HELP PLEASE... Hitch and extension ?

[Miguel951]

Hello and thank you in advance for any input/ clarity you can provide. I have a 2003 F-250 W/ a 2K LB (dry) truck camper. I need a 3' extenion to be able to tow my 12' flatbed single-axle trailer and RZR XP41000 weighing around 3-3.5K LBS (guesstimate)

Currently, I have a factory 2" V5 hitch, max weight of 5K LBS/ 500 LBS TW or 12.5 LBS/1,250 LBS W/ weight distribution hitch. I do have a weight distribution hitch from my old toy hauler BTW and think I will be using it. I also have airbags and a sway bar in the rear (stock sway bar in front). I have no idea what the tongue weight is.

I want to keep this price conscious, wondering if I should just go with a 2" 36" extenion and make sure it has the chains and all that good stuff or if I should completely replace the hitch for a 2.5 or a dual hitch with the cross bar? I want to do it right and safe but not over the top if I dont have to. Any input would be appreciated.

[Miguel951]

[Miguel951]

[Miguel951]

jimh406- Thank you for your response and link to include pictures. I agree I need to determine length, and good call on getting a 2.5"-3" hitch. tongue weight is what it is in this scenario as the rzr barely fits. Thanks again

[Miguel951]

Let me give this another shot. I can see how having all the details could help in providing the right direction. my apologies there.

Goal: For truck to be able to carry camper, tow trailer w/ rzr behind.

Plan: Best case scenario- (If needed) 2.5” hitch with 24” (from pin hole to pin hole) Curt Extension Bar- specs: 6K max/ 600 lbs TW regular or 8K max/800 TW W/ WD hitch. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00537ESCQ/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1. and run an Easy lift V5 weight distribution hitch (12” long from pinhole to ball).

Truck:
2003 F-250 4X4 V10, crew cab, 6.75’ bed.
Specs: GVWR 8,800lbs. Front GAWR= 4400 lbs and Rear GAWR= 6,084 W/LT235/85R16E Tires and rim. 2’ OEM Hitch V5 (W/ WDH 12,500 max/ 1,250 TW W/O WDH 5000 max/ 500 TW)

Upgrades:
overload spring (stock)
rear firestone airbags (drill into frame type)
1 3/8” rear sway bar
Tires-Firestone transforce HT (LT275/70R18) on 2022 OEM rims. Load range E (Max load 3,640 lbs @80 PSI) (which is what I run them at)
Real-time pressure/ heat tire sensors
planned Upgrades:
Wedge under overload spring
lower point of contact for overload bumpers

Camper:
2003 Elkhorn LT 9D
Specs: 2,070 LBS, W/136L of H20, 20lbs propane tank, fridge. No bottom bumper. Exterior measurements (10’ bottom, 17’ top, 96’ wide, 90” tall)
*NOTES: CG seems to be in front of axle (freshwater tanks, fridge, LP, Battery, water heater.

Trailer and RZR
12’ x 77’ flatbed trailer, Single axle, w/ elec brakes, hand jack 10” from ball receiver.
Xp1k4 Turbo. Loaded with the front end first, the motor in back.
According to this video, tongue weight is 600 lbs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltMgL4t6N1I)
I expect the trailer and rzr to weigh 3.5K LBS but that's a guestimate.

Worth noting:
I’ve heard the recommendation that some of the trailer can go under the camper and that the hitch extension doesn't necessarily need to stick past the camper. the thing to note is that the trailer jack and handle is 10” from the ball receiver and stick up high enough that it could hit the tailgate. I can consider removing and buying a smaller side frame jack if this solves some problems.

Camper sticks out 28” from the Hitch receiver.

I agree I need to get the camper wieghed.

[jimh406]

You can use this site to post pictures. http://photoposting.is-great.net/?i=1

I agree that you need to determine how long your hitch/ball mount really needs to be. A few things that people haven't mentioned.

1. Your hitch is 20 years old. Maybe it is fine, but maybe it is not. I'd personally look into an aftermarket hitch or OEM takeoff that is a 2.5 or 3. I believe the 2003 F350s had an option for 2.5s which are a lot stronger than a 2. Also, long 2.5s are more commonly available.
2. The tongue weight is variable depending on how you load the SxS on the trailer and where the axle is.
3. You "could" extend the trailer tongue and not extend the hitch. That creates other possible issues.
4. A few companies make extended ball mounts as well. Your total length of hitch extension/ball mount is important, but you can make up the difference with making one longer/shorter.

If you want to wing it, that's up to you. But if you want to be more accurate, get some measurements and weigh the combination. If needed, you could take the trailer loaded to a weigh scale without the TC. You may be very close to perfect, or way off. You won't know until you check everything.

Fwiw, plenty of people have been shocked how much their rigs weigh and that counts all types of RVs.

[mkirsch]

Miguel951 wrote:
Man you guys are relentless here.

"Trust me I know what I'm doing," is not an acceptable answer here. Really, if you know what you're doing then why even ask? People want to see SPECIFICS so that we can all be on the same page. Being vague about what you have only serves to frustrate the people that you want help from AND elicits less-favorable, aka "unhelpful," responses.

If you want helpful responses you need to post helpful information and cooperate in the process, not speak vagaries as if your camping hobby is a state secret.

