I've watched some video where they use seal puller, in some some other videos they hammer it with piece of wood... What tools should I have?
I don't want to buy unnecessary tools, but on another hand don't want to be stucked.

[Grit_dog]

wnjj wrote:
A poor man’s bearing race driver is the old race with the outside ground down to make a loose fit.

And a hammer and screw driver/cold chisel/punch will drive them out.
No special tools needed although I generally can find the right size socket to use as a driving tool. If needed.
Generally use a wood block on top of the race to drive down flush and then finish it off with one of the above.