Help with gas/ignition on fridge

[saintsfanfl]

Got my 12V power issue fixed so thank you all for that help. My next trouble shooting issue is the fridge.

I have a Dometic Americana RM2652. I was not getting gas to the fridge but when I would turn it on I would hear a loud click followed by a series of smaller clicks. I assume all those small clicks were the ignition attempts from the 12V power. I figured out the gas issue and now I have gas going back there. I can light the stove burners and the oven pilot. The problem now with the fridge is that I get the loud click but no longer the series of smaller clicks.

Any ideas?

Thank you!

[saintsfanfl]

I got it working. I did not see an easy way to take the cover off but I can figure that out later since it is working. I used compressed air to blow everything. I then took off the electrode that sparks and very lightly sanded it. After that it ignited at the first attempt. I let the fridge run all night and it was cold this morning. I shut it off because I am not yet 100% sure that the condensation line isn't leaking.

Apparently the multiple clicks is not normal but it isn't doing it anymore so for now I am good.

Thank you for all the help and suggestions. I am learning fast. Now it is on to the next item. Hot water heater.

[harley4275]

dumb question , but is the little gas shut of valve behind the fridge turned on? May look like a small straight screwdriver bolt.

[CavemanCharlie]

LIKE2BUILD wrote:

saintsfanfl wrote:
I don't think so because it still goes through the cycle of retrying every 2 min and then it times out and the check light comes on.

First, check the flame sensor. On most RV fridges it's also part of the igniter. I don't know your exact specs, but you'll want to be sure the sensor part is clean (a little scotch brite does the trick) and that it is the correct distance from the flame.

Once all of that is done try re-lighting fridge and watch the igniter while you have the cover open. If the multiple clicks go away it means the flame sensor was not sending the correct resistance back to the control board so the programming in the board assumed there was no flame and was turning off the gas.

Now, if you've done all that and the constant clicking persists.....you're probably looking at replacing the control board. I forgot which brand of fridge I had but it had the very same symptoms you describe. I cleaned and adjusted the sensor which helped for a while, but eventually the gas would not stay lit. I finally tracked it down to a problem with the control board which required replacement. It's a fairly common problem but with a fairly pricey solution. If I recall correctly, I think I searched Amazon and found a seller of refurb'd control boards.

KJ

You need to actually look at the flame to see if it is lighting. In my situation the flame lit but, the control board would not recognize that the flame was lit . Then it would shut off , and try again. As you said it will try 3 times and then give up.

I tried to clean and adjust everything and then I ended up buying a new control board.

I recommend that you check out a "Dinosaur Board" . They are replacement parts that are better then then original. They do not sell directly on-line; you have to find a dealer. The dealer I went through retied so I can not recommend one. The dinosaur board is not that expensive.

[Boon_Docker]

Sounds like a thermocouple malfunction. If the thermocouple is defective it will shut off the gas supply to the burner within a few seconds. The board will sense that and try a re-lit, which will take just one click of the igniter. Thermocouple doesn't sense the heat again and the board shuts everything down again.

[stickdog]

You may want to check out the burner it can get blocked by debris rust flakes from the flue I used an old toothbrush which worked for me. Just be careful you don't knock the igniter out of alinement.

[cbshoestring]

Old-Biscuit wrote:


Once again.......A 'News Report' with OUT any NEWS (information, facts etc) provided

I would rather they report what they know, without filling the page with a bunch of conjecture.

Man lighting fridge, wife hears explosion--man yelling, she rushes into trailer. Both injured, trailer a total loss. We can speculate the gas built up prior to the attempt to light...we can guess that some other flammable substance then caught the trailer on fire (judging by the picture)....BUT IT IS ALL JUST A GUESS.

The article reports the facts...a follow up article could fill in the gaps. That follow-up won't happen, because the why is not important to most people...Important part was EXPLOSION, FIRE, HURT, etc... not the WHY.

[LIKE2BUILD]

saintsfanfl wrote:
I don't think so because it still goes through the cycle of retrying every 2 min and then it times out and the check light comes on.

First, check the flame sensor. On most RV fridges it's also part of the igniter. I don't know your exact specs, but you'll want to be sure the sensor part is clean (a little scotch brite does the trick) and that it is the correct distance from the flame.

Once all of that is done try re-lighting fridge and watch the igniter while you have the cover open. If the multiple clicks go away it means the flame sensor was not sending the correct resistance back to the control board so the programming in the board assumed there was no flame and was turning off the gas.

Now, if you've done all that and the constant clicking persists.....you're probably looking at replacing the control board. I forgot which brand of fridge I had but it had the very same symptoms you describe. I cleaned and adjusted the sensor which helped for a while, but eventually the gas would not stay lit. I finally tracked it down to a problem with the control board which required replacement. It's a fairly common problem but with a fairly pricey solution. If I recall correctly, I think I searched Amazon and found a seller of refurb'd control boards.

KJ

[Old-Biscuit]

cbshoestring wrote:
Whatever you do, don't try to start the fridge the way THIS GUY did. :E

I hope they both are doing well....have a speedy recovery.

Once again.......A 'News Report' with OUT any NEWS (information, facts etc) provided

[cbshoestring]

Whatever you do, don't try to start the fridge the way THIS GUY did. :E

I hope they both are doing well....have a speedy recovery.

[saintsfanfl]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Should be a 3A automotive blade type fuse for the DC circuit.....but if it was blown you would not have any panel lights etc.

(5A glass fuse is for the 120V AC electric element)

Check the spark electrode is centered over burner slots, has a 3/16" - 1/8" spark gap and that it is not 'tracking' to ground (cracked ceramic, bad wires etc)

Thanks. Will look at it this evening.

[Old-Biscuit]

Should be a 3A automotive blade type fuse for the DC circuit.....but if it was blown you would not have any panel lights etc.

(5A glass fuse is for the 120V AC electric element)

Check the spark electrode is centered over burner slots, has a 3/16" - 1/8" spark gap and that it is not 'tracking' to ground (cracked ceramic, bad wires etc)

[saintsfanfl]

downtheroad wrote:
Maybe it just lit?
Look in the burner tube and see if there is a flame.

I don't think so because it still goes through the cycle of retrying every 2 min and then it times out and the check light comes on. Same thing as before but now there are no small clicks happening. It's frustrating because I know before I just didn't have gas but now there should be gas but it isn't trying to light. I am going to trouble shoot the 12V power to that spot tonight. I think there is a fuse on the back of the fridge.

[downtheroad]

Maybe it just lit?
Look in the burner tube and see if there is a flame.