Why is the brand and model of your camper a secret? It's very relevant to the conversation. Why are the actual ratings of the tires a secret? They're very relevant to the conversation.

[3_tons]

Miguel951 wrote:
Lol, right. I know the tire rating and max load w/ what psi is on the wheel wall. Man you guys are relentless here. Ok, well thanks to all those who provided real value and help with well articulated points and questions that start working toward the right solution. Good bye to the answers that were not helpful

Here’s what I’m going to do. The truck and camper ride and handle great first of all. I have zero concern of the front end being too lite now or once fully set up (though I will heavily monitor). I don’t care that I have to load the camper on with the tailgate down (I don’t feel or see any real overload or stress on it). going above my trucks total/combined weight rating is not the ultimate determining factor for me. I know the factors that go into creating that number and I know what I have done to fix or raise those ratings (but I will obviously have respect for them).

If I decide to set up for a trailer, I will weight the tongue weight, I will either get the 2.5” hitch in the biggest class I can get with an extension receiver or the dual hitch w/truss extension that come with the chains on the sides to reinforce extension. I can consider the hitch not extending past the camper. I will measure the trailer and see where the hitch Jack handle will/would hit and see from there. I’ll try a weight distribution hitch to increase tongue capacity and maybe toss some of that tongue weight up front.

Trial and error has always been my best teacher - best of luck 🙂

3 tons

[Grit_dog]

Well, your post above is good to hear and why I left an aire of “it may work just fine” in my responses. Until now, you hadn’t posted anything that even alluded to the fact that you’re satisfied with how your camper hauls. And it could easily be the opposite of what you just stated.
I will add, the paranoia about tailgates and TCs is somewhat unfounded by some folks. It’s situational for sure.
But I do agree with the direction you’re headed for hitch receivers. One other thing to consider if you don’t go with a dual tube truss like a Tork Lift, is the total amount of sag at the end of the extension. The longer you go, the more the slop in the hitch connections and truck ride height exaggerate that and could leave you potentially with the end of the receiver tube a bit too low for practical use. Less of a concern if your truck is 4wd.

[Miguel951]

Lol, right. I know the tire rating and max load w/ what psi is on the wheel wall. Man you guys are relentless here. Ok, well thanks to all those who provided real value and help with well articulated points and questions that start working toward the right solution. Good bye to the answers that were not helpful

Here’s what I’m going to do. The truck and camper ride and handle great first of all. I have zero concern of the front end being too lite now or once fully set up (though I will heavily monitor). I don’t care that I have to load the camper on with the tailgate down (I don’t feel or see any real overload or stress on it). going above my trucks total/combined weight rating is not the ultimate determining factor for me. I know the factors that go into creating that number and I know what I have done to fix or raise those ratings (but I will obviously have respect for them).

If I decide to set up for a trailer, I will weight the tongue weight, I will either get the 2.5” hitch in the biggest class I can get with an extension receiver or the dual hitch w/truss extension that come with the chains on the sides to reinforce extension. I can consider the hitch not extending past the camper. I will measure the trailer and see where the hitch Jack handle will/would hit and see from there. I’ll try a weight distribution hitch to increase tongue capacity and maybe toss some of that tongue weight up front.

[ticki2]

Pray tell , what in the world are “Firestone rated tires”,rated for what ? BTW the carrying capacity of the tire is printed on the side of the tire .

[Bedlam]

Miguel951 wrote:
Bottom outside length of the camper is 10’ top is 17’. I mentioned this was made for a 8’ bed or a 6’ bed with the tailgate down. I have a 6.75’ bed. Dry weight is listed as 2k. There’s no bottom part of camper below tailgate. 28” from truck bumper to bottom of camper.

Campers that are built for short bed applications typically have a CG 2' from the front wall by placing heavier items forward. Most of these campers do not exceed 9' length to keep proper CG.

You are putting too much weight aft of the rear axle and the also adding additional hitch weight on an extension which just leverages even more weight off your front end. This setup will result in unpredictable handling.

[3_tons]

Miguel951 wrote:
As for airbags not helping to distribute weight. I think they do. They are sold for truck campers to help with light steering wheel, fix your lights from blinding others and to restore stopping power.

Perhaps it’s not yet evident but since you asked, your plan is riddled with patches and weak links…JMHO

3 tons

[Geo_Boy]

Have you weighed your truck/camper? I don’t believe a 10’ floor 17’ overall length truck camper weighs 2k. You will find that the camper is closer to 3k+ lbs. ready to travel and your truck is grossly overloaded. Having the tailgate down doesn’t make your short bed truck a long bed truck. Adding any trailer is just adding to your overloaded truck.

[valhalla360]

Miguel951 wrote:
As for airbags not helping to distribute weight. I think they do. They are sold for truck campers to help with light steering wheel, fix your lights from blinding others and to restore stopping power.

I would stay away from anyone trying to sell them for weight distribution.

They can help with lights because the rear axle isn't squatting by 4-6inches not because they reduce weight on the rear axle.

The only way they might help with steering is if you are so overloaded that the suspension is bouncing uncontrollably. Of course, that's just a bandaid as you would still be overloading.

[Bedlam]

Air bags will help rear squat and point your heights the right direction but do not transfer weight other than the slight geometry change.